i am in the process of trying to remove the panels in the cockpit so I can refinish them with a new coat of paint. The problem is that I was able to get the side ones off, but am not able to figure out how to get the back one off.It appears that the teak trim on the bottom is being held on from the underside, but I can't seem to figure out how to get to it.Any clues? or help would be greatly apprecrated-- is there service or construction book available from the Bertram archives?
Thanks for your help
Frank
cocpit panels
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Cockpit Panels
The transom panel is held in place on both port and starboard sides with an L shaped oak backing board( side panels screwed into also), remove all the screws into this board( backing board usually falls right off) and then lift the entire panel straight upward then pull toward you . The teak on the vertical has a lip about 1/2" that the transom panel sits down into, almost a pressure fit.
Teak trim board that runs across the transom at deck level stays in place and was screwed from the bottom side upward thru the plywood and about 5 wooden cleats attach the vertical teak trim. That's how my 1961 was put together. You have to take the cockpit cleats off, so the panel has clearance to come toward you. A couple of flat 2" wide pry bars help. Slow and easy, It's a 2 person job, the older boats had formica facing over the plywood panels that breaks very easy if you try and force it out.
If you have to make new panels, use PVC foam board, or if you know a good glass guy have him lay-up gel coated core mat panels. Just remember that the transom panel is longer than the side panels, over 8' long. Good Luck!
Teak trim board that runs across the transom at deck level stays in place and was screwed from the bottom side upward thru the plywood and about 5 wooden cleats attach the vertical teak trim. That's how my 1961 was put together. You have to take the cockpit cleats off, so the panel has clearance to come toward you. A couple of flat 2" wide pry bars help. Slow and easy, It's a 2 person job, the older boats had formica facing over the plywood panels that breaks very easy if you try and force it out.
If you have to make new panels, use PVC foam board, or if you know a good glass guy have him lay-up gel coated core mat panels. Just remember that the transom panel is longer than the side panels, over 8' long. Good Luck!
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Frank,
The teak assembly is screwed down to the sub-shelf with #8 screws that are bunged over. Look closely and you will find the bungs. Carefully drill or cut out the bungs without damaging the countersink hole to expose the screw heads. You can make new bungs using a bung cutter available at most hardware stores, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Or you can buy pre-made bungs from a marine supply. Use epoxy to re-install them.
If you don't find bungs, then like Pete said, they may be screwed in from below the sub-shelf...
Br,
Patrick
The teak assembly is screwed down to the sub-shelf with #8 screws that are bunged over. Look closely and you will find the bungs. Carefully drill or cut out the bungs without damaging the countersink hole to expose the screw heads. You can make new bungs using a bung cutter available at most hardware stores, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Or you can buy pre-made bungs from a marine supply. Use epoxy to re-install them.
If you don't find bungs, then like Pete said, they may be screwed in from below the sub-shelf...
Br,
Patrick
Br,
Patrick
Molon labe
Patrick
Molon labe
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cockpit panels
thanks for all of your great advice. i;ll give it a try as soon as the weather breaks
Frank
Frank
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