Looking for advice. Building a hardtop for sun protection. 7'x9'
Before I finish laying glass, is there anything I should add or think about?
Planning to add some conduit for wiring.
Would be disappointed if I didn't add something that would make it even better.
Thank you
Hardtop
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- Rick Jester
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Aug 9th, '21, 08:38
Hardtop
Rick Jester
1966 25 Express Cruiser
Hull 978
1966 25 Express Cruiser
Hull 978
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 7036
- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 21:24
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Re: Hardtop
Rick
Are you having someone weld up the supports or are you doing it?
I am in the process of talking with a couple of places in NJ about having a top made and installed. One of the things that came up has to do with the design so that you can have an enclosure made and installed without having any of the supports in the way.
One shop I talked with suggested having them install a track that the enclosure would fit into. That would eliminate the need for anyone putting snaps in any parts of the hard top.
I am sure you have in all the wiring for the electrical and making sure all the proper supports and backing plates in your current plans. Not sure what else might be out there but I am sure there is and someone will bring it up.
Are you having someone weld up the supports or are you doing it?
I am in the process of talking with a couple of places in NJ about having a top made and installed. One of the things that came up has to do with the design so that you can have an enclosure made and installed without having any of the supports in the way.
One shop I talked with suggested having them install a track that the enclosure would fit into. That would eliminate the need for anyone putting snaps in any parts of the hard top.
I am sure you have in all the wiring for the electrical and making sure all the proper supports and backing plates in your current plans. Not sure what else might be out there but I am sure there is and someone will bring it up.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
Re: Hardtop
I had a friend who came to my 28 and copied the dimensions and the curvature of my soft top. Essentially he measured the dimensions and curvature of the stainless bimini arches.
He then made a foam mock-up (using foam plaques like they use in home insulation, DOW I think) into which he cut rectangular through holes, into which he placed plywood pieces of the same thickness.
The idea was that those inserts would serve as anchor points for the frame underneath.
He also cut holes for eventual placing of solar panels on top.
He then covered both sides with glass, I don't know how many layers, but certainly many less than if the whole hardtop were to be only glass.
It is very important to have as little weight as possible that high.
Good luck!
He then made a foam mock-up (using foam plaques like they use in home insulation, DOW I think) into which he cut rectangular through holes, into which he placed plywood pieces of the same thickness.
The idea was that those inserts would serve as anchor points for the frame underneath.
He also cut holes for eventual placing of solar panels on top.
He then covered both sides with glass, I don't know how many layers, but certainly many less than if the whole hardtop were to be only glass.
It is very important to have as little weight as possible that high.
Good luck!
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
Re: Hardtop
Thoughts:
- hard pads in the lay up for mounting "stuff"....antennas, radar, anchor light, etc.
- add a box enclosure to store all the loose stuff from the helm area, VHF, etc. This is much easier to work with for wiring compared to home running everything through an aluminum support tube.
- Cockpit lights
- spreader lights fore and aft.
- maybe include structure in the aft area to allow attachment hooks for a cockpit shade?
- could use the top as a mount for navigation lights if you don't have the Bertram chock.
I was amazed at how useful the T-top box is in my hardtop. I store all sorts of useful stuff in there from sunscreen to charts to coozies.
- hard pads in the lay up for mounting "stuff"....antennas, radar, anchor light, etc.
- add a box enclosure to store all the loose stuff from the helm area, VHF, etc. This is much easier to work with for wiring compared to home running everything through an aluminum support tube.
- Cockpit lights
- spreader lights fore and aft.
- maybe include structure in the aft area to allow attachment hooks for a cockpit shade?
- could use the top as a mount for navigation lights if you don't have the Bertram chock.
I was amazed at how useful the T-top box is in my hardtop. I store all sorts of useful stuff in there from sunscreen to charts to coozies.
1963 Bertram 25
1973 Boston Whaler 13 - sold!
1998 Scout 172 SF - beach taxi
1973 Boston Whaler 13 - sold!
1998 Scout 172 SF - beach taxi
- Rick Jester
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Aug 9th, '21, 08:38
Re: Hardtop
Thanks for the responses.
I am modifying a Bertram flybridge hardtop, (helm removed), front windshield, and side windows.
1. I am currently removing the wet balsa core and replacing it with CarbonCore Structural Plastic Honeycomb Panels. The balsa is 1.5" thick
2. Using the flybridge windshield it's about 5" taller than my current windshield, more headroom. I am removing about 8" from each side of the windshield (16" total) to reduce the width and fit in place of my existing windshield.
3. I will be using the flybridge side windows, only I will be reducing the length by about 18-20".
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Never had or used spreader lights, how useful are they?
Cockpit shade, yes I am adding attachments for shade, I have an aluminum radar arch I plan to run a shade to.
I am modifying a Bertram flybridge hardtop, (helm removed), front windshield, and side windows.
1. I am currently removing the wet balsa core and replacing it with CarbonCore Structural Plastic Honeycomb Panels. The balsa is 1.5" thick
2. Using the flybridge windshield it's about 5" taller than my current windshield, more headroom. I am removing about 8" from each side of the windshield (16" total) to reduce the width and fit in place of my existing windshield.
3. I will be using the flybridge side windows, only I will be reducing the length by about 18-20".
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Yes, those are good ideas. Took the chock off, very old style unable to locate lens, replaced with anchor winch. Been thinking about where to put navigation lights.Add a box enclosure to store all the loose stuff from the helm area, VHF, etc. This is much easier to work with for wiring compared to home running everything through an aluminum support tube.
- Cockpit lights
- spreader lights fore and aft.
- maybe include structure in the aft area to allow attachment hooks for a cockpit shade?
- could use the top as a mount for navigation lights if you don't have the Bertram chock.
Never had or used spreader lights, how useful are they?
Cockpit shade, yes I am adding attachments for shade, I have an aluminum radar arch I plan to run a shade to.
1. I am planning on using the windshield and existing aluminum support in the front and cutting and moving the side fiberglass supports forward.One of the things that came up has to do with the design so that you can have an enclosure made and installed without having any of the supports in the way.
1. Yes, I am trying to remove as much weight as possible, I am amazed at how heavy the flybridge top is.It is very important to have as little weight as possible that high.
Rick Jester
1966 25 Express Cruiser
Hull 978
1966 25 Express Cruiser
Hull 978
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