cockpit panels

Rocky · Post by **Rocky** » Dec 9th, '08, 00:15

Hi guys, I need to replace the rear cockpit panel (sides are O.K.) and was wondering what material that is and were I get it? This is the rear inside section of cockpit that looks/feels cosmetic , no structural. Any thoughts?
Rocky.

Whaler1777 · Post by **Whaler1777** » Dec 9th, '08, 01:02

Pete Fallon · Post by **Pete Fallon** » Dec 9th, '08, 07:11

Rocky,
The transom panel is longer than the side panels, around 106''. When I had my boat building company, my glass guys layed up gel coated 3/8'' core matt panels, you have to have at least a 10' flat layup table. I attached fiberglass U channels to the back side for spacers to get rid of bowing in when you lean against them with your knees. I've also seen the panels made of PVC foam core board, Starboard(it's heavyand yellows over time) and Formica faced plywood like the originals.
Pete

randall · Post by **randall** » Dec 9th, '08, 08:14

if i had to do it now....azak ...no contest.....and it holds paint great so you can get creative......or just leave it white...strong ,light, impervious to water.

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Dec 9th, '08, 08:21

acrylic is another choice, it comes in thin panels that are easy to install and remove.

Dug · Post by **Dug** » Dec 9th, '08, 08:38

I think AZAK may be really similar to Kallite, made by Kal Wall corporation in NH. It is the dimpled fiberglass panelling you see at HD etc. It comes in various sizes and thicknesses, and is very workable, paintable, sandable, etc.

That is what I used and my only regret is that I didn't go thicker. However it is very durable.

I'm happy with it.

Buju · Post by **Buju** » Dec 9th, '08, 08:52

--hijack alert-- sorry...

Dug, we ever gonna get to see your teak slats on the cabin walls of Alchemy? Come onnnnnnn, don't leave a fellow teakophile hangin.

Rocky · Post by **Rocky** » Dec 9th, '08, 09:42

Looks like AZAK has majority vote! Thanks guys. Just need to find more than a 4x8 sheet . TAP plastics we have on west coast here will try.
Rocky.

Bill G. · Post by **Bill G.** » Dec 9th, '08, 10:11

Hey guys where could I buy AZAK I'm in N.J.?

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Dec 9th, '08, 10:28

Does anyone have a link to a source of Azek or similar (PVC) panels? All I can find locally is trim moulding and boards up to about 7 1/2" width.

I read somewhere (Capt Pat's Building Tips comment?), the dimpled thin sheet stuff available in the Lowes and HDs of the world is fiberglass. I am wondering if it makes sense to try to laminate two of these together? I would like to have a smooth side show, so it would mean having at least one dimpled side as one of the inner faces.

Bill G... I can get Azek or a substitute in trim and board form at my local Home Depot or Lowes building supply houses. It is known by several names.. I suggest you ask for the "PVC imitation wood" or something similar. Most of the guys in the lumber section of these stores down here look like a deer in the headlights if you ask for "PVC lumber".

Buju · Post by **Buju** » Dec 9th, '08, 10:33

Hey guys where could I buy AZAK I'm in N.J.?

here ya go Bill:
http://www.azek.com/whereToBuy.php

Rocky,
I'd go with 1/4" divinycel, laminated with glass on the rear & formica on the facing side...you can join(glass) shorter pieces together.
But I've never worked with Azek either... I'm just not crazy about any of those "composite lumber" products.

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Dec 9th, '08, 12:46

this is why acrylic is a great choice, it comes longer then 8', and there is no need for a heavier thicker panel.

I dont even remember how old craig's acrylic is, I believe its over 10 years old though.

Buju · Post by **Buju** » Dec 9th, '08, 13:06

this is why acrylic is a great choice, it comes longer then 8', and there is no need for a heavier thicker panel.

Sounds interesting and like its a great choice, but what exactly do you mean by acrylic?
Acrylic is a really broad term just refering to acrylonitriles, or various acryl compounds, acrylic resins, etc...

Do you have a product name, or a source, or any more info?

randall · Post by **randall** » Dec 9th, '08, 16:42

the beauty of azak is you dont have to do anything.....cut and fit...or you could laminate formica for a hard finish....but i didnt on my little side covers.....no real use yet but it is so easy to work with .....and totally impervious. i think it comes in 10 foot lengths, 4 foot wide.

its that little vertical cover by the gas fill

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Dec 9th, '08, 17:49

azek comes up to 4'x12' ----1/2,3/4,11/4, used by professionals only a bayliner owner would even think of going to hd for anything that he intents to keep.
put old piece over scribe cut but make one change ;at box built around scubber exit frame around entire box then apply 3m 4200.use as a toe kick an also increase (funnel effect) flow to scubber.should take 20minutes with piece left over to cut in half for bottom pieces in companion way under hatch covers 54" each.

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Dec 9th, '08, 21:47

After searching the Azek distributor link posted above I found a stocking distributor 7 miles from my house. I bought a 4x8 sheet of 3/8" for $77.25.. they also stock 3/4" for $110.50.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Dec 9th, '08, 22:01

Bob

Sorry to ask you this but what is a scubber? I am trying to figure out how you set it up.

Buju · Post by **Buju** » Dec 9th, '08, 22:11

I think Capt.Bob gets a little ahead of himself when typing, at times...

Scupper would be my guess??

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Dec 9th, '08, 22:28

thank you buju!

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Dec 9th, '08, 22:58

ok i will try this one more time.first of all we puchase a 4'x10' piece of 3/8" or 1/2" azak because the transon cockpit panel is 9'5" so you want to make it in one piece.now look at the scuppers .they have a small opening leading to the actual scupper on the outside of the stern.what you what to do is cut out the transum cockpit panel to match the size of the actual box bertram made of marine plywood.now traced this "box" on the old panel cut out and lay this panel on the new azak. we attach the new azak to the wood rail inside the gunnel with ss parker screws but the bottom we lay a bead of 3m 4200 on the face of the box and make a waterproof seal along the cockpit floor this will eliminate the teak strip along the cockpit floor as randall point out in his photograph.i hope i have not lost anybody! ok so now you have tnis left over 2' x 10 piece.you can use this to replace the rotten wood panel that is directly under the engine hatch facing the companion way if you install from bulkhead to bulkhead it will be 54" long so you can get both sides out of the 2'x10' leftover.make sure to put a 45degee cut at the top of these pieces to match the closing part of the engine hatch and a vertical piece in front screwd to bulkhead so this panel cannot fall in toward engine. rear part of panel also has a 1"x 11/2" vertical piece to prevent panel from moving in the outside of panel is hel by the step now when you work on engine lift hatch and put straight up to remove panel NO SCREWS!!!

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Dec 9th, '08, 23:07

Bob

Sorry but now its clear. Be patient, I am a little thick.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Dec 9th, '08, 23:28

tony brain farts are common at 62years old and i make the mistake of thinking everybody does this every day i am wrong and wil be more patient in the future.i also should have told every before hand that my intention were to eliminate that troublesome teak strip that borders the cockpit floor and make a clean joint at the floor with no maint. 3m-4200 is totally uv resistance and a perfect match to azak brand pvc board no screws needed.

Rocky · Post by **Rocky** » Dec 10th, '08, 01:07

O.K., so you's guys are in agreement I get the AZAK for the rear panel, right? Just want to be clear! Also, inside the cabin the hatches are warped and need replacing(plywood). Would this material be good for hatches one would walk on if the thickness is enough?

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Dec 10th, '08, 08:43

Bob- just to clarify, 4200 is NOT UV resistant, neiter is 5200.

The off-white color of a bertram will hide this at first but as the sealant gets older it will yellow further. If someone was also to use teak and get teak cleaner on the 4200 it will turn even more as it is not resistant to teak cleaners.

We never use 4200 or 5200 as a finish bead, its always best to use a different sealant, sikaflex makes great UV resistant sealants that have the same strength as 4200 and 5200.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Dec 10th, '08, 09:16

robbie that should have been 3m 4000 uv.uv resistance and will not yellow i do not use 3m 4200 for anything!
not on the subject but related.the toe holes in the cockpit panel i mention above are essential for big game fishing.shark,big eye,and bluefin tuna the wireman put both feet into scupper cut in panel and this adds tremendous leverage,the gaff man is on his right and will use the toe holes when sinking the flying gaff.a 200 pound plus mako gets crazy after a gaff shot and falling in the water with a mako can ruin your weekend.i will photo today

Capt.Frank · Post by **Capt.Frank** » Dec 10th, '08, 09:46

Bob,If have any pictures of those pannels between the engines. I would love to see how it sits in there.
Thanks
Frank

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Dec 10th, '08, 12:41

this is the the picture of the completed panel.picture taken in a rainstorm.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Dec 10th, '08, 12:51

capt frank here are your pictures all contruction in and around engine compartment is azak brand pvc board.all joints in areas of no load use 3m
4000.a perfect match with azak and remains flexible.

Capt.Frank · Post by **Capt.Frank** » Dec 10th, '08, 15:20

Bob, Thats so simple. Thanks Frank

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Dec 10th, '08, 16:52

incidently capt.frank azak loves the router.you can run the roundover bit over any edge and make a nice clean cut however you must use carbine bits and get the feel of the router feed which is quite fast.there are at least 8 differant glues but azak brand pvc glue works real well especially if you break the glaze with sandpaper,and drys white.if you must use scews in a hidden area use 316ss deck screws very fast worm, with recessed square head drive then fill in with filler.building a bulkhead takes a couple of tricks and the use of plexus glue any other structual use of azak like a battery box will also require the same glue,and rabbited joints. according to costal contruction (professional building publication) azak held up better than any other product in hurricane construction and the effects of salt water on waterfront holmes.

randall · Post by **randall** » Dec 10th, '08, 17:14

loves the planer too. i had to narrow the width on some and it was easy as pie.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Dec 10th, '08, 22:00

Bob

Thanks for those shots. Real nice & Pretty slick the way it just slides in.

Rocky · Post by **Rocky** » Dec 10th, '08, 22:56

This is great guys, loaded with good info. What material would I use for replacing the hatches walking into the cabin on my sportfisherman? Someone painted over originals, but the originals are mushy and give a bit.
Thanks again, Rocky.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Dec 11th, '08, 03:28

3/4" coosa board thin coat of epoxy on both sides .paint edges and bottom the color of your choice.top side unthicken epoxy with 1/4" teak and holly.

Rocky · Post by **Rocky** » Dec 12th, '08, 00:55

Bob, sorry for bad response time. Would you happen to have pictures of this done, or maybe somewhere on this site? Sounds like a great material and final look!
Rocky.

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