Three piece deck

[El Dorado]

We're going make our own three piece deck with the Captains drains. For those of you who have done it, do you lay the glass up on the three panels then router the hatches out or cut the hatches out of the Coosa and lay them up separate?

[CamB25]

somewhat off your topic, but when I was at the Annapolis show I reviewed the Worton Creek B31 restoration. They created a 1 piece, removable deck...somehow, some way. They said the owner did not want seams. Tricky, but it can be done, and theirs looked great.

I would glass the panels before cutting hatches. I think there is a write up in the How to section

[Rawleigh]

I made mine out of plywood 16 years ago before I found this site. I used a 1/4" router bit with a top bearing to cut the hatches out using templates. I then glassed them and painted them with Awlgrip nonskid. I used Taco aluminum trim around the hatches.

[El Dorado]

I'll be happy if we can figure out the three panels let alone a single seemless deck. Wharton Creek is like Picasso - we're more like finger painters.

[Tony Meola]

I dont think Greg (thumbs Up) frequens the board too much but I believe he built his deck then glassed it. That would be the best way of not doing double glass work.

[Carl]

We're going make our own three piece deck with the Captains drains. For those of you who have done it, do you lay the glass up on the three panels then router the hatches out or cut the hatches out of the Coosa and lay them up separate?

My guess is that depends on how much coosa board you want to buy, how tight you want your seams.


The last stewart of my boat used a billboard sign...lasted a good long while.

Me, I covered them once, painted over the covering then though about replacing with cored material...got to the planning stage and found a used glass deck and shipped it up from Florida. Much easier to do a few repairs then make a deck.

As to a one piece removable deck...Personally I like being able to take them out individually if the need arises. A muffler leak...a few screws and out it comes. Wanna work on rudder shelf...couple screws and out...Drop a strut...I think you get the idea.

One piece...even if light coosa...where do you put it. If i the water where do you stand to remove it, replace it.

[bob lico]

follow my thread i did a multible photo explanation. most important use 3/16" or 1/4" router bit to cut out hatches this will allow you to make deck with 3 pieces of #26 blue coosa. a one piece deck would be detrimental because you WANT center piece to be screw down every 6" because it holds the chair and because it runs between motor covers it never has to be remove to change gears,engines.two out pieces are easily removed and held with 3M 4000 and interlocked with 4" outside (closes to hull side) drain gutter.

[El Dorado]

Thanks, I've followed a lot of your individual builds.

Bob - I have your deck build printed, but I wasn't sure if you glassed the three panels first and used the router to cut the hatches after they had been laid up.

[bob lico]

cut the 3 pieces to size (tip) the half lap of the center section is the bottom half of lap joint and falls directly over floor supports on port and starboard side of fuel tank thats "ground 0 " for alignment you now put a ss screw every 6" on that lap joint then after cutting out hatches very carefully use guides for router cuts for hatches and use pie plate for radius on four courners of hatches for router to follow. don`t worry about 1/4" space created by router cut out because continuous SS hinge fits into space created between hatch cover and remaining cockpit sole. i have no panels in my cockpit and gain 8+ inches on both sides of cockpit but MOST important a toe kick for your feet to go under when leaning over the gunwale. so i use a 4" piece of AZAK brand pvc board tight to hull side and cockpit sole with interlock. the pvc board will expand and contract with hull and 3m-4000 uv in seam good for a thousand years but can be remove wthout damageing cockpit NO SCREWS on port and starboard pcs!!!!!!!!!!!!