Yanmar 6lpa 0 oil pressure

[scenarioL113]

If it just the crankshaft I think you can reassemble yourself...

People are unbelievable and this is why I do EVERYTHING myself unless it is absolutely necessary to hire somebody...

I know most on this forum feel the same way

[Amberjack]

Mickey you have been an inspiration to me and probably most everyone else on the forum. Your work has been top quality and you have persevered where others would have quit. I’m confident you will put this last issue behind you and be sending us fish pictures in the near future.

As for this mechanic, he has shown you what he is by now and you’ve already taken the hit. I wouldn’t let him anywhere near the engines again. Get them buttoned up by a good Yanmar qualified mechanic who could spot any other latent issues while the engine is still out of the boat. Then take the original mechanic to small claims court for whatever you can get out of it. If you’re lucky maybe enough to pay for the Yanmar mechanic and the replacement parts.

I’ve run Yanmar 315’s in Amberjack for 18 years and been very happy with them. Get yours right and you will be also.

[Amberjack]

….In fact this Forum thread would be all the evidence you need to present a slam dunk case.

[micky]

My lawyer (Hueso) has been guiding me in how to play this.

[Carl]

I really don't want to ask...but here I go anyway, what, if anything was "done" to the other motor by him.

The issue "s" found with this motor developed on your short ride to the slip. What's the chances the other one was done right. I'm hoping you say that motor was good and just needed some painting.


I'll say it for you, life is not fair.
I admire your dedication to always pushing forward, and getting the job done to your standards when the so-called "professionals" do not seem capable of doing so.

I do not like hearing about lawyers getting involved except when they have to. In this case, I am very glad to hear you are under the advisement of a good lawyer and listening to him.

Keep pushing forward and I know you will get to that finish line.

[micky]

I think about the other engine every day and if I had money to spare I would pull it out also just to check but that one is working fine, 50 psi cold, 30 psi hot.

[Carl]

It's one thing if the motor was original and not touched, or messed with. It's another if he went in leaving his handy work behind him.
I am thinking about the leaking oil pan, bearing caps not torqued correctly (loose), dirt and contaminants. If he was in the top end...
Stuff that can cause a major issue if it let go when running.


To me, this was the pink elephant in the room. Obvious...but sometimes not. I'm sure you'll be going through this one checking to see if anything throws up a red flag or not. You are aware and that's all I wanted to verify.

[Geebert]

To me, this was the pink elephant in the room.

I thought the expression was white elephant?
Pink elephants are from dumbo

[Carl]

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Oh no, it's a one Pink for sure.
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[micky]

My dad told me today to take the other engine out as soon as I put this one in so…..

[micky]

So took the engine out of the boar this morning and took it to my dads shop. Started disassembling it and found that the rear seal is old, the gasket for the turbo oil drain is old, the gasket for the front of the engine (cooling system) is old. All the front gears are new and were installed correctly. Oil pump is old. To replace it I have to remove the whole front of the engine, all the gears, injection pump, water pump, etc.

I turned the engine around 180 degrees and to remove rods 2 and 5 I had to use the milwakee 1/2 impact in setting #4 to remove those bolts. All the other bolts joining the 2 halves of the block were correct.

I'm really thinking that the issue was rod #6 being loose. I'm making the parts list to order the parts on monday.

[scenarioL113]

OK, you are on your way now to get this problem fixed! It sucks but this is the way to do it.

[Tony Meola]

Hope all ends well for you. Too bad the mechanic will not for the right thing.

[micky]

Finished the teardown today and ALL bearings are bad. Mains and rod.

Rod bearings (6)













Mains

[scenarioL113]

OK, now you know where it is at...get that crank miked out and pray it is still serviceable and go from there buddy

[micky]

Still finding issues:

In between the block and bearing cap there is an oil passage for the sump, in between the block and bearing cap it uses a gasket (see pic of manual) and the guy installed an o-ring....

[Carl]

Micky- I am going to attempt a feeble twist on what's happening to offer a silver lining.

Yes, it sucks you're going through this after all you went through with the rest of the boat.

If there is a good side, you caught the low oil pressure warning and heeded it, you did not proceed to a sea trial anyway. What would be even worse is IF you took the boat for a ride and blew a motor or possibly two. What it looks like from here is you still have very rebuildable motors to work with...yes you paid the guy to do this very thing for you, but has anything on "From Scratch" gone easy? You named that boat what you did because YOU did nearly everything on that boat yourself ...Now you can say You DId Everything yourself From Scratch on From Scratch.

Not one of my best pep-talks Mikey, but in a lousy, very ass backwards way, you are lucky to have found this out in the semi best way not making matters worse. I just keep thinking of a bearing seizing up or a cap coming loose while running. Now that would be a huge, major expensive setback.

Soon, soon you Will relax and enjoy her.

[scenarioL113]

That is crazy! That O-Ring would be another point that would give a loss of oil pressure. Sometimes there are parts that supercede and an update "may" have changed it to some sort of O-Ring but I DOUBT IT.

The O-Ring might seal initially BUT would probably allow oil pressure to bleed out as the oil reaches operating temperature.

I had a similar situation with one of my cummins engines and had to substitute a "gasket" on a similar passageway bc my Cummins OEM kit had a wrong pan gasket and I had to "improvise". It worked OK but I would idle at 8PSI when warm. The next season I changed to the right gasket and PSI is 20 at idle now when warm. Never again...

That looks to me like someone improvised bc they did not want to wait for parts or buy parts

[micky]

Things took a turn for the worst. Yanmar mechanic went today to check the engine and found that the block is cracked on the inside, on the outside the other guy used epoxy and painted over it. Also found that 1 of the rods was ground down with a grinder. Also all the rods were cut where the blue circle is. Look at all of them and all are different. Rods, pistons are not Yanmar Original, on the oil cooler they used silicone instead of a gasket, the heat exchanger and manifold gaskets are not new.

Hueso is going to have his hands full

[Tony Meola]

Micky

Not sure how it is down there, but up here in the States before you can get anywhere with this guy, he would probably apply for bankruptcy and walk away.

I hope you have some recourse. He should really be out of business.

[mike ohlstein]

Wow. What a hack, and by that I obviously mean crook.

[Amberjack]

At least you have clarity. This wasn't a well intentioned but incompetent mechanic, this guy was a crook who intended to defraud you from the get go.

I am impressed the engines ran at all! Yanmar 315's are tougher than I thought.

[scenarioL113]

I am just shocked about the cracked block... I would think even a hacker would have tried to weld it...

The connecting rods may have been grinded to match the weight from one to another... They may have been different or aftermarket, I remember my father weighing connecting rods and "taking off" with the grinder on race engines to blueprint them back in the day. I do not think that is the case here tho.

If you have a highly experienced welder the block could possibly be saved. I personally dont know how critical the area is on your block but it could be possible. I would not be in love with the situation but if I had no choice I would go for it....like I said if you have a welder that knows his shit....cast iron is tricky

[Carl]

I learned about stitching cracks and breaks in cast iron here from our resident machining guru Harry Babb. He was kind enough to send the kit to me to play with...
Luckily I did not have anything to fix nor had I needed to in some time. The process is pretty simple, time-intensive, but simple. At least when compared to welding cast iron the right way...clean, prep, preheat, weld, post-heat or risk developing cracks, porosity, and or distortion. I was taught by a great welder that I'd hand that block to without batting an eyebrow. He did a huge obsolete cast iron gearbox that was in pieces with locating dowels, seals 30 plus years ago that is still in service. A good portion of a week to complete. Me, I wouldn't touch it and I've done lots of cast iron....than again I am not a welder.


Here's a link.

http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html

[micky]

The issue is this Yanmar block are an alloy of aluminum and teflon. Plus I paid for good engines not this POS.