Hi,
I'm purchasing a project 31 next week with intention of a total restore over the course of years...so step one, properly block boat for such an endeavor. Have seen diagram, but am curious what height/angle stands I would need. I'll have it on a trailer and ideally remove it from trailer onto stands in such a way that I can reverse the process in a few years for launch without major issue.
Appreciate any help and look forward to posting questions/progress as I get into this.
Ryan
Buying project 31. Many questions, but 1st stands/blocking
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sep 17th, '20, 14:50
-
- Posts: 747
- Joined: Jul 22nd, '17, 13:59
Re: Buying project 31. Many questions, but 1st stands/blocki
Ryan,
I just had my boat on stands for several years. First, I'd recommend 6 stands. The heads articulate so they will find the proper angle. Once you get the boat off the trailer (I'd highly recommend you hire someone with hydraulic jacks especially made for boats to lift and put on the stands.
Once the boat is on the stands tie the opposing stands together with a good rope or some sort of jack straps. They need to be tight to combat wind loads if you're in a location where you're subject to periodic strong winds.
Lastly put some carpet on the pad of the jack stands. Keep in mind you're likely going to be bottom painting within a week before you're going to launch the boat. You'll appreciate the six stands at that time.
I also placed wood blocking under the keel at the stern and bow. Also if you're going to be doing the work yourself, invest in a set of mobile stairs with a handrail. I suspect I've made approximately 103,821 trips up and down my stairs into the boat by now!
I just had my boat on stands for several years. First, I'd recommend 6 stands. The heads articulate so they will find the proper angle. Once you get the boat off the trailer (I'd highly recommend you hire someone with hydraulic jacks especially made for boats to lift and put on the stands.
Once the boat is on the stands tie the opposing stands together with a good rope or some sort of jack straps. They need to be tight to combat wind loads if you're in a location where you're subject to periodic strong winds.
Lastly put some carpet on the pad of the jack stands. Keep in mind you're likely going to be bottom painting within a week before you're going to launch the boat. You'll appreciate the six stands at that time.
I also placed wood blocking under the keel at the stern and bow. Also if you're going to be doing the work yourself, invest in a set of mobile stairs with a handrail. I suspect I've made approximately 103,821 trips up and down my stairs into the boat by now!
Rick Ott
Carolina Reaper
Hull # Don't have a clue
Carolina Reaper
Hull # Don't have a clue
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 7036
- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 21:24
- Location: Hillsdale, New Jersey
- Contact:
Re: Buying project 31. Many questions, but 1st stands/blocki
The important part is to make sure it is level so any twisting is reduced.
When we repowered, the boat sat on a cement slab. It was blocked at 3 places along the keep. Jack stands now and mid ships, and at the stern, there were cynderblock supports that had a Elwood block on top that caught the hull under the Chine so she could not rock.
The important part is to get her as level and stable as possible.
When we repowered, the boat sat on a cement slab. It was blocked at 3 places along the keep. Jack stands now and mid ships, and at the stern, there were cynderblock supports that had a Elwood block on top that caught the hull under the Chine so she could not rock.
The important part is to get her as level and stable as possible.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
Re: Buying project 31. Many questions, but 1st stands/blocki
Ironworker wrote:Ryan,
I suspect I've made approximately 103,821 trips up and down my stairs into the boat by now!
LOL!
1963 Bertram 25
1973 Boston Whaler 13 - sold!
1998 Scout 172 SF - beach taxi
1973 Boston Whaler 13 - sold!
1998 Scout 172 SF - beach taxi
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sep 17th, '20, 14:50
Re: Buying project 31. Many questions, but 1st stands/blocki
My plan is keel blocks in a few places and three stands per side. If all goes to plan it will be under roof and relatively blocked from major wind, but not fully "inside". Any thoughts on height of boat stands? I'd like it as low as possible without precluding the ability to work underneath. Stairs are going to be part of the plan. We spent last winter working on a 31 Mako on a trailer and accessing via a step ladder with stuff in your hands got old quick. Thanks for replies.
Re: Buying project 31. Many questions, but 1st stands/blocki
I started my project stubbornly by stepping on rudder with hand in hawsehole then heave and pull onto the transom step followed by leg swung over and in.
A friend said I needed a ladder, but I dug in firmly with an I'm fine...next day his ladder there for me. I may have gone up the first time climbing as usual...but soon it was the ladder each and every time...except when I had my inspections by other friends.
Alot easier with a ladder...steps whoa, that would have been great especially on those days your real tied and forget what you need to bring up from the truck...get down by truck and forget what you needed. Go back up and remember, so back down you go. Grab the tool and get back up only to find out its the wrong size.
Block it good, but expect it will still move and you remove and add weight back. I had my two shafts aligned perfectly, spin them easily by hand. After I added a half tank of fuel it was a job to get the port starboard shaft to turn. In the water it was better but still tight. A little alignment and it was moving free again. I guess its to be expected when you pull motors and remove all the fuel out...then add heavier motors, chop up the hull, glass and add more fuel. I know in the process the stands had to be readjusted as some had no load. Scary to walk around checking and top moves freely.
Sorry, I'm not much help, but a keel stand under the keep at the transom, one midway around motors and I added one for the bow. Then four boat stands, two at the transome and two around the motors.
Height...follow the shaft angle figuring you'll need about 90" from the end of the strut to pull shafts. If rudders are coming down, measure for those as well. If your on the ground and can dig...you can go lower with the boat.
A friend said I needed a ladder, but I dug in firmly with an I'm fine...next day his ladder there for me. I may have gone up the first time climbing as usual...but soon it was the ladder each and every time...except when I had my inspections by other friends.
Alot easier with a ladder...steps whoa, that would have been great especially on those days your real tied and forget what you need to bring up from the truck...get down by truck and forget what you needed. Go back up and remember, so back down you go. Grab the tool and get back up only to find out its the wrong size.
Block it good, but expect it will still move and you remove and add weight back. I had my two shafts aligned perfectly, spin them easily by hand. After I added a half tank of fuel it was a job to get the port starboard shaft to turn. In the water it was better but still tight. A little alignment and it was moving free again. I guess its to be expected when you pull motors and remove all the fuel out...then add heavier motors, chop up the hull, glass and add more fuel. I know in the process the stands had to be readjusted as some had no load. Scary to walk around checking and top moves freely.
Sorry, I'm not much help, but a keel stand under the keep at the transom, one midway around motors and I added one for the bow. Then four boat stands, two at the transome and two around the motors.
Height...follow the shaft angle figuring you'll need about 90" from the end of the strut to pull shafts. If rudders are coming down, measure for those as well. If your on the ground and can dig...you can go lower with the boat.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 160 guests