What do I need to do to take out the front and curved corners windows
Bill P
Windows
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Harry Babb
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2354
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:45
- Location: Fairhope Al
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Well Bill I removed and rebuilt my windows about a year and half ago. I will try to remember just what all is involved here.
Take down the headliner in the vee berth area..........You will see 3 threaded rods, one in the center and one on each side.
Next, take down the headliner in the main cabin area and you will see 3 access holes that will allow you to remove the nuts from the top of the threaded rods that you located from within the Vee Berth area.
After removing the nuts from the top of the threaded rods pull out the threaded rods.
Next, from within the Vee Berth area look at the bottom of windshield area.....you should see several screws that goes thru the fiberglass and
thread into the bottom of the windshield frame...........remove those screws. Don't be surprised if most of them break off. You can deal with the broken screws later.
Now I believe that the side windows are fastened to the aft edge of the curved windows with several screws.........remove those screws.
At this point I put 2 hydraulic jacks on the flat "Dash Board" area and using wide planks of wood to spread the load I started jacking up the roof to seperate it from the window. You will need to use a utility knife to cut the sealing compound loose that seals and adheres the window to the fiberglass top and deck.
This is not the easiest job to do. The threaded rod on the Starboard side of my windshield was seriously corroded and I had to cut, drill, hammer and cuss before that rod finally gave up and came out.
The window frame is seated in a gummy butyl rubber compound therefore you need to be prepared to pry and drive wedges between the window frames and the fiberglass.
I think that you will need to remove screws that fasten the side windows to the top so that the top can be raised enough to remove the front windshield.
I may have left out a few details but this will more than get you started
Get a good nights sleep before you get started..........you'll need it.
Keep us posted..........let us know how the job progresses.
Harry Babb
Take down the headliner in the vee berth area..........You will see 3 threaded rods, one in the center and one on each side.
Next, take down the headliner in the main cabin area and you will see 3 access holes that will allow you to remove the nuts from the top of the threaded rods that you located from within the Vee Berth area.
After removing the nuts from the top of the threaded rods pull out the threaded rods.
Next, from within the Vee Berth area look at the bottom of windshield area.....you should see several screws that goes thru the fiberglass and
thread into the bottom of the windshield frame...........remove those screws. Don't be surprised if most of them break off. You can deal with the broken screws later.
Now I believe that the side windows are fastened to the aft edge of the curved windows with several screws.........remove those screws.
At this point I put 2 hydraulic jacks on the flat "Dash Board" area and using wide planks of wood to spread the load I started jacking up the roof to seperate it from the window. You will need to use a utility knife to cut the sealing compound loose that seals and adheres the window to the fiberglass top and deck.
This is not the easiest job to do. The threaded rod on the Starboard side of my windshield was seriously corroded and I had to cut, drill, hammer and cuss before that rod finally gave up and came out.
The window frame is seated in a gummy butyl rubber compound therefore you need to be prepared to pry and drive wedges between the window frames and the fiberglass.
I think that you will need to remove screws that fasten the side windows to the top so that the top can be raised enough to remove the front windshield.
I may have left out a few details but this will more than get you started
Get a good nights sleep before you get started..........you'll need it.
Keep us posted..........let us know how the job progresses.
Harry Babb
hb
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John Jackson
- Senior Member
- Posts: 161
- Joined: Jul 19th, '06, 22:39
- Location: Point Pleasant Beach, NJ
Harry,
How did the "rebuilt" windows come out? Any problems reinstalling them? Who did the work? What exactly did they do? Any leaks?
I want to redo my windows. I replaced my curved windows and had the outside rims fixed up by a welder. It improved the situation a little, but I would love to have the whole thing look like new if I can. Thanks, JJJ
How did the "rebuilt" windows come out? Any problems reinstalling them? Who did the work? What exactly did they do? Any leaks?
I want to redo my windows. I replaced my curved windows and had the outside rims fixed up by a welder. It improved the situation a little, but I would love to have the whole thing look like new if I can. Thanks, JJJ
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Harry Babb
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2354
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:45
- Location: Fairhope Al
- Contact:
John
I am pretty much a do it myself guy and for the most part I really enjoy "Projects" and I did all of the windshield work myself.
Capt Mike Holmes pretty much says it all
Here is where it gets interesting..........I built an oven using heat lamps for heat source then built a mold off of the old curved glass using formica and bondo. I cut Plexi and laid it on the formica mold and heated it in the oven until it formed the shape of the mold.
Next I reassembled everything and put them back in the boat.
As far as the finished job.........the curved windows are not exactly uniform in the curve. The heat lamps concentrate to much heat in spots and not as uniform as heat strips. If you are not looking really close most people do not even notice.
I have noticed a couple of leaks lately. I used SikaFlex to seal the Plexi to the frames and for some reason this seal has developed a couple of leaks. I will reseal them this winter.
All in all I am pleased with DeNadas windows.........I spent about $700 in materials and a lot of time.
Harry Babb
I am pretty much a do it myself guy and for the most part I really enjoy "Projects" and I did all of the windshield work myself.
Capt Mike Holmes pretty much says it all
After removing the window frames I disassembled them and then weld repaired the corroded areas and welded up all of the drilled holes in the frames. I then sandblasted them and painted them flat black."There is nothing quite so satisfying, as simply messing around in boats
Here is where it gets interesting..........I built an oven using heat lamps for heat source then built a mold off of the old curved glass using formica and bondo. I cut Plexi and laid it on the formica mold and heated it in the oven until it formed the shape of the mold.
Next I reassembled everything and put them back in the boat.
As far as the finished job.........the curved windows are not exactly uniform in the curve. The heat lamps concentrate to much heat in spots and not as uniform as heat strips. If you are not looking really close most people do not even notice.
I have noticed a couple of leaks lately. I used SikaFlex to seal the Plexi to the frames and for some reason this seal has developed a couple of leaks. I will reseal them this winter.
All in all I am pleased with DeNadas windows.........I spent about $700 in materials and a lot of time.
Harry Babb
hb
Bill,
Harry hit it right on the head. It's an ugly job but if it needs to be done there is no substitute. First question I ask is why are you removing all of that stuff? If its shot and needs replacement be sure you get windows from the same era boat as the frames changed and the size changed and if they are not the same; if you think taking them out is a pain, wait until you replace them with windows of another era. Whew! If the frames are good and the glass and plexi needs replacement, do it with the frames in place. Much easier. Front windows - lift them stright up to horizontal and pull forward; out they come for work at the shop. Side windows - remove the nuts and bolts and work them out (same butyl rubber as frames to fibreglass) and send them to American Marine for new ones bent properly (sorry Harry). While they are out clean up the frames and anything else around the area that needs work. Follow this work with a dozen clears. It would change anything, but you won't give a s#*t.
Your humble servant
Harry hit it right on the head. It's an ugly job but if it needs to be done there is no substitute. First question I ask is why are you removing all of that stuff? If its shot and needs replacement be sure you get windows from the same era boat as the frames changed and the size changed and if they are not the same; if you think taking them out is a pain, wait until you replace them with windows of another era. Whew! If the frames are good and the glass and plexi needs replacement, do it with the frames in place. Much easier. Front windows - lift them stright up to horizontal and pull forward; out they come for work at the shop. Side windows - remove the nuts and bolts and work them out (same butyl rubber as frames to fibreglass) and send them to American Marine for new ones bent properly (sorry Harry). While they are out clean up the frames and anything else around the area that needs work. Follow this work with a dozen clears. It would change anything, but you won't give a s#*t.
Your humble servant
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
Mikey
The reason I'm removing windows is that two of the slider are cracked. All the windows have the original clear glass. The front and carved frames are not that bad. I'm thinking about having the front and curved frame reanodized. I did get a quote from Amerian Marine a coupe of days for new side frames with sliding glass, curved acyrilic corners and glass for the windows. As for the work involved, when you stand back and look at the end result it's worth it! There again I my do as you suggested and leave the front frames in.
thank you
bill
The reason I'm removing windows is that two of the slider are cracked. All the windows have the original clear glass. The front and carved frames are not that bad. I'm thinking about having the front and curved frame reanodized. I did get a quote from Amerian Marine a coupe of days for new side frames with sliding glass, curved acyrilic corners and glass for the windows. As for the work involved, when you stand back and look at the end result it's worth it! There again I my do as you suggested and leave the front frames in.
thank you
bill
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Harry Babb
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2354
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:45
- Location: Fairhope Al
- Contact:
Rebuilding the windows was quite an undertaking for me.
Generally speaking DeNada's exterior is in pretty good shape. She was repainted about 6 years ago. No one had ever touched the windows or the interior in 40 years. The windows at the time I purchased her were corroded and in simply awful shape. It was like having a newly painted car with rusty dirty wheels and broken glass.
The job turned into quite a gruleing task and now I am wondering If I really made it harder than it really is.
Harry Babb
Captian Pat.........what are your tips on window rebuilding????We redid our windows this winter. My advice to you is to ask Capt. Patrick. He made several great suggestions and we avoided taking the cabin apart.
Generally speaking DeNada's exterior is in pretty good shape. She was repainted about 6 years ago. No one had ever touched the windows or the interior in 40 years. The windows at the time I purchased her were corroded and in simply awful shape. It was like having a newly painted car with rusty dirty wheels and broken glass.
The job turned into quite a gruleing task and now I am wondering If I really made it harder than it really is.
Harry Babb
hb
Bill,
As bad as it was I would do it again, but I had little choice. My windows were badly corroded. The finished product is spectacular. I powder coated the frames (including new side frames from American Marine) in black, added Solex (medium green tint which has a match in glass and plexi)windows and with the exterior colors it is a head turner.
WARNING! The original windows were bonded with wire too small and the wire broke and the windows were vulnerable. Make certain that reguardless of you attack that you bond the windows to the system.
As bad as it was I would do it again, but I had little choice. My windows were badly corroded. The finished product is spectacular. I powder coated the frames (including new side frames from American Marine) in black, added Solex (medium green tint which has a match in glass and plexi)windows and with the exterior colors it is a head turner.
WARNING! The original windows were bonded with wire too small and the wire broke and the windows were vulnerable. Make certain that reguardless of you attack that you bond the windows to the system.
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
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