V-berth side wall carpet
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V-berth side wall carpet
Guys,
I am considering pulling the carpet from the side walls of the V-berth and finishing the glass and painting it. What would be the easiest way to finish the sidewalls smooth and ready for paint. I would love to get rid of the moisture holding carpet, but don't want to spend countless days sanding in order to do so.
Thanks much,
Dan
www.finchasersportfishing.com
I am considering pulling the carpet from the side walls of the V-berth and finishing the glass and painting it. What would be the easiest way to finish the sidewalls smooth and ready for paint. I would love to get rid of the moisture holding carpet, but don't want to spend countless days sanding in order to do so.
Thanks much,
Dan
www.finchasersportfishing.com
Dan,
First of all, be SURE that you wear a respirator or other filtering device as you remove the existing "mouse hair" carpet from the V-berth walls. One of the guys on this Board got very sick from inhaling mildew-ridden carpet from his B-31 as he ripped it out. He got a lung infection that took several months to get over. I wore a respirator when I did mine, plus, I sprayed the carpet down with a 2:1 water:bleach mixture (I used a plastic sprayer from a lawn & garden store). I think it would take too much sanding and fairing to get the walls paint-ready, so I ground off the residual glue and scuffed up the surface, then I went back with a tight-looped commercial nylon carpet and glued it on........it looks great. I removed the head-liner before I started, and the project went smoothly.
Tommy
First of all, be SURE that you wear a respirator or other filtering device as you remove the existing "mouse hair" carpet from the V-berth walls. One of the guys on this Board got very sick from inhaling mildew-ridden carpet from his B-31 as he ripped it out. He got a lung infection that took several months to get over. I wore a respirator when I did mine, plus, I sprayed the carpet down with a 2:1 water:bleach mixture (I used a plastic sprayer from a lawn & garden store). I think it would take too much sanding and fairing to get the walls paint-ready, so I ground off the residual glue and scuffed up the surface, then I went back with a tight-looped commercial nylon carpet and glued it on........it looks great. I removed the head-liner before I started, and the project went smoothly.
Tommy
Dan-
My experience was kinda' like Tommy's. I had thought about pulling the carpet out and painting the sides white, but it would've required alot of sanding to get all the old glue off and then fairing. I went with rubber backed real short carpet (mousehair?) that I bought from Lowe's for about $35. Six years later it looks fine, the backing doesn't hold moisture, and I pretty much glued right over the old glue with a minimum amount of prep.
My Dad painted the interior on his old Formula 233 without fairing. If your're not spending nights in the v-berth, it looks fine and is maintenance and moisture free.
John
My experience was kinda' like Tommy's. I had thought about pulling the carpet out and painting the sides white, but it would've required alot of sanding to get all the old glue off and then fairing. I went with rubber backed real short carpet (mousehair?) that I bought from Lowe's for about $35. Six years later it looks fine, the backing doesn't hold moisture, and I pretty much glued right over the old glue with a minimum amount of prep.
My Dad painted the interior on his old Formula 233 without fairing. If your're not spending nights in the v-berth, it looks fine and is maintenance and moisture free.
John
Used the FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic) sheets that you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes. These are the sheets that you see in some bathrooms and showers, non-skid / bumpy patern on one side, smooth on the back. Make a patern out of paper, and cut the FRP sheet to the patern. Scuff the nonskid side of the FRP and glue it non-skid side down to the inside of the hull using a thickend epoxy resin. Fair the edges, sand, prep and paint. Ofcourse it's more time consuming then what i just explained.
Thanks guys! Looks like I'll stick with the carpet especially since lowering the headliner today and finding where the water has been coming from, the bow rail mounting bolts. Looks to be an easy fix. Wow, things really are better since electing Obama, I just can't wait till he covers all my payments and buys my gas.
When I re-did my v-berth.........we pulled out the old "carpet"; sanded the old glue a bit, cleaned with mineral spirit and installed a gray "pool carpet"sold at Home Depot.........stick it to the v-berth wall with 3M Adhesive Spray sold at the Depot also.............two years later it still there.......can be cleaned with damp wipes; vacumed; etc., and since the hair is so short, it does not hold a lot of debris.....lots of different "water proff"carpets sold in the market today......
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Tony,Tony Meola wrote:Ok Pat and Robbie. Now that you teased us, how about a hint as to where to find the padded vinyl.
Most upholstry shops, both marine and automotive can be a supply source. Also online. A doogle search string of "foam backed vinyl upholstery material" produced this link Prices run from $20 - $28 a yard for 54" wide material.
Br,
Patrick
captain patrick i glad you said it not me "home dildo" the real problem is the home centers cater to the people who don`t know better and have undermine the mom and pop lumber yards in most places.on long island we have 75 year old real lumber yards that have made it thru times.my son worked for months on a very elaborate raised panel cabinets and fine molding on a 16' wall.he let his guard down once a purchase a small piece of popular for a door.well low and behold on this 16' wall one piece warp and he went besirk.what point of cheap imitation crap do you not understand!!!!!
i puchased ostrich print marine leather with form back beautiful light beige.i did not even sand glas just rip off fake fur scrape any residue and apply new fabric with 3m-77.really simple.i remove locker door and went around entire v-berth with one piece.
i puchased ostrich print marine leather with form back beautiful light beige.i did not even sand glas just rip off fake fur scrape any residue and apply new fabric with 3m-77.really simple.i remove locker door and went around entire v-berth with one piece.
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Capt. Pat
Thanks. Very helpfull.
Bob, HD is only good for the quick I don't care repairs. Compare a HD ball valve to one bought at the local plumbing supply. For the extra $1 I will take the plumbing supply valve for my house. Now get caught with a plumbing problem on a Sunday, and no plumbing supply's open, then unfortunately its off to HD.
By the way, if its fixed the wife is happy, while I know I will have to take it apart again in a couple of years and fix it right, but hopefully it will not be on a sunday or late Saturday afternoon right after I get home from a business trip.
Thanks. Very helpfull.
Bob, HD is only good for the quick I don't care repairs. Compare a HD ball valve to one bought at the local plumbing supply. For the extra $1 I will take the plumbing supply valve for my house. Now get caught with a plumbing problem on a Sunday, and no plumbing supply's open, then unfortunately its off to HD.
By the way, if its fixed the wife is happy, while I know I will have to take it apart again in a couple of years and fix it right, but hopefully it will not be on a sunday or late Saturday afternoon right after I get home from a business trip.
tony you nailed on the head,you go there in a off hour just to make a repair.would you belive if you want to work with hot and cold water supply or for that matter radiant heat and you want to use pex be aware all the pex fitting in the world fit each other except home dildo brand single cheap ring instead of the double ss ring of all the others.we have someone in the family whom is way up there in mangement and put it simply they are here for maximun profit and to do this we f--k the public by selling name brand made under our own spects.look at your moen faucet then go to a plumbing supply first indication is the crome over plastic bottom gasket it is cheaper because the company drop there pants and went along with there name on a lesser product.how about homeline circuit breakers-- not for contiuous duty what the hell is that for thank god you are not selling liferafts!!
capt.bob lico
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Robbie / Patrick,
Is the padded vinyl the same material that Tiara uses in their cabin? Really is a nice soft, clean material... but, I've noticed that if one is to press against it, the padding compresses and doesn't re-expand. I'm basing this on a 2000 Tiara 29'. I'm sure when the material is new it bounces right back, but I noticed this while doing some work in the berth, I became offbalance, and put my hand on the hullside to steady myself, left a permanent hand print- indentation. Normal???
Is the padded vinyl the same material that Tiara uses in their cabin? Really is a nice soft, clean material... but, I've noticed that if one is to press against it, the padding compresses and doesn't re-expand. I'm basing this on a 2000 Tiara 29'. I'm sure when the material is new it bounces right back, but I noticed this while doing some work in the berth, I became offbalance, and put my hand on the hullside to steady myself, left a permanent hand print- indentation. Normal???
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Buju,
Same stuff... Your hand print was probably a result of too much adesive being used to install the material. The foam rubber backing is only 1/4" thick and too much adhesive will cause a transfer through to the vinyl itself when hard pressed.
The trick that I use is a fairly heavy application around the perimeter, 2" - 3", top an bottom, 1" - 2" on vertical ends, with a light application throughout the interior area. Any deep indentations, such as the chine area of the V-berth have to be bridged. On the B31, I do this by covering the chine with strips of heavy Formica, epoxy tabbed in place...
Same stuff... Your hand print was probably a result of too much adesive being used to install the material. The foam rubber backing is only 1/4" thick and too much adhesive will cause a transfer through to the vinyl itself when hard pressed.
The trick that I use is a fairly heavy application around the perimeter, 2" - 3", top an bottom, 1" - 2" on vertical ends, with a light application throughout the interior area. Any deep indentations, such as the chine area of the V-berth have to be bridged. On the B31, I do this by covering the chine with strips of heavy Formica, epoxy tabbed in place...
buju the padded back ostrich pattern soft leather is o.e.m. on the 2008 36' albemarle ,we have one in the yard and it is identical.i purchase it on e-bay under boat supplies .as capt.patrick said 54" wide and you can purchase as long as you want.they even sent me a swatch.i removed the head liner to make installation easier and no top cut.padded fabric goes beyond headliner and then when you reinstall headliner it becomes nice tight fit.i think the supplier was skipper lake.
sorry mike did not read that post as you know my son is in the business and will not touch that residentual panelboard (alluminum busswork) or the breakers.
sorry mike did not read that post as you know my son is in the business and will not touch that residentual panelboard (alluminum busswork) or the breakers.
capt.bob lico
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Patrick,
I got ya... And even once the backing breaks down, it's still cosemetically appealing, and easily cleanable. I think it also lends a nice acoustic quality to the cabin as well??
Neat trick with the mica over the chine. Gotta admit that I had no idea of how many potential uses formica has on boats.
Bob,
Interesting about the faux ostrich print... I can't quite picture the pattern though. Any pics? Sounds cool...
I got ya... And even once the backing breaks down, it's still cosemetically appealing, and easily cleanable. I think it also lends a nice acoustic quality to the cabin as well??
Neat trick with the mica over the chine. Gotta admit that I had no idea of how many potential uses formica has on boats.
Bob,
Interesting about the faux ostrich print... I can't quite picture the pattern though. Any pics? Sounds cool...
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Dan,
My whole cabin area including rear cabin bulkhead was removed and re-done. The sides above the v-berth and the head liner area were sanded and then built up with gel coat with ground up fiberglass mixed in. Alot of faring, and Wa La. I pretty much get the same comment when someone takes a look...Wow! Is this a new boat? A clean look, and should be easy to maintain.
My whole cabin area including rear cabin bulkhead was removed and re-done. The sides above the v-berth and the head liner area were sanded and then built up with gel coat with ground up fiberglass mixed in. Alot of faring, and Wa La. I pretty much get the same comment when someone takes a look...Wow! Is this a new boat? A clean look, and should be easy to maintain.
I'll never ruin a $50 buzz with a $4 sandwich
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the good thing about putting vinyl or carpet is that you dont have to remove all the old glue.
We are doing that right now on a 25 Bertram and its disgusting work, going to fair and paint the hull sides on that one.
Forget ebay for getting the vinyl, go to your local shop and pick some up and support your local business men/women.
We are doing that right now on a 25 Bertram and its disgusting work, going to fair and paint the hull sides on that one.
Forget ebay for getting the vinyl, go to your local shop and pick some up and support your local business men/women.
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Dug-
I also am very interested in your approach (as in pix if you have any). My folks Taiwan trawler (Defever) has the reak teak slats in the V berth and it looks great. How did you mount the "nailers"? I didn't see any ribs in Patricks picture, so was wondering how you held things in place.
(After reading all the posts, I am think thie head cold I seem to get after a few days on the boat..is really just an allergic reation to the mold that is undoubtedly trapped in the the OEM carpet....looks like another wionter project.)
I also am very interested in your approach (as in pix if you have any). My folks Taiwan trawler (Defever) has the reak teak slats in the V berth and it looks great. How did you mount the "nailers"? I didn't see any ribs in Patricks picture, so was wondering how you held things in place.
(After reading all the posts, I am think thie head cold I seem to get after a few days on the boat..is really just an allergic reation to the mold that is undoubtedly trapped in the the OEM carpet....looks like another wionter project.)
Giff
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its not that expensive, this application it is not used to step on.
If your thinking of it for the deck I advise you to use something else.
at this time it does not look like the day it went in, boat has been sitting and got quite dirty, his boat has no door or canvas, the boat is always open. Cushions would normally cover the seating areas.
A quick wipe with some clorox clean up gets it looking as new
If your thinking of it for the deck I advise you to use something else.
at this time it does not look like the day it went in, boat has been sitting and got quite dirty, his boat has no door or canvas, the boat is always open. Cushions would normally cover the seating areas.
A quick wipe with some clorox clean up gets it looking as new
Last edited by Raybo Marine NY on Nov 26th, '08, 12:13, edited 1 time in total.
I am planning on stripping out the old mouse fur in the forepeak and bunk cabin and replacing it with foam backed vinyl. About an year ago I ran into a guy who was planning to do the same to his boat and bought a roll of the professional stuff through a boat builder he knew. Before he started he sold his boat and I bought the material from him.. not sure but I think I have a roll about 20' long. I plan on using either 3M spray contact cement or liquid contact cement I brush on to adhere it.
I have heard it is very difficult to remove the original mouse fur.. I plan on using Fein Multitool with a flat blade.. does anybody have any suggestions about other options?
One reason I felt I should use something with a foam backing is the fact that when you are sleeping and roll against the hull if it is not foam backed or a carpet like material the hull surface feels cold. (Well.. I sleep naked). Also.. a non-insulating solid hull surface sweats if the conditions are right.
That being said, I think a stained wood batten lining looks great. Dug.. pictures please?
I have heard it is very difficult to remove the original mouse fur.. I plan on using Fein Multitool with a flat blade.. does anybody have any suggestions about other options?
One reason I felt I should use something with a foam backing is the fact that when you are sleeping and roll against the hull if it is not foam backed or a carpet like material the hull surface feels cold. (Well.. I sleep naked). Also.. a non-insulating solid hull surface sweats if the conditions are right.
That being said, I think a stained wood batten lining looks great. Dug.. pictures please?
Frank B
1983 Bertram 33 FBC "Phoenix"
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Trump lied! Washington DC isn't a swamp.. it is a cesspool!
1983 Bertram 33 FBC "Phoenix"
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Trump lied! Washington DC isn't a swamp.. it is a cesspool!
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I wont pretend I did the vinyl, we had the guy who made all the custom cushions for the v-berth and the u-shaped couch do the vinyl. He was not happy about doing it, harder and harder to get anyone to spray glue inside a boat. Its not rocket science.
Only thing I did were the side filler panels to hide the space up against the hull, and the headliner which is removable panels.
the v-berth is a perfect example of gelcoat not aging as well as paint, the forward part of the v-berth is gel and the rest of the inside of the boat is painted, the gelcoat is not holding the color true like the rest of the boat.
Only thing I did were the side filler panels to hide the space up against the hull, and the headliner which is removable panels.
the v-berth is a perfect example of gelcoat not aging as well as paint, the forward part of the v-berth is gel and the rest of the inside of the boat is painted, the gelcoat is not holding the color true like the rest of the boat.
We did the padded vinyl sides as well, including the headliner. There are a lot of pics on www.seanile31.com
http://www.seanile31.com/Site/SeaNile_During.html#94
http://www.seanile31.com/Site/SeaNile_During.html#115
http://www.seanile31.com/Site/SeaNile_During.html#126
--JK
http://www.seanile31.com/Site/SeaNile_During.html#94
http://www.seanile31.com/Site/SeaNile_During.html#115
http://www.seanile31.com/Site/SeaNile_During.html#126
--JK
wow what a surprise i received on a pm.the v-berth i created is stock oem on 37' to 50' egg harbor.un beknown to me the ostrich embossed,padded fabric was a egg harbor factory left over partial roll.and they install that on walls in combination with aqua colored printed pattern cushions. that is exactly what i have the cushions cost 950.00 and are made with sunbrella fabric so be aware of the cost if you go this route.i made the bulkhead wall solid teak with the main electrical panel recessed into hanging locker.i thought the whole setup was unique now i find out it is routine egg harbor interior for 2008.
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