Core material

[Thums Up]

Any body ever work with Penske board? Any thoughts on the quality versus Corecell or Dyvinicel? Looking to make some bulkheads and floors, decks with the stuff. Finally turned the corner on the boat and putting it back together.

Thanks Greg

[CaptPatrick]

Greg,

All three are quality products but differ greatly in properties. Penski Board is the same type of fiber reinforced urethane foam as Coosa Board & Thermo-Lite Board. (See previous discussion: Cockpit Sole Replacement Question)

CoreCell is a more resilient foam core material, similar to Airex & Klegecel. These are best suited to hull coring because they can withstand damage that would crush foams similar to Divinycell. Also good for light weight cabinetry...

For below deck partitions, like aft of the fuel tank, aft engine compartment bulkhead, & the partial partitions beneath the cabin deck, Penski/Coosa/Thermo-Lite is a good choice because it isn't necessary to add any surface material to make it cosmetically pleasing. Quick & simple...

For decks, Penski/Coosa/Thermo-Lite would be the best choice, but H80 Divinycell is a close second choice.

For above deck level bulkheads H60 Divinycell is my preference. Interior bulkheads can be made by laminating both sides of the Divinycell with heavy weight Formica type laminates. Use thickened epoxy to bond the laminates.

For the cockpit/cabin bulkhead, I still stick to my 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood, epoxied together, & laminated with heavy Formica style laminate. That bulkhead gets screwed & epoxied into place, becoming a permanent structural element of the boat.

I do interior sub-decks also in plywood, sealed with epoxy & tabbed to the hull on the outboard edges. Edges around hatch openings are stripped with 1/8" fiber reinforced plastic, (Home Depot shower wall material).

Br,

Patrick

[Rit]

Greg, I've been using both Penske board and Coosa board for below deck bulkheads & some under gunnel cap backing. Both seem to be lighter & stronger than plywood when covered with FB. Both take screws well, and are worked just like plywood.

I'm using these materials because I want my boat to be better off after my stewardship than she was before I found her. At the very least, the next owner won't have rotted bulkheads and decaying deck supports to deal with.

One word of caution: when you work this stuff, a good bit of very fine FB particles go everywhere. When you handle it, suit up or you'll be doing the ol' FB mambo. I suit up, use a high quality mask/filters, a high volume area air filtration, as well as, my 1200 cfm vacuum system connected to my cutting tools. Even with all this the room is still a toxic waste site when I'm done. Hope this doesn't scare you off... just be careful and all will be fine.

I've been vacuum bagging the parts I've make with these composites and so far it's been fat city. Just so you know: this is the first time I've used the stuff so take my experience with a grain of salt as I'm just a backyard do it yourself'r & NOT a pro like the ol' Captain. My last bit of advise is to see what Capt Pat says about these boards. He's the pro.

Rit

[Thums Up]

Great info., thanks Guys!