tear down finally begins

[S Ritzert]

I finally got started on the tear down of Bucktail.

This will be the first week

[S Ritzert]

Week 2

[Carl]

Wow...alot of custom work was done to that boat.
Quick look prop pockets, pocket door, curved head enclosure, ceiling electronics, nasty shaft logs (or bad pics), relocated exhaust...
Yet...looks like it needed some work.
Has to be a story there...

That said, project seems to be moving along nicely.
Keep at it and keep up with the pics please, as if no pic, it didn't happen LOL

Whats the direction you looking to go, if I may ask?

[S Ritzert]

yeah, a lot of custom work. It was refurbished by Cabrera in like 2000'ish, I can confirm that year later on. I will be the 4th owner on it. It only has 715 hours since refurbish. Cabrera used some wood that is rotten in it, I will be going back with coosa.

I have never seen bolt on shaft logs, I usually deal with brass logs that are glassed in. What's your thoughts on those. They are defiantly custom built, the welds on them are about a 4 on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the best

[Tony Meola]

Let the fun begin.

I would change those over to fiberglass shaft logs.

https://bertram31.com/proj/tips/shaft_logs.htm

I am also surprised that Cabrera did not beef up the strut pads.

https://bertram31.com/proj/struts/strut_backing.htm

If the rudder shelf is wood, I would change that also.

https://bertram31.com/proj/tips/rudder_shelf.htm

When we did our rudder shelf, we used structural fiberglass u channel from McMaster-Carr. Built two supports at each end and glassed it all together.

We also used structural fiberglass in the companionway rather than the wood supports that were original.

[Carl]

My original shaft logs were Bolted on Bronze logs. They had a pair of thin bronze backing strips on outside that had some corrosion but the log itself was 100%. I was planning to use, but going from 1-1/4 shaft to 1-1/2 it left no wiggle room and glassed in fiberglass logs. In short...I believe bolt on logs are fine.


If you are asking my opinion of using the existing SS logs in the boat...

Yes I agree the welding looks to be a 3 or 4 on a scale of 1-10. I assume it was stick welded with lots of starts n stops not to overheat which can burn away the corrosion resistance. So I could give a pass on being ugly, if done right. I would however pull and inspect the underside of the logs looking for corrosion/pitting around the welds, gaps, corners and inside tube, were packing hose mounts to log anywhere water gets trapped when sitting. If they used 316L material and rod, didn't overheat and bonded they could be fine.

Silverton had a model ( 28' ?) with welded SS shaft logs made from thin 12ga sheet and thin SS tube. For a few years we made quite a few replacement logs as they started to corrode through in multiple spots. I think that s an example of done wrong.

[S Ritzert]

Tony,

Yes, anything wood will be replaced with coosa, ie, rudder shelfs, the generator shelf (which I am considering relocating the generator), the battery shelf. When I refurbished my 28, I did the same thing per the instructions on here.

I plan on removing the rudder ports, struts, and shaft logs to inspect the glass thickness, and integrity of these items. I considered re-welding the logs via tig welding, and cleaning everything up, but I do like the idea of glass shaft logs. I will make that decision when I get closer to that time. I was planning on adding glass to the strut area if that area didn't meet my liking to beef that up. I cant tell you how many struts and rudders I've seen ripped off of boats from impacts, so I am a firm believer in having those areas beefed up.

I appreciate the thoughts and ideas! thanks fellas!

[Tommy]

I visited on the Bucktail with the 2nd owner in Georgetown, SC, somewhere around 2005, and the boat was in excellent shape. As Carl commented, "there has to be a story there" as to how a boat that was customized and repowered so well could fall into a state of disrepair. With that said, as I get older (71 now) I realize I don't have the energy to stay on top of some of my maintenance responsibilities around home and boat.......

[Carl]

With that said, as I get older (71 now) I realize I don't have the energy to stay on top of some of my maintenance responsibilities around home and boat.......

Looks like the home will have to go...

[S Ritzert]

Tommy,

I have had a conversation with Mr. Clark. I actually found him through some research on this site. He told me he purchased it from the original owner, and it was the original owner that had the work done at Cabrera. If I remember correct, he said the original owner, who was a friend of his, never even took delivery of it from Cabrera. Mr. Clark is the one that took delivery from Cabrera. He actually mailed me what information he had left on the Bucktail. Super nice fella!

I have the logbooks and receipts of service performed from Mr. Clark. One thing I wish he would've done was to strip the bottom paint off at about the 5th coat. lol

I do have a question that maybe you can answer for me. When you go to wide open throttle, it takes a lot of time for the port engine to spool up. The props are monsters on it. I had them sent in and cut down and re-pitched. I purchased new turbos as well, they have eaten a lot of saltwater, and I redesigned the exhaust system. Have you taken a ride on the boat? Do you recall it being sluggish?

[Tony Meola]

When we redid our shaft logs, we found the glass in that area to be on the thin side. It might be worth just going all the way if you find the same thing.

[Tommy]

S. Ritzert (I never got your first name),

When I met with Jim in Georgetown it was to look at some plantations that he managed in the low country, so we spent most of our time riding in his truck. He took me to the dock to see Bucktail, but we did not take her out, so I cannot report on a sea trial. You are correct, Jim is a heck of a nice guy. Maybe the folks at Cabrera can shed some light on the history of the transaction. Keep us posted on your progress!

[S Ritzert]

Sorry, first name is Shannon, I don't know why that doesn't show up.

I thought Cabrera was shut down. I'd love to get some info from them if they have it. I'd love to have the hull number on the boat if I can find it. I haven't crossed that road with Texas Parks and Wildlife yet. To get the boat titled in Texas, we have to do an etching of the HID and engine serial numbers.

[Tommy]

Shannon, remind me the build year of Bucktail. I believe it was 1972 when the government required hull numbers to be applied on the transom just under the rub rail on the stbd side. Prior to that most hull #s were glassed into the hull under one of the v-berth hatches. Other places I've seen hull #s are beneath the galley sink on the stbd hull and on the inside of the transom down behind the steering gear (very hard to find). Good luck, and let us know if you stumble upon it.

[S Ritzert]

1964. I've looked in the locations recommended from the forums. I've not been successful. I am hoping in the tear down, I will have some success

[Amberjack]

The hull number will be written on the underside of the cabin sole hatch covers. The hatch covers were apparently cut to fit rather than being jig or pattern cut. I still have mine and avoided painting the undersides for that reason.

[Tommy]

They were built super strong in 1964 with an extra thick fiberglass layup, so you have a very sturdy boat! I had a 1962 model and later a 1972 model.
Based on Doug's knowledge of the earlier models, you miight not find the number anywhere on the existing boat. The cabin sole hatch might have been discarded during renovation, which could be a problem for your search.

[Amberjack]

As Tommy said scrape some of the paint off the inside of the transom about 10” inches above the keel. Mine (1969) are on a piece of paper glassed in there. If there is one you won’t hurt it by removing the paint.

[S Ritzert]

Yeah, the cabin sole hatch was a piece of wolmanized plywood that I assume the previous owner made himself. He was in the middle of installing the bathroom/shower, and had a water tank in the bilge under the hatch.

I will check the transom above the keel though

[Snipe]

Good luck with the rebuild she looks to be a great boat to start with. A lot of work already done some elbow grease should cleanup nice then make a punch list and get started. Keep the pictures coming we all like pictures.

[S Ritzert]

Week 3 of teardown. I am close to grinding, so I probably won't post until grinding comes along and the weather is cooler. I hate grinding and sweating my ass off.

[Tony Meola]

Wow. That teardown was quick.

They do come apart easily. Can't wait to see her finished.

[Pete Fallon]

Shannon,
On the 2nd to last photo of the teardown, in the V berth area. Look under the white painted surface on the port side V berth just forward of the cross brace for the V berth supports that Caberra installed, the paper tag should be about 6 to 10 inches in front of the cross brace, down about 6 inches, from the un-painted glass, use some paint stripper, the paper tag is glassed into the hull in this area. If not there, look under the support for the aft section of the cockpit sole on the centerline down about 8 to 12 inches. If the boat is older than November 1972 the HIN number is stamped into the starboard stern about an inch down from the rub rail. I surveyed over 50 Bertram 31's in 20 years as a SAMS Surveyor.
Pete Fallon 561-310-7179 Leave a message if I don't answer I don't hear very well even with sound all the way up.

[Carl]

Ditto what Pete said about the tag, except mine is aft of the cross brace, forward of the bulkhead by 1 foot or so.

[S Ritzert]

Pete,
Around this area?

I will shoot you a text so you'll have my number. I have a ton of work that pays the bills to do today, I will try and have a look during the weekend. I've neglected my work load the past few weeks to work on personal stuff. I appreciate the info!!

[Carl]

My tag is about a foot or two aft of that spot Shannon