Bonding system question

[WAC]

I just spent my first weekend going through every aspect of the new boat. Replacing all the broken bonding wires was first on my list. I bought a spool of #8 all the crimps, heat shrink, etc and with good intentions set out to get all completed. Well I fell terribly short as just getting everything clean in the bilges prior to starting took hours. When I finally stated to get into it I found the bolts that connected the wires to the copper strap were so bad I had to break them rather than take them apart. I then found that the old copper strap was so thin and cracked that it just wanted to break. So after 2 new wires I stopped and decided to just do a complete redo. I plan on fishing a new wire through the entire boat to replace the existing copper strap. My questions are the following.
If I loop a new wire through the boat what gauge should it be?
Can I run everything in #8 or should the main loop wire be a larger gauge?
Should I keep the loop wire solid or break it to solid buss bar style terminal blocks where I need connection points?
My gut says to keep the loop wire solid without breaks and clamp to it where I need connections, but the OCD side says to install heavy bar type terminal blocks at all critical points and land the loop wire on each end to make it continuous. This would make it easy to land and replace bonding wires when needed. This is my first time with one in the water all the time and I want to make sure the bonding system is as perfect as it can be. Any insight or opinions are appreciated.

[Bruce]

On a 31, a #8 wire run front to back will more than carry the bonding load.

You can use a buss bar to tie wires together. Try not to clamp wires to objects while it's better than nothing you can lose connection easily.

You can clean a spot and solder a tab onto fitting to connect a lug to. Soldering is better than crimping a lug but if you crimp, use a closed end lug with heat shrink with glue.

Wire and lugs should be marine tinned, not copper.

You can link objects together such as struts to rudder port to transom zinc but any bad connections in between can break the bond. A wire brush on a drill makes short work of corrosion.

[WAC]

Thanks bruce, everything is #8 tinned crimped and heat shrinked. I thought about soldering more tabs onto the existing bonding strap and repairing the torn spots but thought running a new wire throughout would shorten the task and ensure a good solid system.
Still thinking on it.

[Tony Meola]

Thanks bruce, everything is #8 tinned crimped and heat shrinked. I thought about soldering more tabs onto the existing bonding strap and repairing the torn spots but thought running a new wire throughout would shorten the task and ensure a good solid system.
Still thinking on it.

When I repowered I put in new copper strip but to tell you the truth if I did it over I would go with #8 wire. Much easier just use heavy posts/ bus bar where you make the connections.

[WAC]

Thanks Tony, I now have all the #8 wire and the large buss bars. It should make for a real clean install up and away from all the water. Just need to get the bilges clean enough so I can get to work. She is a dirty girl as the PO did not believe in cleaning anything.

[Tony Meola]

To clean the bilge use either PS21 or Castrol Super Clean. Power washer and if you are brave you could rent a steam cleaner.

[WAC]

Tony, thanks. I cleaned the bilges with good old fashioned elbow grease putty knife and a wire brush. Literally pounds of sludge and oily crap. This is the second go around and I will probably need two more as crap keeps coming out of areas I cannot reach. The best part is when you pull a hatch it is shiny green.
New bonding loop was installed over the weekend and it worked out great. 5 blocks down each side with a complete loop. All testing out perfectly. Just have to land a couple more items and it should be complete. The worse part is pulling the old and cleaning the connection and hardware to accept the new. Lots of shiny bronze with new connections now.

[Tony Meola]

Tony, thanks. I cleaned the bilges with good old fashioned elbow grease putty knife and a wire brush. Literally pounds of sludge and oily crap. This is the second go around and I will probably need two more as crap keeps coming out of areas I cannot reach. The best part is when you pull a hatch it is shiny green.
New bonding loop was installed over the weekend and it worked out great. 5 blocks down each side with a complete loop. All testing out perfectly. Just have to land a couple more items and it should be complete. The worse part is pulling the old and cleaning the connection and hardware to accept the new. Lots of shiny bronze with new connections now.

I was lucky, since we have owned our boat since it was new, the bilge was clean when I repowered. just sand and some other gunk but no oil or grease. However since Sandy when the dam bay water came into the bilge while she was on the hard, I gut this grey muck that I keep on cleaning up but it keeps on coming back.

[WAC]

Ya, I thought I was pretty good then wham more grey gunk. My wife tells me I'm not working hard enough. I tell her she should get in and give it a try...
Back at it this weekend. I am the type that likes the bilge spotless, so I figure we will be well acquainted with each other on a weekly basis. Clean boat, happy boat.

[WAC]

On a 31, a #8 wire run front to back will more than carry the bonding load.

You can use a buss bar to tie wires together. Try not to clamp wires to objects while it's better than nothing you can lose connection easily.

You can clean a spot and solder a tab onto fitting to connect a lug to. Soldering is better than crimping a lug but if you crimp, use a closed end lug with heat shrink with glue.

Wire and lugs should be marine tinned, not copper.

You can link objects together such as struts to rudder port to transom zinc but any bad connections in between can break the bond. A wire brush on a drill makes short work of corrosion.

Bruce, thanks for the wire brush on the drill suggestion. The bonding is in and complete. All tested good. All #8 tinned marine wire, Blue Seas tinned buss bars, closed end tinned connectors with heat shrink with sealer in it. The hardest part of the job was breaking the old connections and cleaning them to accept the new. The wire brush on the drill motor saved the day. Each and every mounting point is shiny bronze now. After seating each got a spray of Boeshield. Should keep things looking good for quite a while.