Bertram 25 conversion to an outboard powered CC

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Apr 18th, '22, 07:56

Friday night I did get a little time in and installed the vhf antenna mount with some goop and bolted it up, when I went to drill the hole for the antenna cable to go through the roof I encountered something that I wasn't expecting, the end of the antenna had a nice factory end on it which didn't fit through either of the cable grommets I had.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4oAabTvBBtGVmaPw8

Question? cut the factory end of the cable and use one of the cable seals that I have or go find a larger cable seal?

I went to drill out the hole for livewell /washdown fill through-hull scoop and during the renovation I had glued down a new base pad and glassed it to the hull. The location had been drilled years ago so there was already a hole there so I matched up the hole saw size and drilled out from the bottom. I put the scoop in from the bottom and jammed a chunk of 2x4 under it to hold it in place to work on it and went into the bilge where I found quite a bit of the bilge paint I spent WAY TO MUCH TIME doing prep and making look pretty was flaking of in large chunks. Nothing can describe how frustrated I am that that paint failed so quickly. If you look through this whole thread, I had a lot of issues with bilge paint specifically Jamestown distributors paint not curing and had to strip it off and do it over again and looking back at this I wasted an awful lot of time and should have just found some type of epoxy based tie coat and then gelcoated the bilge.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/GHerxbgwhPKLBe5P6
Next chunk - not major but a pain anyways - when I glued down the chunk of ply and covered it, I didn't get the angle exactly right to match the bottom, trying to screw on the seacock, it was rubbing. I am going to have to mark off the radius of the circle that it spins around and grind down 1/8" from one side so I can get the seacock screwed on tight.

On a positive note, Saturday I did work on the house and spent most of the day working with my father in law who is a carpenter, towards the end of the day I leveraged his vast amount of knowledge and experience to help me make a template for the engine bracket (easy part) and figure out the center line and get good layout lines for placing the bracket on the transom.

Having no good reference lines to figure out the center of the boat, we placed a board on the angle portion of the bump out and then used a pencil to scribe a line on the edge of the transom then measured up from the bottom of the transom 2 different heights on both sides, from there we measured across and found the center at 2 different heights and marked the center line by connecting the points. We then worked on the height by holding a piece of straight 1"X2" pine on the keel along with a drywall square to get a perpendicular line up then measured the 30" up from the keel line.

I had some junk bolts and did a test fit, I will get new bolts and goop it up next good weather day, till then I taped off the holes that were drilled out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ux53VkqUeKoyuP176

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Apr 21st, '22, 14:24

Get a Blue Seas cable Clam and retain the factory plug!

https://www.google.com/search?q=cable+c ... e&ie=UTF-8

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Apr 25th, '22, 07:25

2nd on the blue seas clamp solution.

Your bracket height looks about the same as mine. I used a similar method to "estimate" the vertical center of the transom. There is no absolute datum.

https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/zH ... M-jk7vN60a

A couple of notes:
- with a fixed bracket there is no way to tilt the engine all the way out of the water. Not a big deal for you.
- I think the 10" setback was far too much for my application with the Evinrude. The engine has a few inches of set back built into the bracket which pushes it even further back. The water coming off the transom is turbulent and some props I tried did not have a good grip. Be prepared to test props.
- I think my bracket is a bit high. I would drop it 1-2 inches if doing it again. I can only lift an inch or 2 (on plane) before the prop starts to cavitate. With the big Enertia prop I am able to trim the engine 30 degrees on plane and pick up a few mph. Not so with any other props I tried. Love that prop.

These are "tweaks". The boat is running great. 30 mile off shore running Saturday in 2 foot rollers, the boat was happy at 28mph getting 3.0 mpg. Clean bottom, light load.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Apr 25th, '22, 08:37

I've been getting my house ready to paint and far too much of my time has been going that way, Sunday I got in a few hours of work, it was cold and raw out so I did some wiring / installing of electrical components

In response to the other points, I will be in the market for a few different cable seals, been measuring them up so I get ones where I can fit through the head
1. Radar Cable - essentially .5" cat 5 connector
2. Vhf Antenna - shown earlier
3. Transducer through transom - https://photos.app.goo.gl/z9SBaDsHjxxX6YV97 I am thinking of putting it in the motor well area near the main engine harness and hydraulic steering lines.

I started by cleaning up the layout lines and then installing the B&G Displays, I needed to do a bit of filing to get them exactly level with one another, the one drilled hole in between will be the center bore hole for the Suzuki gauge - I am going to save the $40 in buying the hole saw and let the shop cut it out.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/RTGmduWAnGAKABfR9

I then moved onto installing the Suzuki shifter (PITA - as the bolts slide into slots in the base and aren't held in well so to get all 4 lined up and in the hole took some fun). The VHF and Fusion stereo followed, lots more filling to get the holes just right and I had to oversize drill the holes for the back side mounts, lastly I worked on the upper switch panel getting that screwed in.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bwZkCXvoYjuBGrTt6

I moved on to the upper wiring and installed the upper patch panel and fuse panel on the underside of the doghouse roof and ran some cable supports using the bolts from the VHF antenna and all-around light where I could.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/u5bXHXkXxYejSuBJ7

After that pic, I cleaned up the wiring some more, made up some #6 power cables going from the main panel up to the upper panel, Ran NMEA2000 from the VHF down to below, setup a backbone down low and ran NMEA2000 to my 2 displays and hooked up the power cables to my main displays

I've got lots of wiring and more specifically labeling to do I bought a bunch of shrink wrap labels but didn't contemplate how many different connections so in some places I do not have a label on both sides, I purchased one of those label makers and will label a bunch more as time goes on.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Apr 26th, '22, 13:45

Windshield wiper thoughts - cold and raining today over lunch so I did some design thinking.

I have a windshield wiper which came off my Bertram when she had a windshield and I have been storing it for years, I pulled it out and have done some testing to prove that it still works.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2PShTXEGb5b8cRPq8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bDAhpULYMbtqib4N6

When I built the doghouse, I put a lip on the inside so I could make a panel and hide all my electrical components.

Option #1 - If I place the wiper motor above the lip I don't have a lot of blade sweep on the windshield, it doesn't seem like it would work out well.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/R3WjwNq2W78E7Dvk8

Option #2 - If I put it below the lip I would need to partially cover the inside flange of the window frame (this pic was taken a while back when I was testing the window fit.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oXUBGaKQDNcjgWkT7

Would it look funky if I made a piece of material the same thickness as the window flange and put that piece above the window frame and then installed the wiper motor 1/2 on the window frame flange 1/2 off?

your thoughts?

BillVT · Post by **BillVT** » Apr 28th, '22, 07:11

Perhaps mount the motor up high and use a long pantograph arm to get the reach and the sweep you need?

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Apr 28th, '22, 07:50

it is supposed to be reasonably warm this weekend so I am going to try to get the windows in and figure out how much of the flange I need to cover if I put it under the lip.

There is one more option I didn't originally think of and that is to cut out a portion of the lip to fit in the size of the wiper motor.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Apr 28th, '22, 19:26

It was stupid cold out after work, I spent 15 min to layout cut positions for my bilge pump thru-hulls and my hands got cold so I decided to play with the electronics because I could sit under the console out of the wind and do some wiring. I wired up the power supplies to my 2 displays then setup the NMEA2000 backbone and hooked up the nmea cable to the VHF.

I was able to get the 2 displays and the VHF linked
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5PkrZ3hY5N3Eupcw9
and created a waypoint on one and it auto synchronized to the other

I scratched my head a bit on the VHF as I could see the VHF showing on the list of devices on the NMEA network on both of the displays but the GPS location didn't show up on the VHF, a little bit of RTFM and I was able to setup the VHF to use the GPS as a position location. I still need to get a cable seal for the transducer and radar so I can run the cables.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 2nd, '22, 09:11

Hi All,

I screwed up pretty bad this weekend, I drilled the holes for the thru-hulls for my macerator and livewell drains on my transom about 2" below my deck. I set them up kind of like dual exhaust on either side of the transom - https://photos.app.goo.gl/2Rj8mXKjNeAhW4PA8

My screw up is that I did not take in consideration that there is a 14 degree angle on the transom which angles anything up towards my deck.

I cut out the floor inside the storage module on the transom thinking that it would give me the room that I need and unfortunately it does not.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/RGu7sEbyuzcua1H77
under deck view
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wpc1pp2fQ6vKYcXs6

I am looking for options which retain a full shut off valve and keeps any components from rubbing on the deck, the last thing I want is a 1.5" hole at my waterline.

I see the issue at hand as one of length, the existing setup has the thru-hull, a clamp inside the transom, 1/2" of pipe thread then the valve and a hose connector. I had a length of threaded pipe and a marelon hose barb.

Options for making it shorter
1. cut thru-hull down, use the valve body as the inside clamp, get a marelon barb that screws into the valve body @ $20 in new hose barbs and an hour or so in cutting down the thru hulls
- I am not sure that using the valve body as the clamp is the right thing to do

2. looking through Hamilton marine , there are 45 degree pipe fittings out of bronze, I could leave the thru-hull as is with the clamp, screw on the 45 degree pipe fitting, then the length of threaded pipe, then the valve and purchase hose barbs that screw in, $80 for the 45 and $20 for marelon hose barbs, less effort as everyhing screws together.
- I am not sure that I want a bronze fitting in the middle of the chain, the stainless valve is quite heavy and would work on the 45 fitting, I am not sure that is something that I want under the deck and to worry about it breaking.

3. cut thru-hull down, buy new replacement marelon seacock as well as a 120 degree hose barb - $150 a side
- this should be sound as well as cleanest, modest effort in cutting down thru-hulls

Suggestions on which you would choose or if you have other options?

Carl · Post by **Carl** » May 2nd, '22, 10:47

If the problem is just the 14 deg angle screwing you up...change it back to zero with a set of 14 deg angled spacers. Kind of like a fairing block to straighten out the deadrise with a through hull transducer.

She's looking great!

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » May 2nd, '22, 11:20

I agree with Carl. Make a fiberglass puck big enough for the thru hull to go through and thick enough to accommodate the 14 degree angle. Drill the hole with hole saw and then saw the puck in two on the 14 degree angle on a table saw. Viola, two 14 degree wedges! paint them before you put them on and they won't even mess up your paintjob!

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 2nd, '22, 11:24

another option grainger has a 45 degree elbow with NPT in 316 stainless - I may go with this to reduce custom fabrication
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAING ... teel-1LTB9

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » May 2nd, '22, 12:36

That will work if the 30 degree down angle isn't a problem. Here it would cause a freeze issue in the winter. I would think it would an Massachusetts too.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 2nd, '22, 13:31

good point!!! I may need an offsetting hose barb or excess in loop in hose (I did leave the hose quite long) . Right now I just need to get the boat water tight again so I can get the motor installed, from there as long as I can keep the valve turned off, I will buy myself some time to figure it out better.

I think the critical thing you pointed out was what I need to do to winterize, the livewell drain is pure gravity feed so I will need to put some RV antifreeze in and get it to come out the drain, my fishboxes drain via a macerator pump on the other side of the boat and I will need to do some thing there as well, that setup does have a one way valve insert so I am guessing fill both with RV antifreeze till the pink stuff comes out the drains?

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » May 2nd, '22, 18:54

Sounds like a good plan to me as long as you put in enough antifreeze to displace the water so it does not dilute the antifreeze.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 3rd, '22, 12:09

The big Brown and the White trucks showed up over lunch, the yellow one is scheduled for today too.

New hydraulic steering ram in one, 45 degree pipe fittings in the other

I think the 45 pipe fitting will solve my thru-hull issue

Top view
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WBQ2UBhkcEmrPNJ46
When tilted down and towards the center of the boat it angles the valve towards the center
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JBUJ4LkeUZbMkq8v7
I will have to assemble this whole thing as a unit as the handle for the valve will hit the underside of the deck when spinning on, if I tilt it down somewhat and get the valve on then turn the 45 fitting higher towards the deck it can all come together nicely. I will use pipe dope on the fittings to get a good seal and put some type of clamp to hold it up towards the underside of the deck. End game with a 45 degree nipple to connect the hose I will have created a S in the line and it should stay at one consistent level.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/e8Wk9P83QNnubs9s7

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » May 3rd, '22, 14:25

My original post did not. Are you mixing pipe and straight threads? That thru-hull should be straight thread. Mixing is not a good idea.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 3rd, '22, 19:14

Cam I am dumb, really dumb sometimes ................ I do appreciate you double checking me

All the threads, thru-hull , nipple, elbow, ordered hose nipple is all NPT - I think National Pipe Tapered Thread. my Dad was a machinist and made high end taps and dies to feed aerospace contractors for a living so he knew all about threads, I heard it enough growing up so this is something I am quite cognizant of.

In talking with a person at Gemlux he said the industry folks are converting over to nps so it is quite easy to mix the thread types and get yourself in trouble.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » May 4th, '22, 06:05

Hmm...fully threaded long NPT thru hulls, that's interesting.

Are they making the end NPT, then continuing with a straight mechanical NPS thread to the flange? It's the only way I see it working with a locking jam nut. I may just order one to check out.

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » May 4th, '22, 06:56

Highly weird. Torqueing down the NPT end offers a great opportunity to snap off that long, thin section tube. In fact, how would you apply torque to that pipe adapter? There's nothing to hold onto unless you want to ruin the threads with a clamp, or have someone under the boat securing the thru-hull with a wrench. I'll stick with NPS and the flanged Grocos as they are bulletproof.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 4th, '22, 07:57

here are the items in question, all state NPT

thru-hull - there is quite a bit of play in the nut to threads, it can be slid sided to side and top to bottom, there is no play when screwed into the valve or elbow.
https://gemlux.com/collections/forged-t ... ducts/2934

elbow
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAING ... tems_1LTB9

ball valve - note I couldn't find a 1.5" one but it is the same design - also they had a crazy sale where I got them for $50 each
https://gemlux.com/collections/marine-b ... oducts/811

pipe nipple
https://gemlux.com/collections/marine-p ... ducts/4198

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 4th, '22, 16:20

I have no luck, NONE!!!!!!!

I couldn't find 316 stainless bolts locally to bolt my bracket to the boat so I ordered from Ebay from a seller who states that they are in CT, aka normally 1-2 days shipping time, this was Wednesday last week. Still no bolts today, I tracked the package, last tagged as in Carolina PR, yes Puerto Rico, Maybe some of our friends down there could take advantage of them

mike ohlstein · Post by **mike ohlstein** » May 5th, '22, 11:35

ktm_2000 wrote: ↑May 4th, '22, 07:57 here are the items in question, all state NPT

elbow
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAING ... tems_1LTB9

ball valve - note I couldn't find a 1.5" one but it is the same design - also they had a crazy sale where I got them for $50 each
https://gemlux.com/collections/marine-b ... oducts/811

The elbow is available from McMaster Carr in 316 for $20 less. I'm assuming that this is a low pressure application....
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-pipe- ... +ballvalve

Whatever ball valves you use, make sure that they are 'full flow'. Most are not.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » May 5th, '22, 14:38

ktm_2000 wrote: ↑May 4th, '22, 16:20 Still no bolts today,

Order today, receive tomorrow.
Pricey, yes, BUT order today, receive tomorrow

https://www.mcmaster.com/bolts/super-co ... +ballvalve

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » May 5th, '22, 19:45

One of my favorite sites. Order by 6pm and it is at my office in Virginia by 11am next day!

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 6th, '22, 07:42

I took advantage of the warm weather after work last night, I put in the windows to the dog house then opened a tube of 4200 and moved on to final install of a bunch of parts: the chain pipe in front deck, pvc pipes that I ran my wires through the deck inside the console, my bilge pump thru-hulls, engine harness rigging tube.

It was dark by the time I was done so no pretty pics

I did put test fit the windshield wiper above the lip of the window frame and it is probably going to be off by the slightest bit from fitting just above the flange. After my thru-hull escapade dealing with the angled deck I am a bit gun shy about drilling a hole before I know exactly what I am dealing with as the front panel of the doghouse is angled and the lip is level making an inside corner to fit the motor into. I am going to cut a piece of 2x4 and attach whatever else it takes to make a full size replica which matches the largest dimensions in any direction of the body of the motor and make sure it fits before I drill a hole.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 6th, '22, 07:49

Mike,

They are full flow - nice looking and very heavy
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PJ3expwc1EdrXSMY6

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 18th, '22, 07:51

I haven't been posting much lately. working 50+ hrs a week, trying to get my house ready to sell and the boat keeps getting pushed to the back of the list.

No pics but, I've got the bracket on, thru-hulls in, extra braces under the deck holding the doghouse down, engine wiring harness run, NMEA2000 network setup as well as a bunch of small items complete. I hope to get the fuel lines run and power switch and negative power post on tonight, hydraulic ram tomorrow night and find some time to get the trailer registered so I can bring the boat to the dealer for the engine install. MA is a pain with boat trailers, I need an insurance stamp every year, another trip...

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 19th, '22, 07:50

I was able to spend some time last night and got my rear battery switch and negative power post setup with some stainless studs drilled, 4200 sealed and installed
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fNwLGHNAPJ2fadej6

I also got my manifold to select which fuel pickup installed - I hate 4200 - I will probably repaint the inside at some point since I made such a mess with it.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/p13xKkcjUtUWcEUn7

No pics on this one but I hooked up the hydraulic steering lines to the back side of the bulkhead fittings which go through the splashwell.

As it got dark I finished by working on the windshield wiper, I probably could have gone 3/4" higher but was going to have to cover part of the interior window flange so I gave myself some extra room

inside view
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zfG2e16x4cBNxZVc9
outside
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PdyRMGoDo6oyGDQd9

Carl · Post by **Carl** » May 19th, '22, 09:09

You hate 4200 and made a mess...

LOL...you ain't seen nothing! I make such a mess with any kind of silicone, adhesive or kind of chalking ESPECIALLY from a chalking gun that I really amaze myself.

The only thing I can make more of a mess with is a can of that insulation "Good Stuff". Last time I carefully filled a void around a window. Apparently, the straw thingy went too far and the Good Stuff shot out covering the bushes and trees under the window. I thought I got it all off with a nice tree n bush trim...but my wife did find some remnants on a couple of things when she got home.
What's worse than that is trying to clean it up before it sets...sticky does not even begin to explain how sticky that stuff gets as it smears when you try to wipe it.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 19th, '22, 09:32

great stuff - low expansion = NOT

on the homefront I replaced my front door with a new fiberglass door with my father in law, he did the carpentry side of it to make it plumb and level and before I trimmed out the inside I attempted to foam it in. I used the low expansion stuff and filled up the gap to the rough framing leaving some excess room, it took about 1/2hr and I thought it was done expanding, I came back 2hrs later and it expanded significantly more, sticking out 3-4" and had wrapped around the edge of the door, took me quite a bit of time to get the crap off the brand new door, of course it got into the hinges so I had to take the door off to clean the hinges.

I would have thought that after almost 3 hours it would have cured but cutting off the excess I got uncured on me, nasty stuff.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » May 19th, '22, 10:08

All sorts of silicone, silicone guns and foams = DISASTER !
More time spent in cleaning than applying...let alone the destroyed pants and fleece jackets and curses and high blood pressure and......

Carl · Post by **Carl** » May 19th, '22, 10:15

hmmm starting to sound like a Bertram owners thing.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Jun 21st, '22, 20:27

I haven't done much on my boat for quite some time. I get so close to getting her done and finally get a motor but life steps in my way and priorities are priorities, unfortunately the boat has fallen down the list. We've been denied school choice in our city so we've been getting our house ready to sell in order to get my kids in a better school. Lots of house renovations and I just haven't had time for the boat.

I got out of work late so I thought as a pick me up I would do a "simple job" on the boat and thought it would be a 30 min thing to install the wire seals to allow my vhf and radar cables through my doghouse roof. Yeah not so much..... inside each cable seal is a rubber puck, I chose scanstrut seals and they come with an assortment of pucks, we'll as usual for me I went 2 for 2 with none of the pucks fitting either the VHF cable or the radar cable. The VHF was close enough with the hole a little too big so I put a dab of 5200 on the cable seal puck as it surrounds the cable and it seems to be good enough.

The Radar cable is another story, it measures .34" on my digital caliper and doing some math the closest drill bit is 11/32", I don't know how common that size is, I haven't tried to find one at a store yet.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jun 21st, '22, 21:08

Doesn't that come to a size of 17/50. Never seen that one before. I would lay the wire next to your drill bits to compare sizes and see which one comes the closest to working.

I would also try measuring again just in case you made a mistake. I tend to need to keep reminding myself to reset the caliper.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Jun 21st, '22, 21:32

Tony,

I did check a bunch of times and my caliper doesn't need to be reset to read right
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xaeF7jE67tUNkaDfA

When googling I came across this page which states common drill sizes so I did the math to see which was closest
https://homerepairgeek.com/define/drill-bit-sizes.html

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Jun 22nd, '22, 05:25

11/32 is a bit in most drill sets so it shouldn’t be hard to find

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Jun 22nd, '22, 06:31

Sorry to hear you have to move to maintain your liberty.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jun 22nd, '22, 08:21

11/32 is a common size, shouldn't be a problem to get one. If not I can send you one.

You could also go up a hair to a 9mm drill (.354")

Life gets in the way... you're not kidding!
But when you get back to your project after the kinks get worked out, it makes the work feel so much better with a new appreciation for being able to dabble in projects of choice.

Maybe not exactly true, but that's how I get/got through the days, weeks, months, and years of Life getting in the way.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Jun 22nd, '22, 10:05

I haven't looked for the bit yet, if it is common I should be able to find one locally.

I am close on the house project, house should be on the market by middle of July, the boat has to be out of the driveway for the sale so I need to get that done enough to get the motor on, I've skinny'd down the list of good enough on the boat project so I will be trying to mix in those tasks as I go.

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Jun 23rd, '22, 15:44

Wow, you have as many irons in the fire as I do!

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Jun 24th, '22, 07:14

I was able to get the 11/32" drill bit and tried drilling out the rubber puck, it went through the rubber but not a clean hole. I've put the puck in the freezer and will try re-drilling the hole when I get a chance.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Jul 6th, '22, 14:15

I'm going to do some hating on Navico..........

I took the day off to work on the boat and didn't get too far, spent a little over an hour getting the steering ram setup and bleeding out the air bubbles from the system, miracles never cease, I got the hoses setup right the 1st time.

I then moved onto getting the radar powered up and testing, that is where it went south fast. I chased the wire, got it all setup and connected the ethernet cable and the radar just wouldn't power up, I switched displays, no luck. I tried reconnecting multiple times, no good. Searching the interwebs I found a manual and, tested and had power at the right pins, then in reading the manual it talked about needing power to the yellow "power control wire" I had the power control wire hooked up to the power control wire coming off the display, why wasn't it working?? I tried opening a case with Navico, and they are pretty good about not giving out a number for anyone to call them, you have to fill out a web form and they promptly don't call you back.

I decided to put the power control wire direct to 12v and the unit powered up, great

but why didn't it turn on when I turned on the display, funny you should ask that simple question, I had to do quite a bit more searching and got a manual for the display. Well Navico in there infinite wisdom, uses the "power control wire" on the displays to be able to turn the display on, not to control any other device.

I am not sure if I am better off running a switch or leaving the radar unit powered up and on standby all the time as the manual states 3.9watts on standby. I do typically turn off power to all my electronics when I am not using the boat so it wouldn't be on all the time, just when I am on the boat.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jul 6th, '22, 21:02

Strange that they would want it running all the time. I am with you, I kill everything when I leave the boat. The only thing directly wired to be hot are the bilge pumpls.

I would put it on a switch, but I would want them to explain the reason they want it live all the time. That means you need a battery charger on all the time. If for some reason you have no power to the charger, you will find a dead battery at some point.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Aug 11th, '22, 09:21

Stuff has been happening on the boat, SLOWLY... our house is going on the market next week and I've got to get the boat out of the driveway so I've been spending some time on the boat.

Last friday I repacked the wheel bearings on the trailer, word of advice, those center caps with the rubber inserts leak, I had them on my back axle wheels and the outer bearings were rusted and needed replacement.

I've been working on the hatch frame to the cabin and put up another post asking advice on the carpentry. Lots of angles and precision creates havoc on my mental midget brain.

Lastly I have been clearing out my basement trying to install items onto the boat so I don't have to store them. Last night I installed all the plastic hatches, putting 2 screws in each to temp hold them and then drilled out the holes for the stern rod holders. I did all lees HD 2" rod holders with the long bases, zero degree swivels on either side of the motor. I have a distinct desire to catch some BFT and the HD will come in handy but I think they are a bit overkill.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oqxtdsTyM2AJX8MW9

The 4 lee's 30 degree standard rod holders I used to have on the side gunnels will be installed forward with one set near the front bulkhead facing 45 degrees forward, the other set I am not so sure about. One thought is that they will be inline with the helm facing 90 degrees away from the boat for a quick spot to put down a rod and drive. After a friend told me about filling his rod-holder with gas, mentioning to a few others besides Carl who then told me that they did the same thing. Most stories have been the person's friend was helping them gas up and put it in the rod holder but I am concerned that I am more than capable of not paying attention and gassing up the rod-holder if I put the one rod holder near the gas fill so I might not put one on the port side. The other thought would be to place the rod holders further forward closer to the mid cleats and at that position they would be great for jigging wire line rods while driving.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oqxtdsTyM2AJX8MW9

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Aug 12th, '22, 09:21

I put in the forward rod holders in last night and reinstalled my mid ship cleats. The gunnels are wide enough that I was able to make sure that the but end of the rod holders did not stick out past the plane of the inside top cap edge
https://photos.app.goo.gl/o8SCUNHi86qehSjz5

-30 degree lee standard holder, angled 45 degree out towards the bow
-30 degree lee standard holder, pointed 90 degrees out, 6" forward of where I enclosed the side of the gunnels which is also @2' forward of my fuel fill

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Aug 18th, '22, 13:54

I had to get my boat out of the driveway over lunch today for real estate photographer to take pics of the house, so I parked the truck in a nearby supermarket and waited for the photographer to work. It was the first time I was able to get any distance away from the boat to see what the lines looked like.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TT87CWavBoyc2gT49

I still have my honda mistake, after putting marvel mystery oil in the one low compression cylinder for multiple weeks and running the engine repeatedly on a stand the last time I checked the engine's compression it was within 5% of the other cylinders. I haven't had time to sell the motor and have to get it out of my house so I am going to install it on the boat and use the boat to trailer it to my other house. It is far too much effort to drain the oil and put it on the shipping crate and lift the crate into my truck, bolting the motor on the boat will take a lot less time. I can reverse the process at my cape house and put it back on the engine stand there. My buddy is coming by to help me and I'm guessing less than 2hrs to get the motor bolted up and get the engine stand in the back of the truck

Friday's pics should be of what she looks like with the 250 honda hanging on the back. I am on vacation next week and since the boat will have a motor on it, I might just have to do just enough to take the boat for a short ride before putting the engine back on the engine stand.

I don't want to install anything of the honda if possible and was thinking of using a spare piece of 1x6 pine and having it lean on the dash panel and over onto my leaning post to temporarily locate the shifter, the wiring harness and shift cables would be left loose on the deck, the main battery cables and fuel would hook up to the main points on the boat. It would look Ghetto for sure but I think it would be good enough to be able to take the boat for a ride. after all the stress of getting my house ready to sell, I need a fix bad, even a 1hr ride on the boat would be amazing and help out alot.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Aug 18th, '22, 14:11

Wow, she's coming out nicely. I love the proportions.

I agree an hour or two of running the boat will recharge your batteries.
I don;t know how you guys do the long rebuilds without getting out to enjoy some of the fruits.

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Aug 19th, '22, 11:59

Nice! Boat sits nice on the trailer. Do you know the model # for that trailer? I need a new one, but I hesitate since I use it so infrequently.

I like the dog house...very New England look. It would be a sweat box down here without opening windows, however.

Run the Honda? I thought your Suzuki was in?

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Aug 19th, '22, 12:33

Cam,

The trailer is a venture 7200# model with bunks. I got it in 2008 and It originally came with 4 drum brakes but they rotted out and I replaced with Kodiak Disk brakes. Other than the brakes which I improved upon I think the trailer is quite stout and could serve well over the 7200# capacity, each axle and spring combo are rated for 7200#.

I've had to replace all the wear items such as bearings and in 2016 I did have a spring break and replaced all the springs ( rinse your trailer every use as well as smear grease on the leaf springs. If I were to do it over again, I would pay for the kodiak disc brakes up front as well as torsion axles.

the Honda, I am purely moving it from point a to b with the least amount of effort, since will be on the boat I may take it for a ride to serve 2 purposes, first and foremost, aid my sanity. 2nd Proof that it is running well and get video of the motor running to help sell it easier.

The doghouse, it is needed up here even in summer. While Buzzards bay and the south side of Cape Cod water temps can be warm in the summer, going out north or east of the Cape the water temps are in the 60s. It truely is a weird experience to round Monomoy Point (strip of land sitting southeast corner of Cape Cod Arm) and go from Nantucket sound water to the water out east, It is like someone turned on the AC full blast and hits you in the face. The temps drop 20 degrees in 200 yards depending if the water is running east or west and on a day in the 90s sweating in shorts and a T-shirt, you can hit the corner and need windpants and a sweatshirt. Coming home in the afternoon, Buzzards bay and Natucket sound are wind funnels and kick up quite a bit of chop, so spray protection is definitely required.