ReJex
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- CaptPatrick
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Bill,
Try this search return, ignore the first two links, the rest of the 4 or five pages of returns are links to discussion of Rejex from this site...
And, yup, it's good stuff, like all of the CX products.
Br,
Patrick
Try this search return, ignore the first two links, the rest of the 4 or five pages of returns are links to discussion of Rejex from this site...
And, yup, it's good stuff, like all of the CX products.
Br,
Patrick
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- Senior Member
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Jul 26th, '06, 18:10
- Location: mt. laurel n.j.
rejex
i use this product for the last 3 years and i can tell you for a 1981 the gelcoat looks almost new and it lasts the whole season.
the process i use is a little labor intensive but the results are fabulous.
1) i use AQUA-BUFF 2000 to clean and polish.
2) i put on a coat of COLLINITE paste wax
3) i put on a coat of rejex
each process i use a high speed buffer with a wool pad. the AQUA-BUFF is available online and the REJEX is available from VJ right here .
the process i use is a little labor intensive but the results are fabulous.
1) i use AQUA-BUFF 2000 to clean and polish.
2) i put on a coat of COLLINITE paste wax
3) i put on a coat of rejex
each process i use a high speed buffer with a wool pad. the AQUA-BUFF is available online and the REJEX is available from VJ right here .
After a few discussions with Capt Pat a few years ago I went with this method:
1. Polish the entire hull with 3m's Finesse It2 (with machine).
2. Used Meguires Machine Glaze to seal the gelcoat (also with machine).
3. Put 2 coats of rejex on the entire hull (by hand).
I don't recommend using any wax at all. I think it reduces the effects of the rejex. To quote Capt Pat:
"Wax AIN'T yer buddy! The surface achieved with the MG is a tightly sealed polymer finish that will resist softening and dirt migration into the surface..."
I first did this back in 2005. Since then, all I've done each spring is wash the gelcoat and put on the 2 coats of rejex. The boat looks tremendous all season.
Remember, no wax either before or after rejex or your results will suffer.
1. Polish the entire hull with 3m's Finesse It2 (with machine).
2. Used Meguires Machine Glaze to seal the gelcoat (also with machine).
3. Put 2 coats of rejex on the entire hull (by hand).
I don't recommend using any wax at all. I think it reduces the effects of the rejex. To quote Capt Pat:
"Wax AIN'T yer buddy! The surface achieved with the MG is a tightly sealed polymer finish that will resist softening and dirt migration into the surface..."
I first did this back in 2005. Since then, all I've done each spring is wash the gelcoat and put on the 2 coats of rejex. The boat looks tremendous all season.
Remember, no wax either before or after rejex or your results will suffer.
Regards,
Doug L.
Doug L.
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- Senior Member
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 06:57
- Location: NH
- CaptPatrick
- Founder/Admin
- Posts: 4161
- Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
- Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 06:57
- Location: NH
rejex
Thanks for the input,in the past I've used Nu Finish which I have to say worked great.I would do 2 coats 1 by buffer 1 by hand and would last a season my complaint is that I would wind up with what I would describe as a dirt coat that seems to be retained in the Nu Finish when I clean the boat before wrap I use Spray Nine and the boat becomes white again.Thinking 1 coat Nu Finish and a coat of ReJex over that.
Bill
Bill
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