Fixin to spruce up my Cummins 210
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
Fixin to spruce up my Cummins 210
Pulling the stbd transmission will give me a chance to work on the stb engine and engine compartment this winter/spring.
In preparation I took some photos and am compiling a list of parts and supplies. Your input is welcome.
Warning: This post contains graphic images of a poorly maintained engine and may not be appropriate for all viewers.
First off, the raw water pump(s) needs attention.
In addition to replacing the impeller and o-ring, the book says to replace the wear plate.
My yard guy is recommending I replace the cam, what do you think?
Here's the whole left side of the engine.
Those brown stains are from a since-fixed fuel leak.
I'm thinking a degreaser should clean it up some.
Heat exchanger needs end plates and gaskets.
I'll need to take it apart to ascertain the amount of corrosion and/or damage it has sustained.
(Note: the hose w/ the elbow is not mine)
I'm lucky this belt didn't break while underway. I'll replace both sides.
These small flexible radiator hoses are OK but I need a set on the port side.
What you might call the business end of 6BTA
I want to touch up the paint some, how hard would a complete paint job be I wonder?
Need a couple vibration isolators. And an oil pan gasket.
In preparation I took some photos and am compiling a list of parts and supplies. Your input is welcome.
Warning: This post contains graphic images of a poorly maintained engine and may not be appropriate for all viewers.
First off, the raw water pump(s) needs attention.
In addition to replacing the impeller and o-ring, the book says to replace the wear plate.
My yard guy is recommending I replace the cam, what do you think?
Here's the whole left side of the engine.
Those brown stains are from a since-fixed fuel leak.
I'm thinking a degreaser should clean it up some.
Heat exchanger needs end plates and gaskets.
I'll need to take it apart to ascertain the amount of corrosion and/or damage it has sustained.
(Note: the hose w/ the elbow is not mine)
I'm lucky this belt didn't break while underway. I'll replace both sides.
These small flexible radiator hoses are OK but I need a set on the port side.
What you might call the business end of 6BTA
I want to touch up the paint some, how hard would a complete paint job be I wonder?
Need a couple vibration isolators. And an oil pan gasket.
- Brewster Minton
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1795
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 07:44
- Location: Hampton Bays NY
- Contact:
- In Memory Walter K
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2912
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:25
- Location: East Hampton LI, NY
- Contact:
- Harry Babb
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2354
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:45
- Location: Fairhope Al
- Contact:
Steve
Take a look at these pics..........Before and After.........The after pic still shows some primer touch up. In the end I will shoot the entire engine one more time. I had the engine completely disassembled so it was realitively easy to paint each component. I used BLP brand MoPoxy 2 part Epoxy primer and Mothane 2 part Urethane topcoat.
Is the extra pulley on the front of your engine just an idler or does it drive something???
Take a look at these pics..........Before and After.........The after pic still shows some primer touch up. In the end I will shoot the entire engine one more time. I had the engine completely disassembled so it was realitively easy to paint each component. I used BLP brand MoPoxy 2 part Epoxy primer and Mothane 2 part Urethane topcoat.
Is the extra pulley on the front of your engine just an idler or does it drive something???
hb
- John Jackson
- Senior Member
- Posts: 161
- Joined: Jul 19th, '06, 22:39
- Location: Point Pleasant Beach, NJ
- Harry Babb
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2354
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:45
- Location: Fairhope Al
- Contact:
Randall
Sure is satisifying.......Cannot wait to see them sitting in a clean and painted engine room.
Steve
Another thought.......look real close to at your exhaust elbows, mine are stainless steel and I firmly believe that the one that I am showing you is the main cause of engine failure. Now is the perfect time to take a good look. I would take it off and bead blast it to get a good close up look.
Some of the exhaust elbows are Cuppr-Nickle and they last a lot longer....this may be the case with your elbows
Harry
Sure is satisifying.......Cannot wait to see them sitting in a clean and painted engine room.
Steve
Another thought.......look real close to at your exhaust elbows, mine are stainless steel and I firmly believe that the one that I am showing you is the main cause of engine failure. Now is the perfect time to take a good look. I would take it off and bead blast it to get a good close up look.
Some of the exhaust elbows are Cuppr-Nickle and they last a lot longer....this may be the case with your elbows
Harry
hb
- Harry Babb
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2354
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:45
- Location: Fairhope Al
- Contact:
Harry nice job I have one question?
The second picture has what looks to be sealer around the top edge of the oil pan. Is this correct because they seem to weep a little oil from the bolt holes is thst what I see? Did it work?
I also say do the rebuild on the pump not worth taking the chance you don't want to overheat them!
Dan
The second picture has what looks to be sealer around the top edge of the oil pan. Is this correct because they seem to weep a little oil from the bolt holes is thst what I see? Did it work?
I also say do the rebuild on the pump not worth taking the chance you don't want to overheat them!
Dan
- Harry Babb
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2354
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:45
- Location: Fairhope Al
- Contact:
Dan
When I painted the engine I intentionally let the paint wrap around the gasket surfaces of the block and the oil pan. I painted each item before assembly. Equipment typically starts rusting in these areas. My engines had a good bit of rust on the block in the area where the oil pan bolts up.
Sooooooo what I did was, after the pan was bolted on I applied more of the BLP MoPoxy primer to the areas that concerned me. My thoughts are that if I can "Bridge" the gap between the block and the pan and "Plug" the open threaded pan screw holes from the top, with the paint, I can possibly delay the rust for a few more years...........that is if my paint does not crack and flake off due to the thickness. The MoPoxy is a thick primer to start with......its made for thick buildup.
Does it work???? I did the same thing to my 350 in the old Chaparall 5 years ago........so far its still good.
You better believe that I will rebuild the Seawater pumps. I have ordered and received the necessary pump parts from Seaboard Marine.
Thanks for the complements
Harry
When I painted the engine I intentionally let the paint wrap around the gasket surfaces of the block and the oil pan. I painted each item before assembly. Equipment typically starts rusting in these areas. My engines had a good bit of rust on the block in the area where the oil pan bolts up.
Sooooooo what I did was, after the pan was bolted on I applied more of the BLP MoPoxy primer to the areas that concerned me. My thoughts are that if I can "Bridge" the gap between the block and the pan and "Plug" the open threaded pan screw holes from the top, with the paint, I can possibly delay the rust for a few more years...........that is if my paint does not crack and flake off due to the thickness. The MoPoxy is a thick primer to start with......its made for thick buildup.
Does it work???? I did the same thing to my 350 in the old Chaparall 5 years ago........so far its still good.
You better believe that I will rebuild the Seawater pumps. I have ordered and received the necessary pump parts from Seaboard Marine.
Thanks for the complements
Harry
hb
- TailhookTom
- Senior Member
- Posts: 985
- Joined: Jul 3rd, '06, 14:12
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot] and 266 guests