B28 side window removal

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 4th, '16, 01:04

Human stupidity led to this smashed rear stb window of mine.
The guy wanted to enter in my cabin with his anchor, which was accidentally attached to his sailboat's bow...
How do you take it out? How do you take measurements for a new one? All those window paraphernalia( this wooly insulator where the window slides on...etc.) need to be changed too.
Any ideas will be considered seriously !

Navatech · Post by **Navatech** » Oct 4th, '16, 05:09

Sorry to hear about your misfortune... Could have been worse though... For example:

http://www.local10.com/news/yacht-crash ... ach-marina

I don't know whether that's a boat theft gone bad or a repo gone bad...

Does the other guy have insurance or $$$?!... If so, let HIM handle it via a pro!...

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 4th, '16, 06:07

The other guy has insurance, only he is Italian and his insurance is italian which complicate the issue...
Anyway, the money side will be fixed one way or another, what seems like a puzzle is how to remove the glass and still be able to take measurements of it. Had it not been for the double ( inside and outside) sun filter films which somehow held it into position, I would not have been able to continue my vacations - it happened right in the middle of them.
One idea is to measure the same window on the other side, but still, I have to take that one out too since one cannot reach to its extremities when in place.
As if we didnt have enough to do in our boats already .....

Navatech · Post by **Navatech** » Oct 4th, '16, 07:21

Yannis wrote:The other guy has insurance, only he is Italian and his insurance is italian which complicate the issue...
Anyway, the money side will be fixed one way or another, what seems like a puzzle is how to remove the glass and still be able to take measurements of it. Had it not been for the double ( inside and outside) sun filter films which somehow held it into position, I would not have been able to continue my vacations - it happened right in the middle of them.
One idea is to measure the same window on the other side, but still, I have to take that one out too since one cannot reach to its extremities when in place.
As if we didnt have enough to do in our boats already .....

Good to hear that your vacation wasn't trashed...

I still say let the pro handle it... Hopefully you'll be able to get your money back...

If I were you I would get the insurance adjuster to come by... Then I'd get a quote from the pro... Then I'd go and try to get the money from the Spaghetti Eater... Let HIM sort it out with his insurance!...

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Oct 4th, '16, 09:44

Yannis: Hang in there. Someone will be on soon who can answer your question.

Whaler1777 · Post by **Whaler1777** » Oct 4th, '16, 10:32

You will need to remove the entire window frame, there should be a bunch of seized screws holding it all together, you may need to get a blade between the window frames and the hull... remove and separate the frames..

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 4th, '16, 10:58

Thanks Rawleigh !

John,

As a matter of fact those inside screws are IMPOSSIBLE to unscrew. If you put more pressure that what they can take, they will simply break. Perhaps if you heat them, but the grp is really close...

Now the good thing is that they do not need to be unscrewed, because what they're holding is only the mosquito mesh !
What seems to have to get dismantled is the vertical pillar outside. If you take this off, then you can somehow slide the mother out of there...and then of course make a new vertical thing, SS this time - not alu- as its screws are f@@@ed up too.

Nav,

all the above I know because the "pro" came and gave me some advise. Tomorrow morning comes the insurance guy. The problem is we're looking for the Mussolini but he doesnt answer his phone... have you ever seen me become angry?....

PS: this contraption called i-pad, consistently cuts off the rhs of every pic I upload. Nav, c'mon, this should be easy for you!!!

Whaler1777 · Post by **Whaler1777** » Oct 4th, '16, 12:09

Nope... those aren't the screws I'm talking about.... the only way to get the glass back in is to remove the entire window from the boat... the screws holding it in are in the frame channels... and by seized I mean totally frozen...

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 4th, '16, 14:17

I hear you John...
Do you know where to find the various liners?
Thanks.

Mack · Post by **Mack** » Oct 4th, '16, 18:32

Just replaced the side window glass on my 31 for the second time last week. Bottom line is that it is major surgery to take apart the window frames. The forward sliders on my boat came out by lifting them up in the track and pulling from the bottom. Not enough clearance for the aft sliders so I had to carefully break them out. I took everything to a glass shop and had them cut the new pieces about 1/8" shorter on the bottom (aft pieces only). There is plenty of track to hold the glass securely in the frame. Total cost was about $600 for tinted safety glass.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 4th, '16, 20:15

Mack thank you.
Do I understand correctly that to avoid the microsurgery of having to remove the frame, you slid the rear window back in by just making it 3mm shorter?
Is the 31 overall side window construction similar to the 28, in that there is a fixed rear piece and a sliding forward one - that latter with an internal bugs mesh?

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 4th, '16, 20:43

Yannis

What Mack is saying is that the side window slide forward and back in their tracks. One or both of the windows should be removable by sliding them open and then lifting it upwards in the track. If they were cut correctly, you should be able to clear the bottom track with the bottom window and it should come out.

If it does not then you may need to resort to putting a cut in the lower corner of the frame and slightly bending the botttom frame out. Then when you replace the window you bend the frame back in place and fill the cut with JB Weld or something similar.

There used to be a post on here as to how to proceed let me see if I can find it.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 4th, '16, 21:03

Tony Meola wrote:
If it does not then you may need to resort to putting a cut in the lower corner of the frame and slightly bending the botttom frame out. Then when you replace the window you bend the frame back in place and fill the cut with JB Weld or something similar.

Tony, thanks.
Do you think that by using a car jack, siting between two wooden surfaces (say, the lower one on the side deck and the top one just under the flybridge), positioned around the middle of the total window frame, I would perhaps be able to "pry open", or give the opening a few milimeter extra height to obtain the clearance needed? Without going as far as breaking the existing seized bolts or screws, that is, or deforming the frame itself.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 4th, '16, 21:06

http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.ph ... ows#p85726

http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.ph ... e00#p92678

Yannis

Seek and Ye shall find. Ok the first link will take you to a long thread and you should read through the whole thread. Bob Lilco has several posts on removing the window in a 31 which I am sure is not much different in a 28.

The second post is the removal from a 25, but as you will see the outcome is very similar to the 31.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 4th, '16, 21:11

Yannis wrote: Tony, thanks.
Do you think that by using a car jack, siting between two wooden surfaces (say, the lower one on the side deck and the top one just under the flybridge), positioned around the middle of the total window frame, I would perhaps be able to "pry open", or give the opening a few milimeter extra height to obtain the clearance needed? Without going as far as breaking the existing seized bolts or screws, that is, or deforming the frame itself.

Joking I hope.

Not sure how you would use a car jack.

I would be afraid of cracking the fiberglass. Not advisable.

Let me see if I can find the post that suggested cutting the corner of the window frame.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 4th, '16, 21:30

Re: Windows
Postby Pete Fallon » Apr 20th, '15, 22:36
Yannis

Still searching for you but here is one more. This is Pete Fallon giving advice.

Wursty,
The easiest way is to make a template with door skin, then break the old window out and replace it with plexi glass either tinted or clear. Clean out the old felt track and on a hot day put the Plexi in the sun for a few hours, or in your oven on low heat, (check with the wife before putting it in her oven), wear leather gloves and when its hot but not melted, just so it's pliable enough to bend, put into the frame, it should bend enough to go in, work it in at the forward section where the framework is the widest, Try a piece of scrap Plexi to see how much heat is needed to make it workable. You might have to use a heat gun to heat it up so it is workable, but not hot enough to melt or damage the Plexi- glass. The Plexi glass might have to be a little smaller thickness than the old safety glass which is about 3/8'' thick, But if it is warn enough 3/8" Plexi will go in. Once its into the track don't screw with it until it cools down. It helps to have 2 people when doing this job.
The other way involves removing the screws inside the old window track( which are usually corroded into the frame, they are slotted head screws, breaking the bedding compound loose from the house sides and taking the frame apart at the aft end, more screws on the outside of the framework and it's a major under taking that usually leads to (1) a broken forward window,(2) a broken aluminum frame, (3) a paint job around the window frame and fiberglass on the cabin house sides (4) a lot of swearing and cut fingers. Good luck. Our you could call Capt. Patrick or Tom Oakes and pick their brains on how to do it.
Pete Fallon

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 4th, '16, 22:47

Tony, thank you again.
I' ll try glass first and if I fail I might go plexi.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 4th, '16, 22:56

Tony,

In the threads you sent me, there seems that the 31 side windows might be more difficult to remove.
One, because of the angles of the windows; especially the one fwd.
Two, because the overall opening is smaller, thus allowing for smaller tolerances.
I find the 25 exercise to be closer to my upcoming ordeal...

Tooeez · Post by **Tooeez** » Oct 9th, '16, 20:14

Yannis, here's another thought: a while back I was considering removing the window frames on my 28 to have them powder coated. As I stood next to the boat considering how to get the frames out, I said to myself, After I remove that center post and the frames, what is left to hold up the upper deck and flybridge? I didn't find an answer, so I decided painting in place was a better idea. I think your best bet is try anything you can to remove the window without removing the frame.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 10th, '16, 06:21

Tooeez,

I remember having seen pics taken by Cpt. Pat, showing a step by step removal of the front windows of a 31. He had used car jacks and planks of wood to secure the bridge from collapsing, while he was proceeding to the window swap.

On the other hand, youre right, if the window can be changed without touching the frame that would be optimal.
The issue is if this can be done!
Thanks for the interest.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Oct 10th, '16, 09:12

Yannis,
I believe you are referring to jacking up the ceiling to remove the windshield frame on the 31's.

But once frame is out...the frames still need to be separated to pull out the window pane...and that looks to be a pain (pun intended).
SS screws and Aluminum get along very well with a little salt water mixed in...get along so well they hate to become separated.

I thought a long time about how I was going to replace my cracked side glass. Finally I just gave a good kick and pushed the glass out with a hammer. The glass stayed together as I had tint film on it and glass had the inner plastic film. I used that glass as a templete for Lexan windows in limo black tint. Lexan or Macrolon...it's that bulletproof glass stuff thats plastic.

I first cut a small vertical strip that I used to figure out what I could manipulate into the channel. The lexan bends into the opening, but at the same height the sheet will not slip into the channel as the ends get wedged ...so had to shorten height a little, round over till it could be manhandled. I also made windows a bit longer hoping overlap added a bit of strength. Then altered template accordingly, cutting top section a little shorter. Me and a bud then muscled the lexan into the channel. I also added a thin strip to bottom channel to secure window better.

If you can pay a pro to do it the right way, that would be my 1st choice. That was not an option for me. My choice was to leave it or lose a good portion of my season trying to do the right way.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 10th, '16, 21:28

If you do have to remove the whole window and go Lexan, I do believe you can make a template so that it is one piece instead of two. Caulk it in good and then no leaks. Draw back is you can not open them, but on my 31, we have not opened the side windows since we purchased it 41 years ago.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 10th, '16, 22:11

Carl, Tony, thanks.

Yes, I surely intend to let a pro do the job as he will definitely be the one to measure, cut and give the final form to the pane, whether glas or lexan. Is lexan a form of plexi? Does it age as badly as plexi with inner cracks and fogging ?

No, not opening panes is not an option. In the summer (the only period I use the boat) the sun makes a greenhouse of the cabin if the windows are closed. Opening side windows together with the ...magic fwd opening lower part, create a nice breeze much appreciated in the day and at night.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Oct 11th, '16, 08:00

Yannis wrote:Carl, Tony, thanks.

Yes, I surely intend to let a pro do the job as he will definitely be the one to measure, cut and give the final form to the pane, whether glas or lexan. Is lexan a form of plexi? Does it age as badly as plexi with inner cracks and fogging ?

No, not opening panes is not an option. In the summer (the only period I use the boat) the sun makes a greenhouse of the cabin if the windows are closed. Opening side windows together with the ...magic fwd opening lower part, create a nice breeze much appreciated in the day and at night.

Lexan or Makrolan is a trade name for Polycarbonate. Plexiglass is a trade name for Acrylic.
Both similar in they can be clear, tinted, colored or opaque, both can be used as windows, wind screens, helmet visors etc.

Acrylic is harder, less prone to scratching and can have best clarity...also you can polish out scratches to perfection. It also does not yellow in sun.

Side windows...glass is best choice, but a job to do right.
Polycarbonate is strong BUT flexes where acrylic is brittle and will crack...that was my main reason for using over acrylic. Fall into window I do not want sharp shards of acrylic to be impaling anyone. Scratches and yellows it does...but I went dark black limo...keeps inside cooler, I made sure to buy UV grade to lessen degradation. I like the look and after 10-12 years it polished up pretty good, not the greatest clarity...but that's fine its only to look out and open...if used as windshield, I'd rethink choice to safety glass.

JH_B28 · Post by **JH_B28** » Oct 11th, '16, 14:04

Yannis,

When I took my frames out, I had to do what John said. You have to completely remove them in order to replace the glass. On the top, it is held by machine screws that screw into an aluminum flat backing plate inside of the fiberglass (you cannot see it). On the bottom, it is held by bolts that are welded to the frame and fastened with nuts. Those are "easier" to remove. Most of the top screws were literally frozen and couldn't be unscrewed. I had to use a sawzall with a thin blade to cut them (between the frame and FG). The frames were a bit beat up when I finished but I wasn't going to use re-use them in the end. I replaced with a composite windshield using divinycell foam and cut the openings for the new one-piece glass.

Hope this helps.

-G

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 12th, '16, 00:38

Carl, thanks for the clarifications.

George,

I hear you, however I'm puzzled by two things:
First, even if I take the frame out, wont I still have to somehow cut the frame open or disassemble it, to be able to remove the glass? Or is it that by just removing the frame in one piece (with at least the forward glass still in place) I could somehow twist it to remove the old and put back the new glass?
And second, If I need to remove anything, this is only the stb frame; so, I might have to jack up the flying bridge on the stb side to create some clearance for the frame to slide out (and slide back in, too). Wont this impact the forward windscreen seal (and more so its stb side) as its the closest to the side that will be lifted up?
Where can I buy a brand new stb side frame? Ha, ha....

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 12th, '16, 21:02

http://www.boatwindowframes.com/category/boatwindows

Yannis

Don't know if anyone has used them, but I believe some members have talked to Broadusrose. Follow the link above.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 12th, '16, 22:49

Tony,

When I asked if there are any new frames to buy, I couldnt imagine that...there are indeed!
Thanks !
(Nice work, although just a bit far from my yard ... say, 10k miles or so !)

JH_B28 · Post by **JH_B28** » Oct 14th, '16, 15:10

Yannis wrote:Carl, thanks for the clarifications.

George,

I hear you, however I'm puzzled by two things:
First, even if I take the frame out, wont I still have to somehow cut the frame open or disassemble it, to be able to remove the glass? Or is it that by just removing the frame in one piece (with at least the forward glass still in place) I could somehow twist it to remove the old and put back the new glass?
And second, If I need to remove anything, this is only the stb frame; so, I might have to jack up the flying bridge on the stb side to create some clearance for the frame to slide out (and slide back in, too). Wont this impact the forward windscreen seal (and more so its stb side) as its the closest to the side that will be lifted up?
Where can I buy a brand new stb side frame? Ha, ha....

Hi Yannis,

If I remember correctly (this was a couple of years ago), the frames were lightly welded together in the corners were the long sections meet with the vertical sections and maybe they can be disassembled easily those areas. I think that by only cutting in one corner, you can twist them enough to get the glass out. Or maybe you get lucky and somehow remove the glass without cutting them.

As for your second doubt, you do not have to jack up the flybridge to remove the side windows, or at least I didn't have to. The front windshield is the main structure that support the flybridge loads..... and believe me it is heavyy lol. Just remember to remove all the screws and bolts I mentioned including the ones that go from the side frames into the front windshield. I think they can be located inside the frame rail once you open the front window (slide it back).

Here are a few pics I found of the whole removal process:

In the first picture you can see that the frame came out in two pieces.

Regards,

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 15th, '16, 03:33

Very helpful, George, thank you very much.
Hey, how did your anchor thing come out?

JH_B28 · Post by **JH_B28** » Oct 19th, '16, 10:55

Yannis wrote:Very helpful, George, thank you very much.
Hey, how did your anchor thing come out?

Your welcome.

Still haven't finished it completely, but there is only fairing left to do. The other B28 that is besides me did the same thing and already bought the stainless steel anchor roller. Fit perfectly. He bought the one that tilts down which is very nice. I'll post up a pic once I finish the whole project...someeeeeday LOL.

Regards,

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 19th, '16, 17:39

George, beware of two things:

The tilting anchor roller is practical alright, maybe it's also cool to look at, but it is significantly less sturdy than a fixed one,

and ,two, do not make the mistake I made, by screwing the inox roller support 2-3 cm more aft than appropriate. I did not like it to extend forward so now the anchor point (delta) is scratching my bow! I refuse to make new holes to place it more fwd because these are big holes and theres very little space anyway, I'll have to add a ss protection in the tip of the bow, where the anchor meets the hull.

JH_B28 · Post by **JH_B28** » Oct 20th, '16, 15:41

Yannis wrote:George, beware of two things:

The tilting anchor roller is practical alright, maybe it's also cool to look at, but it is significantly less sturdy than a fixed one,

and ,two, do not make the mistake I made, by screwing the inox roller support 2-3 cm more aft than appropriate. I did not like it to extend forward so now the anchor point (delta) is scratching my bow! I refuse to make new holes to place it more fwd because these are big holes and theres very little space anyway, I'll have to add a ss protection in the tip of the bow, where the anchor meets the hull.

Yannis,

Thanks for the warnings. I was going to buy the fixed one just because of the second point you just mentioned. I always thought that the anchor tip would get too close to the fiberglass when retrieving. I will probably fabricate a thin stainless steel plate that conforms to the shape of the bow. This should resolve the problem.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 21st, '16, 01:13

George,

If your anchor roller support is screwed forward enough, then there is no need for the metal bow protection.

My mistake was that when I was taking measurements to see where to screw the support on the bow, I placed the anchor on it by hand and ...made sure that there was enough clearance between hull and anchor tip.

However, when everything was screwed in place and lifted the anchor with the windlass, I realized that the windlass was more powerful than my arms and had pulled the anchor further back from my initial manual positioning, hence the need for this metal bow protection. I will check though, whether I can move just the roller itself a bit fwd, without moving the support.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Jan 19th, '17, 09:02

Well guys, here it is:

I asked the guys at my yard if they knew somebody who could do the whole work of replacing my broken side window. I was not sure if I needed a blacksmith for the metal parts or a glass guy for the glass part, or both.
The guy who is in charge in my yard proposed a certain technician who, to his knowledge, was good for the job.
I took his advice and contacted him right away - that was around Dec 15th.

The week before xmas, he came for the first inspection and while we were discussing the details, I told him how pissed I was that we would have to take the frame out. He asked me why I'm saying this and I replied that I had talked to some very knowledgable Bertram people who assured me that there is no way to do the swap without taking off and dismantling the frame.
He smiled and replied that if we take the frame out we will run into very deep sh@t and that we imperatively would have to do it without touching the frame. I insisted that he would have to reconsider.

To make the long story short, today we put the new hardened tinted glass window back-on without touching the frame!
It's very snug in its position and I'm very happy about it. While we were at it, we also changed the alu supporting pillar that carries part of the fb weight; it's so nice that next week we'llchange the port side one too.

I dont know what this guy did, the point is that one can change the rear stb window WITHOUT removing the frame on a B 28.

Does anybody want to see any pics?

Wursty · Post by **Wursty** » Jan 19th, '17, 10:58

Hell yeah...need to see how the pro easily resolved this problem so that you wanted to do the other side. Glad to hear that it turned out so well for you!

Navatech · Post by **Navatech** » Jan 19th, '17, 11:36

Yannis wrote:today we put the new hardened tinted glass window back-on without touching the frame!

Come on!... Out with it!... What's the trick!...

Yannis wrote:Does anybody want to see any pics?

Not just yes but HELL YES!...

Tom Curran · Post by **Tom Curran** » Jan 19th, '17, 17:25

We could chip in and buy the tech a case of beer and dinner,,if thats what it takes to spill the beans

Navatech · Post by **Navatech** » Jan 19th, '17, 18:19

Tom Curran wrote:We could chip in and buy the tech a case of beer and dinner,,if thats what it takes to spill the beans

Or a couple of bottles of Ouzo instead of the beers!...

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Jan 19th, '17, 18:55

Ok boys,

I'll try to go down tomorrow to take a few pics.
After the 3rd smartphone I lost from humidity this past summer (sea water is very humid, especially the deep sea water variant) I decided that technology is not yet ready for me, so I now carry this 29.99 mobile, without a camera.
So, I'll do the job with my pad.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jan 19th, '17, 21:51

Yannis

You need to ply him with Uzzo (splg?) and give us the written instructions.

By the way, they do make water proof phones and I am also proof that you can fall in the water with your phone in your pocket and have it come out completely dry. NO it was not in a bag, only in my pocket. We still can not figure that one out.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Jan 20th, '17, 00:26

Tony,

A good friend got upgraded by his son; he got his son's old i-phone 5 or 6 and sold me, for € 70, his own 4s. He told me it's a very good one, so, until my next submarine drill I'll be playing with the big boys!!
I do have a yellow plastic waterproof container that fits keys, phone, money,...., that I use at sea. I'm very happy with it.
Another good friend just puts everything in a similar size ...tupperware !!! It's so funny looking at him walk on the beach like if carrying his mom's spinach pie or meatballs !!

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Jan 20th, '17, 07:45

The fb side support is not yet in place. It has been made in ss, not alu, but needed some trimming so they took it back.
There are silicone shavings a little bit everywhere that I tried to clean today, I'm almost done.
The glass tint is almost identical to the rest, only all other panes are film coated; this one is tinted.
All original grey plastic liners have been cleaned, filled with silicone (only on their glass side) and put back.
The outside vertical ss liner has new felt on its invisible side that contacts the inside one, for air insulation.
The forward window slides back like never before.
The L shaped window stopper - the one on the bottom groove that blocks the rear window from sliding forward - has been cleaned and put back.

JH_B28 · Post by **JH_B28** » Jan 20th, '17, 09:36

Nice!! good work

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jan 20th, '17, 21:56

looks good.

It looks like he notched it on the bottom it at the corner.

Navatech · Post by **Navatech** » Jan 21st, '17, 03:46

Very nice work... But I still don't get how it was done...

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Jan 21st, '17, 06:49

Here we go:

First, while holding the pane from the outside, on a ladder, he roughly positioned the top edge of the new window pane a few centimeters forward from its final position and, starting from the top aft corner, he worked it aft-wards and upwards into the upper innermost groove, until all the top edge was inside. From that exact position, it was measured that the bottom edge clears the bottom metal frame, albeit, WITHOUT the top and bottom plastic liners/sliders.

He held it there, while his assistant applied silicone into the bottom plastic slider which he placed, just the slider, onto the proper bottom groove, that is, in its final position.
So, the bottom plastic liner is now sitting onto its final position, with silicone just on its top, while the pane is still held at an angle, completely outside of the frame.

Then,while he is still pushing the pane upwards, his assistant pushed the pane's bottom edge inwards, so as to go meet the top side of the siting slider that I,from the cabin, was holding down into place while tilting its top edge outwards, towards the bottom pane edge, and, with a reverse prying motion, the pane came to sit inside the slider.

Then, he siliconed the very small plastic slider that sits in the rearmost bottom angle of the pane, as he did for the rearmost main plastic slider too, and placed them both onto the pane.

Then, I pushed from inside the top part of the pane outwards, to go right under its proper top groove and become vertical.

Then, they worked together so that one applied silicone into the upper plastic slider while the other was simultaneously sliding it backwards over the window top edge. The measurements that he had taken were apparently so accurate that this top slider was sliding snugly over the pane securing it in place, while the bottom silicone was flowing out as it was compressed inside the bottom slider.

Then, he did some fine tuning of the plastic sliders and pushed the whole assembly aft into its final position, he screwed the L shaped metal holder into place and he called it a day.

This job requires 3 people, two on the outside / one inside, and approximately 15 minutes. I believe the secret lies in the exact measurements.

Navatech · Post by **Navatech** » Jan 21st, '17, 07:33

Yannis wrote:I believe the secret lies in the exact measurements.

Doesn't it always?!... Another question, the way the original fractured means it was safety glass... Is the new glass the same?!...

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Jan 21st, '17, 07:40

I think so.

I mean that he told me that it was "baked".
Isn't this it?
It's also visible in the pic, it says safety glass.

I hope it doesn't have to prove itself again....

Navatech · Post by **Navatech** » Jan 21st, '17, 08:18

Yannis wrote:I mean that he told me that it was "baked".

Safety glass may mean one (or a combination) of several things... It may mean tempered glass (which quite possibly is called "baked glass" in Greece/Greek as it's basically a heating treatment)... It may mean laminated glass which means that the glass is basically a sandwich of two (or more) layers of glass with a sort of plastic (sometimes tinted) between the layers... It may also mean a combination... For example, laminated glass where the glass used is tempered glass...

The advantage of tempted glass is that it breaks in a multitude of small pieces thereby avoiding big sharp pieces... The advantage of laminated glass is that the pieces are kept together rather then spread all over the place...

As you can see in the picture of the original the glass is broken in mostly small pieces... Indicative of tempted glass... As you can also see, the pieces are somehow kept together... Indicative of laminated glass...

Yannis wrote:It's also visible in the pic, it says safety glass.

I must have missed that detail... What that term actually means in Greece is something I can't speculate on... I would hope it's a combination of tempted and laminated glass...

Yannis wrote:I hope it doesn't have to prove itself again....

You, me and everybody else here... Having said that, should it happen to you (or anybody else) it's important that bodily harm is avoided... Which is why I asked to begin with...