Need advice with Gel Crazing

[CaptDana]

Happy New Year to all- I just returned from the warmth of Florida to the tundra in Michigan- Before the Holiday's I purchased a B25 project- I am moving forward with it- Biggest problem- I have tons of Gel crazing on the topside gel- all of gunnel areas are crazed througout the boat- This is very extensive- I am looking for recommended repair methods- I plan on Awlgriping it as the final topcoat-

Thanks in advance.
Capt Dana

[Ironman]

I had a 25 with a lot of that.. My boat "advisors" said the boat had a real thick gelcoat... Also had a whaler like that too.... It never really bothered me.
Wayne

[nic]

Smile lines.....that Bertram's been having a lot of fun.

Nic

[Rawleigh]

The usual advice is sand it completely off down to the glass. It will reappear through the new finish if you don't.

[CaptDana]

There must be others that have encountered this problem--I have searched on the net and there is hardly any information on how to fix this.

[RussP]

Dana, when I preped my 31 for paint this summer I found all kinds of gelcoat crazing under the old paint that I never knew was there. This was a 10 year old Awl-Grip paint job. Everyone says the crazing will eventually show through but I've seen several painted boats that showed no print through. Personally I would sand most of the gelcoat down but not completly off. Usa a air board sander or a long block to keep it from looking like a mountain range and stop as you start to burn through the old gel coat. Prime with High Build prime, fair with Awl-Fair and continue on with 545 prime and paint.

RussP

[CMP]

Like Russ, my B25 had paint on it-junk paint at that-with crazing beneath, but not showing through. Since I was doing a total customization job on it, I sandblasted all the gelcoat off and faired it. It was a pain, but the result was great. If it were me, I'd merely sand it down and go. There is a tool available that removes gelcoat and I've heard good things about it. It's like a planer for gelcoat and if you hook up to a good shop vac with a hepa filter, not much mess at all. Here's the link http://www.gelplane.co.uk/gelplane/product.asp . The guy I met who's used it told me it does a real nice job, is fast and much cleaner than what I did. I wish I'd known about it b4 I sandblasted...

CMP

[CaptDana]

Mine was painted over with some cheap paint also- Here is the process I am thinking about going with--Sand the gel down - dremel out the remaining cracks and then fill with pourable putty- fair out- prime and paint- Most of the gunnels and are going to be non-skid with sand in it so I will be able to hide alot. In the back deck- the inner part of the gunnel will have coaming to hide the mistakes--that just leaves by the windshield area that will need to be perfect. I am planning on avoiding epoxy for the filling in order to prevent shrinkage- ( At least that what my local glass guy recommends--am I on the right track?) Final topcoat with Awlgrip.

Any last ideas guys?

BTW-- 6" of fresh snow the past 5 hours :(
Capt Dana

[CaptPatrick]

Capt Dana,

The best approach is to sand the gelcoat down to a minimum. Apply a coat of 545 epoxy primer, lightly sand that when cured, & apply at least one coat of epoxy High Build primer. Once that's sanded, two coats of 545 will have you ready for paint and with no worry about anything ghosting through down the line.

The first coat of 545 will penetrate the surface better & yield a better bond that starting with High Build primer. I would even roll that first coat to better force the primer into the surface...

It's the thickness of the old gelcoat that's still shrinking & beyond it surface tension to withstand cracking. A good sanding to remove that thickness is necessary. If you just gouge out & fill the cracks without reducing the thickness significantly, new cracks will still come back in areas that aren't now cracked.

Br,

Patrick

[randall]

uh oh...at least its just the gunwale insides