Awlgrip

[wgiarratana]

Happy New Year to all, would anyone know what the closest Awlgrip white would be for a 73/74 28?. Used Imron last paint job.

[Carl]

Not really helpful aside from bumping your post… but I like Hatteras off white.

[Tony Meola]

Not sure by year but at one point it was Oyster White.https://minicraft.com/

Here is a thought, contact these people, https://minicraft.com/ and tell them that you are looking for the gel coat color for your boat. See if they can tell you what have. Then you can chase it down in Awlgrip.

[EarleyBird]

EarleyBird is getting painted in a month of so, giving her a 50 year old Birthday present. Contact Bill Griffin @ bill.griffin@akzonobel.com. He most likely will answer your questions, in addition send you various color charts and types of paints, directions and procedures. He has been very helpful to me. I am using Awlcraft 2000. Good Luck. Happy New Year all. EarleyBird

[JeremyD]

On my 1986 Bertram 28 - I used Awlgrip Oyster White and found it to be closest to the gel coat color

Cockpit side boards were refinished

[bob lico]

oyster white is the exact color of 31 Bertram gel-cote . that information from the master himself 20 years ago . i asked the same question and the "Captain" gave me the answer and so i painted my top side in Oyster White,

[Tony Meola]

EarleyBird is getting painted in a month of so, giving her a 50 year old Birthday present. Contact Bill Griffin @ bill.griffin@akzonobel.com. He most likely will answer your questions, in addition send you various color charts and types of paints, directions and procedures. He has been very helpful to me. I am using Awlcraft 2000. Good Luck. Happy New Year all. EarleyBird

Jim

Who is painting the boat? Are you using Pat?

[Raybo Marine NY]

There’s also a color called bertram white, I’ll see if I can put them side by side to compare with oyster white

Oyster white typically matches “old boat” whites which is what boats from the 70-80s have aged to. Like a bertram, mako, sea craft.

[EarleyBird]

Hello Tony,

Good to hear from you, hope you had a great boating/fishing year. Forsberg Boat Works in Point Beach will do the paint job. Just the hull, rub rail to the waterline ( outer-chine). She needs it. Topside has been re-gelled few years ago, that’s looking fairly good. Gotta renew a few seams in the cockpit deck, sand the covering boards, sand the bottom to barrier coat,little routine motor work, re-condition the DQX propellers, hopefully back in the water First of May. EarleyBird

[Tony Meola]

JIm

I have been contemplating an update as my topsides are really showing their age. I don't have any experience with Forsberg. I was going to give Pat a shot at it, but I heard he has a number of jobs going on and I really don't want the boat tied up forever.

I am getting older and if I don't do it in the next year or two, it probably will not get done by me. But my wife is on my case for some updates. I will have to check them out at some point.

Thanks

[Yannis]

Tony,

The repaint job is a royal pita. A royal indeed.
You have to remove everything from the deck, stanchions, rod holders, air intakes, bow and aft tie-ons, you name it...
We all know that sometimes (read: most of the times) those bastards are simply too stubborn to come off.
And then put them back on.

Also the cost is quite important.
I would NOT want a boat that is 50 years old to look like brand new, I like the patina of time.
Aren't all these enough justifications to try to convince your wife to perhaps propose to you another use for your funds? LOL
There is nothing negative in my mind if this job is taken up by somebody else, in the near or distant future.
Let alone that you will never recuperate your investment upon resale...

[Tony Meola]

Yannis

She will still come up to a great shine with some elbow grease. The issue I have is the crazing on the Fly Bridge. I have a spot or two that have some spots where the chicklets have popped out. Pretty soon that will expand.

You are right, never get your money back, but I just had a very close friend pass away. Makes me think about life and tomorrow may not come. So If I spend the money to fix her up, and don't make the following year, then it is my wife's issue and nieces and nephews will have to hope she does not blow the rest. But with the longevity in her family, I doubt there will be much left anyway. The assisted living or nursing home will get it.

[Yannis]

Tony,

Have you thought of synthetic (or real) teak to cover the floor of the flybridge?
Not much real estate, so, little cost, that will cover up the crazing spots, plus the new looks!
That latter has a lot of success with women!

[Carl]

Let alone that you will never recuperate your investment upon resale...

It's a boat, the money is recuperated with the smile it produces.

If a paint job, motors, or mermaid bench produces that smile, and if it is within your means, so be it.

[Amberjack]

She will still come up to a great shine with some elbow grease. The issue I have is the crazing on the Fly Bridge. I have a spot or two that have some spots where the chicklets have popped out. Pretty soon that will expand.

Tony, I'm with you. I buff out with light rubbing compound and then wax Amberjack every year and it looks great.

If you want to repair dings on your bridge MarineTex white is an almost perfect match for C-19 gelcoat. I've filled probably 100 old fastner holes that way and its hard to see where they were.

[Tony Meola]

Doug

I will give the Marine Tex a shot.

Yannis, The floor on the bridge is in great shape, it's the outside of the bridge. I really started crazing when we shrink wrapped it back in 2008, with clear shrink wrap. We used clear, so they could see when they worked on the repower over the winter.

I hate shrink wrap, but as I get older it seems to get harder putting the winter canvas on the boat.

[Yannis]

Tony,
When I bought the boat she had this full deck canvas cover from the rear lip of the flybridge down to the transom, with a pole in the middle to prevent water from pooling.
I did it once, did it twice, then ripped it all off, removed the metal pins from around the boat, glassed and gel coated all holes, no more cover I said.
Ten years later there is no harm on the deck or elsewhere,I figure I will go before the boat anyway...

Do you care to elaborate why transparent shrink wrapping causes crazing on the bridge sides? Thanks.

[Amberjack]

Tony- MarineTex will work well on chips, gouges and fastener holes, anything with some dimension. Doubt it would work on crazing or cracks, it’s too thick.

[Carl]

Do you care to elaborate why transparent shrink wrapping causes crazing on the bridge sides? Thanks.

I'd imagine the clear film would at times magnify the sun's rays. A combination of intense heat and moisture turning to steam/vapor I'd think would take a toll on the finish.

[Ironworker]

Yannis

She will still come up to a great shine with some elbow grease. The issue I have is the crazing on the Fly Bridge. I have a spot or two that have some spots where the chicklets have popped out. Pretty soon that will expand.

You are right, never get your money back, but I just had a very close friend pass away. Makes me think about life and tomorrow may not come. So If I spend the money to fix her up, and don't make the following year, then it is my wife's issue and nieces and nephews will have to hope she does not blow the rest. But with the longevity in her family, I doubt there will be much left anyway. The assisted living or nursing home will get it.

I've just gone through this on my boat. I've taken the bottom, fore deck and gunnels down to glass. I then added an additional layer of 1708 with epoxy resin, Seaguard 5000 primer and will repaint.

The existing gelcoat in all these areas just gave up from age. My boat was repainted about 5 years ago over the existing gelcoat and after just two years the new paint was cracking through. I didn't want that to happen again hence the new foundation layer of glass before painting.

I highly doubt anyone would go to this extreme but I have spared no expense or effort on the Carolina Reaper.

[Ironworker]

I've just gone through this on my boat. I've taken the bottom, fore deck and gunnels down to glass. I then added an additional layer of 1708 with epoxy resin on the deck and gunnels, Seaguard 5000 primer and will repaint. The hull was sanded smooth after sandblasting and 5 coats of Seaguard 5000 primer

The existing gelcoat in all these areas just gave up from age. My boat was repainted about 5 years ago over the existing gelcoat and after just two years the new paint was cracking through. I didn't want that to happen again hence the new foundation layer of glass before painting.

I highly doubt anyone would go to this extreme but I have spared no expense or effort on the Carolina Reaper.

[Joseph Fikentscher]

Shrink Wrap should be vented to avoid overheating and those hanging water vapor separator things should be put in a few places underneath.

[Yannis]

Carl, Joe, I got the point, thanks!

[Tony Meola]

Carl

I never had any crazing of the Gel until we did that. I am thinking the sun beating on it speeded up the aging process. Sorta like those girls you use to score a 10 until they spent about 10 years burning their skin in the sun. Then you started scoring them a 4.

In fact when we took the wrap off I was like What the !@#$ happened. Once we started cleaning things up and I took out the buffer, guys in the Marina where the repower was done started taking bets on if I could bring the gel coat back. Most of them thought I was wasting my time, but some compound, a paint cleaner, polish and then wax, and there was one guy that one a couple of dinners. He in fact owned a 35 and told the others it's a Bertram, it will shine.

That is a true story.

So like I said she shines but the bridge really took a hit with the crazing. The hull is fine. Actually, with the repair of a few spots, she probably could be painted with any major repair work on that area.

Thats what also makes me think the sun beating through the clear plastic did it. Plus, not the inside of the cabin, but the outside, on the hull area especially around the rub rail, she was getting mold. I assume from the drastic change from day to night, when it was hot then cold, I was getting a lot of condensation.

I am probably wrong but that is what all the signs seem to point to, clear shrink wrap.

[Yannis]

Shrink wrapping here is quite common, but not as common it is over there, simply because the weather here is milder and therefore a simple tarp or even nothing at all, would do.

However, I've seen all around wraps that are used for when there is a paint job to be done, so that the wind and whatever particles do not interfere with the fresh paint. These wraps are NOT placed directly on the boat, rather they are put around a scaffold so that people can work underneath.

I guess this scaffold/wrap combo is more expensive so that ppl prefer the direct-on the boat-wrap as you describe it.

[Joseph Fikentscher]

I always had white shrink wrap. not clear.

[Tony Meola]

Joe

Normally it is white. They wanted clear to work on the engine installation during the repower.

[JeremyD]

Just to keep this all in the same place - just finished my cockpit deck and got it back in place - Awlgrip Cloud White is close in color to the white starboard color