I’m getting ready to install my aluminum framed window’s here in Mexico and I’m nervous as all hell. I will be using Sika 292. I have the 226 cleaner, Activator, and the 210T Primer.
The area to be installed has already been painted over with Imron.
I pulled up all the info I could find on the sika website but I’m still worried.
Any advice on sanding and prepping would be greatly appreciated.
We have about 1/8†of play all around the window frame.
How many screws should use to hold her in place if any?
How long before I pull the shims out?
Whats the best way to apply these chemicals?
I have 4 tubes of the 292, how should I apply it? I assume I put it on the aluminum window frame. Sorry for all the stupid Questions I’m just a little worried because these guys at the shop have never used this stuff so I want to make sure they get it right or it could be a major cluster ######.
I will try and post some pics of the process. Thanks for your help
Installing new windows today.... HELP......
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Mike,
Take a break... Relax with a cup or coffee, think about the steps you'll go through. Things like: How am I going to hold the frames in place while the compound sets up? Do I have all the materials, supplies, hardware, & tools laid out and ready to rock & roll? Take you time doing a dress rehearsal; no rush at this point, but once you squirt the first bead of Sikaflex, things have to move along swiftly and smoothly.
As to holding the frames in place initially & temporarily, I have someone hold the frame in place & drill an 1/8" hole into the fiberglass close alongside the frame. Use a drywall screw & a plastic washer, to keep from marring the frame. Do this in as many places around the frame as necessary, maybe 6-8 screws per frame. After the frames are bedded & cured, these screws will be removed, excess compound cleaned away & a final caulk line applied around the frame, hiding the screw holes.
First, Dry fit your frames & mark around them both inside & outside. Mask out the frames to keep the compound off of any area that not's to be bonded. Remove the frames and set them aside, exterior face down.
Tape out your pencil lines with low tack tape. Use fine line tape if you have it available. Mask out all areas around the tape for at least 12" & spread drop cloths or paper any where you don't want the Sikaflex to get onto.
Wipe all bonding surfaces, both boat & frames with denatured alcohol. With 80 grit paper, rough up all the bonding surfaces. Sanding without first cleaning with alcohol will allow any contamination to be pushed around & harder to clean off. After sanding, clean again with denatured alcohol.
Use a 2" chip brush to apply the Sikaflex cleaner, activator, & primer.
Take another break, clear your head, again think about your steps to come. Make sure that your helpers understand how to do the dance before the music begins. Look over your prepped areas: Are they clean, tape down tight, everything you need ready to go, etc? Plenty of paper towels, rags, cleaning solutions, rubber gloves? Temporary screws & washers handy?
Once you have the cobwebs cleared from your mind, apply a very thin layer of Sikaflex to the bonding surfaces. Do this with your fingers and smooth it down well & completely. Have one helper do the opening while you do the frame. Change to a fresh pair of gloves & lay down a healthy bead of compound around the frame, keeping the bead in the inside corner of the frame. The bead has to be heavy enough to allow the compound to squeeze freely into the voids when you press the frame into the boat.
Insert the frame into the boat, install the temporary screws, snug them down evenly, cleanup all excess compound inside & out. Where the excess is around the screws, remove one screw at a time, clean, & replace the screw.
Repeat the whole process on the other side...
Allow the Sikaflex to cure over night & remove the screws & masking. Clean up any left over compound, re-tape around both sides of the joint leaving about 1/16" of exposed edge on the frame & 1/8" exposed on the boat. Use fine line tape & make sure it's down tightly. Wipe cleaner & activator into the joint & apply a small bead of compound, using your finger, (no glove), to smooth in a tight fillet between the frame & boat. Make sure that the inside edges of the tape are clearly showing -- no excess compound -- & pull the tape while the compound is fresh.
Have fun!
Take a break... Relax with a cup or coffee, think about the steps you'll go through. Things like: How am I going to hold the frames in place while the compound sets up? Do I have all the materials, supplies, hardware, & tools laid out and ready to rock & roll? Take you time doing a dress rehearsal; no rush at this point, but once you squirt the first bead of Sikaflex, things have to move along swiftly and smoothly.
As to holding the frames in place initially & temporarily, I have someone hold the frame in place & drill an 1/8" hole into the fiberglass close alongside the frame. Use a drywall screw & a plastic washer, to keep from marring the frame. Do this in as many places around the frame as necessary, maybe 6-8 screws per frame. After the frames are bedded & cured, these screws will be removed, excess compound cleaned away & a final caulk line applied around the frame, hiding the screw holes.
First, Dry fit your frames & mark around them both inside & outside. Mask out the frames to keep the compound off of any area that not's to be bonded. Remove the frames and set them aside, exterior face down.
Tape out your pencil lines with low tack tape. Use fine line tape if you have it available. Mask out all areas around the tape for at least 12" & spread drop cloths or paper any where you don't want the Sikaflex to get onto.
Wipe all bonding surfaces, both boat & frames with denatured alcohol. With 80 grit paper, rough up all the bonding surfaces. Sanding without first cleaning with alcohol will allow any contamination to be pushed around & harder to clean off. After sanding, clean again with denatured alcohol.
Use a 2" chip brush to apply the Sikaflex cleaner, activator, & primer.
Take another break, clear your head, again think about your steps to come. Make sure that your helpers understand how to do the dance before the music begins. Look over your prepped areas: Are they clean, tape down tight, everything you need ready to go, etc? Plenty of paper towels, rags, cleaning solutions, rubber gloves? Temporary screws & washers handy?
Once you have the cobwebs cleared from your mind, apply a very thin layer of Sikaflex to the bonding surfaces. Do this with your fingers and smooth it down well & completely. Have one helper do the opening while you do the frame. Change to a fresh pair of gloves & lay down a healthy bead of compound around the frame, keeping the bead in the inside corner of the frame. The bead has to be heavy enough to allow the compound to squeeze freely into the voids when you press the frame into the boat.
Insert the frame into the boat, install the temporary screws, snug them down evenly, cleanup all excess compound inside & out. Where the excess is around the screws, remove one screw at a time, clean, & replace the screw.
Repeat the whole process on the other side...
Allow the Sikaflex to cure over night & remove the screws & masking. Clean up any left over compound, re-tape around both sides of the joint leaving about 1/16" of exposed edge on the frame & 1/8" exposed on the boat. Use fine line tape & make sure it's down tightly. Wipe cleaner & activator into the joint & apply a small bead of compound, using your finger, (no glove), to smooth in a tight fillet between the frame & boat. Make sure that the inside edges of the tape are clearly showing -- no excess compound -- & pull the tape while the compound is fresh.
Have fun!
Br,
Patrick
Molon labe
Patrick
Molon labe
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Thanks a million times over Patrick. I feel allot better know.
I was thinking of using 1/8 inch shims and pulling them out but I guess that can be a problem. I'm a little confused on the screws and where exactly to put them. You want them on the outside of the boat window frame right?
thanks agian Pat if your ever planing a trip to Cabo let me know. You have some free fishing time on my boat coming.
I was thinking of using 1/8 inch shims and pulling them out but I guess that can be a problem. I'm a little confused on the screws and where exactly to put them. You want them on the outside of the boat window frame right?
thanks agian Pat if your ever planing a trip to Cabo let me know. You have some free fishing time on my boat coming.
- CaptPatrick
- Founder/Admin
- Posts: 4161
- Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
- Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com
Mike,
Right, the screws are outside & together with the washers they hold the frame flush against the boat... Maybe three or four spaced out along the top & bottom, one or two along the forward vertical, maybe one at the aft point. The pilot holes need to be real close to the frame edge. The fewer the beter, as long as the frame is being pulled into face of the boat.
Thanks for the fishing offer, might take you up someday!
Br,
Patrick
Right, the screws are outside & together with the washers they hold the frame flush against the boat... Maybe three or four spaced out along the top & bottom, one or two along the forward vertical, maybe one at the aft point. The pilot holes need to be real close to the frame edge. The fewer the beter, as long as the frame is being pulled into face of the boat.
Thanks for the fishing offer, might take you up someday!
Br,
Patrick
Br,
Patrick
Molon labe
Patrick
Molon labe
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