Engine Cover Interference with tower!!!

[Ironworker]

Gents,

I have a problem. I was getting ready to add the hinges on the engine covers and apparently the engine covers hit the new tower which was built for the boat when pivoting up. See pic. Its hitting approximately where my GF's hand is on the tower leg. Its the same for both sides. We've been scratching our heads on other ways to hinge the cover (maybe off the bulkhead or on the inside). We've also though about modifying the engine covers by shortening them which is going to be a lot of work. Of course these is always the option of modifying the tower legs. Do you guys have any ideas?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7i1zaom3qe7b9 ... e.jpg?dl=0

[SteveM]

Easiest thing is to have quick release pins where the hinges are.
No modifications or fiberglass work.
Pull the pins, slide the engine box back into cockpit to work on engine.

At least, that's what I would consider doing.

[Ironworker]

Yep, that is an option and one that we considered. We have been sliding the covers while we've been working on the boat which is one of the reasons we didn't notice the interference until, I got ready to install the hinges. The other thing we've considered is some sort hinge that slides along a bolt towards the centerline of the boat. I've seen similar hinges in the past and they would only have to slide for a couple of inches to clear the tower. In all likelihood, I'd have to have some sort of sliding hinge fabricated.

I'm hoping someone on the board has some magic up their sleeve!

[Tony Meola]

What type of deck do you have in? Are you going to be making any alterations to the deck.

Crazy idea is to build a recessed slide into the deck so you can slide the box back a few inches then lift it up. Or you could slide it to center and lift it up.

[Carl]

Can you unbolt and move tower legs outboard a little to clear? You should be able to move leg an inch of two and still have flanges bolt flush to gunnel.

As you said hinges that allow boxes to slide inboard before pivoting up.

If not a lot to move can you install a spacer panel on the outside. I makes walkway a bit narrower, but if only a little. Could also do the same on front so box is a bit shorter.

Last idea is to radius the corner of box and create a mating section to close.

[SteveM]

I was going to look for hinges with quick release pins for my boat.
Running back and forth to the Bahamas I use the cockpit as a pickup truck bed for many items.
My son thought of the idea to simply pull the cotter pins out of the hinges when I don't want to move everything around on the deck in order to get to the engines.
In the long run, it would be nice to have a quality hinge with a pin that was made to do this.

With the Hurricane Dorian incident, we lost many of our fuel docks in the Bahamas. I purchased a large fuel bladder with the plan to have it centered forward in the cockpit behind the engine boxes.
Once I got to my destination I would empty the bladder into the tank and have plenty of fuel for my return trip without relying on foreign fuel. However, if there was a need to get to the engines on my route over, that bladder would be too heavy to move.

The only other ways I think you could solve the problem is a long piano hinge on the inside edge. I doubt the walkway has enough width, but even if it did, it's not easy to work on the engines without access from the side.
Or you cut and fabricate the engine box area to accommodate the tower legs. Or you have the tower welder re-design the legs for clearance.

My vote is for the pin hinges.

[Yannis]

I don't have a 31 and I fail to understand in which direction these boxes open.
Could someone please indicate? Thanks.

[Ironworker]

What type of deck do you have in? Are you going to be making any alterations to the deck.

Crazy idea is to build a recessed slide into the deck so you can slide the box back a few inches then lift it up. Or you could slide it to center and lift it up.

If its crazy then I must be crazy as well because I had the same idea. I figured it would become a dirt, slime and blood trap though and wouldn't work in the long run.

[Ironworker]

Can you unbolt and move tower legs outboard a little to clear? You should be able to move leg an inch of two and still have flanges bolt flush to gunnel.

As you said hinges that allow boxes to slide inboard before pivoting up.

If not a lot to move can you install a spacer panel on the outside. I makes walkway a bit narrower, but if only a little. Could also do the same on front so box is a bit shorter.

Last idea is to radius the corner of box and create a mating section to close.

Carl,

Moving the tower is not an option as it was designed to sit on the flybridge

https://www.dropbox.com/s/19epxgrageofu ... M.jpg?dl=0

The other ideas are good options. I appreciate everyone's ideas. I just want to think this through before I start cutting and hacking.

[Ironworker]

I don't have a 31 and I fail to understand in which direction these boxes open.
Could someone please indicate? Thanks.

Yannis,

The pivot from the stern side of the box and when open rest on the deck.

[Yannis]

I didn't see any hinge at the foot of the rear surface that would give it away.
So, when open they rest standing tall on the rear surface?

[Ironworker]

I didn't see any hinge at the foot of the rear surface that would give it away.
So, when open they rest standing tall on the rear surface?

Correct. This boat has been under a 12 year restoration and I'm just now in the process of putting it back together and unfortunately seeing what doesn't and does fit. Mostly doesn't!

[John F.]

I'd want to be able to open my boxes quickly if need be, and easily all the other times. I check oil and coolant and give the motors a good look over after each use, and sliding boxes would make this more difficult. I'd consider cutting the boxes to clear, and fiberglass what you cut to the wing panel. Or narrow the boxes and widen the wing panels

[Carl]

When I had to pull my fuel tank out, I had no place to put the motor boxs. It was the winter storage season with boats right up to mine all around. I needed cockpit area clear to work around the tank...so

So I ran a line around the box, attached another line to my tower which was right over the top of motors (I have an Express) and pulled. Up the motor box went. I then tied it off, so up and out of the way it stayed.

A bit outside the box, but do you have room for an extendable rod with a pulley that can be used to hoist the motor box. Once up a clip or legs to secure.


The next one is overly complicated for my taste, but if you've seen a scissor door, like on a Lamborgini...that kind of lift, extend and swing up is doable. Stupidly complex for whats needed, but doable. The hinge mechanism becomes the easy part and mounting supports become the task.



Or hinge the outboard side of the box. A couple gas pistons to ease the lift with a leg to support when open...not great access on outboard side, but quick and easy like opening your cars hood.

Can't be any worse then those stupid decks that lift up on some Expresses. You know the ones the rams to open fail and you cant gain access. Then when your in you can't get to helm to start, check gauges, shift etc.

[Ironworker]

Carl,

Good ideas. I especially like the hoisting one.

I though about splitting the engine boxes with a hinge, or maybe cutting out a section and hinging that piece. I've got cushions for the boxes so it wouldn't be an aesthetic issue.

John also has a good idea of narrowing the boxes and widening the wing panels which seems like a good long term solution but is a lot of short term work.

[Reelcrazy]

i had the same problem with my bahia mar. got slide apart hinges. Open box part way slide inboard half an inch out of the hinges.
i also had straps made up to clip off to hand rail under hard top

[Snipe]

When my boat had the tower the corner of the hatches were cut off and permanently mounted to the l pieces on the boat.

[Tony Meola]

Ironworker

If Greg Thunnel (Thumbs Up) was still on the board he might be able to explain how he built a slide out deck area on his 30 ft. Chris Craft Sportfishing build. I have not seen it in a while but when he showed it to me a few years ago I thought it was pretty slick. I believe he made it out of starboard, and has it pinned so it can not slide on him when running.

He pulls the pins and it slides right back. Takes him all of about 5 minutes.

Shame I was on the boat on Sunday giving him a quick hand. I bet you could groove the deck, and insert a piece of starboard slightly recessed. Then have a piece that attaches to the bottom of the engine hatch and fits into the recessed area. I bet you could make it work.

The question is can you seal the starboard into the recess to make the whole thing water tight.

[Ironworker]

i had the same problem with my bahia mar. got slide apart hinges. Open box part way slide inboard half an inch out of the hinges.
i also had straps made up to clip off to hand rail under hard top

Reelcrazy,

Do you have a photo or even better a link to the hinges that you used? We don't have a praying emoji but I'm hoping that you have both for me.

[Ironworker]

When my boat had the tower the corner of the hatches were cut off and permanently mounted to the l pieces on the boat.

Pictures would be great!

[Ironworker]

Ironworker

If Greg Thunnel (Thumbs Up) was still on the board he might be able to explain how he built a slide out deck area on his 30 ft. Chris Craft Sportfishing build. I have not seen it in a while but when he showed it to me a few years ago I thought it was pretty slick. I believe he made it out of starboard, and has it pinned so it can not slide on him when running.

He pulls the pins and it slides right back. Takes him all of about 5 minutes.

Shame I was on the boat on Sunday giving him a quick hand. I bet you could groove the deck, and insert a piece of starboard slightly recessed. Then have a piece that attaches to the bottom of the engine hatch and fits into the recessed area. I bet you could make it work.

The question is can you seal the starboard into the recess to make the whole thing water tight.

Tony,

I will try to reach out to Greg. If you are in contact with him please ask him to send me an email to rwott@outlook.com

I'd really like to see some photos of his rig.

[DanielM]

Rick,

I think someone has mentioned it above, but could you hinge them with on the outboard side with the quick release pinned hinges?

I have a a CC30 like Greg’s and mine pivots on the outboard edge. The couple Blackfin boats I’ve been on do as well. I don’t know if that would work on a B31. You have to have something to hold them up as they don’t pivot back far enough to stand up on their own. I just use a pole sized for it, (like under a car hood) but the Blackfin had straps and SS eye plates on the bulk head to hold them up. With the pinned hinges you can pull the pins and lift the box into the cockpit if you need full access.

BTW, the boat looks great. Nice looking rig.

[Rocky]

Rick,
I know it sounds painful, but you said it yourself- back to the fabricator shop and modify those inner legs of tower is the direction I’d suggest. Then it would be a non invasive add on like you intended it to be from the get go.

[Reelcrazy]

I''ve had mine for twenty years look on defender marine sea dog part# 205275-1

[ktm_2000]

How about cutting and hinging a portion of the top of the motor box in the area which would hit the tower leg? You could start to raise the engine cover, once you are going to hit the tower leg, fold the obstruction portion away and continue opening the cover

Could you take a pic of the engine cover when it is just about to hit the tower leg?

[ktm_2000]

another idea similar to mine and what was referenced by snipe, cut the engine cover where it would interfere, add the cut out section of glass back to the outboard wing section.

quick drawing - - I am assuming that only a portion needs to be cut out to get past the tower leg, showing ideas #1 and #2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rwb9EiPVNwajxfKMA

[Ironworker]

That's a good idea. The only issue is accession the filters on the starboard side. Of course to get into the area the side panel pretty much has to be removed anyway.

I've got some photos of the hinges that came with the boat. I'm going to post them and hopefully someone has seen them before and the rod or hinge pin that was designed with the hinges. I need to take some more photos before I post.

[Tony Meola]

You can relocate the filters. If I see Greg I will see if he can jump on.

[Ironworker]

You can relocate the filters. If I see Greg I will see if he can jump on.

Whoa, I hadn't though about that.

[PeterPalmieri]

I’d modify the edge of the engine box

[saburke17]

IronWorker, my tower is set the exact same way. my hatches are cut at an angle and have a hinge on them. they flip up to open all the way the way and they pop back down when you get past the leg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1laf7g0e4m6o ... 1.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/82mu89xqvdbdr ... 7.JPG?dl=0

[Ironworker]

That's a pretty good solution. I'm getting ready to install the Sound Down so I've got to make a decision soon. Very likely going with modifying the engine covers at this point.

The one thing I've learned about B 31's is that they are all different. I've learned a lot from seeing photos of your boats and its been extremely helpful.

I'll post some of the flybridge in progress as soon as I can get back to the Boat.