reinforcing an area for swivel rod holders

[ktm_2000]

Hi All,

I did a fair amount of giant fishing in high school and college crewing for a captain so I get the game, it has just been quite a few years since I've done it. I don't have the gear myself but a buddy has a few bent butt 80s and someday plan on drowning some baits.

This is all wishful thinking but I know the forces involved and am planning on putting some swivel rod holders 2 where I shortened down the cabin and 2 in the transom. I'm not worried about the cabin area, I'll have to figure out the position where the radius of the rod tip and line could cross the bow without getting hung up, the area has 3/8" glass with 3/4" marine ply under, with a backing plate on the rod holder it is not going anywhere.

The transom area has got me thinking. I would like the rod holders in the area that is between the motor well proper and where I've enclosed inside the boat. I would do it outboard of the storage area I've created but would like my fuel filter outside the storage area but somewhat hidden under the gunnel.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SC8vzqcS2ErPZuSJ8

My issue lies in the hacking I've done to notch the transom, the area is somewhat weak right at the moment and will be fairly hard to get to glass more stuff in after I put the sides of the splashwell in. Is this a candidate for a chunk of marine ply glued underneath then tabbed in with a few layers of 1708 or do I need to go heavier?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/myCCCy5RSh1Has7p7

[CamB25]

I made and glued in a set of gussets to tie the entire "cap" to the hull sides, but my performance criteria was near zero deflection when standing on the cap, not hauling in a 600 lb tuna. I also flipped the cap upside down and reinforced the entire underside with 17 oz biax. It "strong like bull". My rod holders are secured with fiberglass backing plates to distribute the load.

If you can tie the cap to the deck (or at least close along the transom) with knees or gussets you should be OK?

Also - avoid using Sharpies to mark fiberglass. Sharpie can print through your primers and top coats.

Cam

[ktm_2000]

Cam,

I ran out and tried to take a better pic of the area
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MS9UdfMHSeGMNf1c6

The storage module is glassed front side and back with 2 layers of 1708, I also have 2 layers of glass on the top cap, so one side is covered with your gusset, in the foreground there are 2 lines, the back line will be the 2nd gusset the sidewall of the splashwell, the inside line will be the radius piece which will land, the space between the 2 will be hidden. I state that it is weak because I left the front face, tall and will need to match that top together.

I think I am more concerned with the top cap 1/4" thickness may not be enough as well as an order of operations problem of how to get it all together.

[CamB25]

I think I get it now. You're making a closed box and want the rod holder in the box. The key to strength is to distribute the load. Surface area is your friend. Can you make a box in a box? Make an inner box to fit that cavity that has as much surface contact as possible with all the surrounding surfaces, including the cap. Bond it with epoxy everywhere you can. Sort of a puzzle to make.

[ktm_2000]

I got 2 pieces of 3/4" marine ply cut out for the backer boards and made them so they fit right up to the front of the transom storage panel. I am not quite sure what to do where the top cap changes height and the gap. I'm thinking about finding some scrap pieces of material which match the right height and profile. The whole thing doesn't have to be perfect, it just has to take up space and act as a leave in place form for the skin of fiberglass I will put on top. It will have to wait for tomorrow...

[ktm_2000]

I worked on filling in the area and making a backer board last night and got it all bonded in. I used some scrap pieces of the boat which I cut out and cut them to size, I mixed up some goop and installed by screwing through the top cap to make sure everything is tight.

raw parts fitted
https://photos.app.goo.gl/diNZWy1FGo5W3sSr8
from the top
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fZ8ZqxpfhCN8FUmz7

after bonding in from below
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jSVS1foSh9rRqcDr8
on top
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1ZMBsrSBiPGv6cXd8

It was dark out when I got to bonding it in and didn't want to do a poor job glassing the underside so I will sand and glass in the bottom tonight. On the top, I intentionally left the top of the transom storage piece long so I could trim to exact size later. I will sand to match the top cap and then put a couple of layers of glass to make it all look seamless.

[Tony Meola]

That looks good. That should give you the load spread you need.

I guess another option, if you needed to match a curve, would be to use individual pieces of 1/4 inch ply, and attach 4 individual pieces so you could force it to match any curvatures.