I am going to rip out my old teak deck and build a new cockpit sole for Old Sport. The job will include beefing up the strut pads, new rudder posts, and new fuel tank. End goal is to have a 100% composite deck and substructure.
I have not decided if I am going to buy a kit or make it myself. Would love input.
-Tips for the overall job
-Costs, kit vs building
-Where to start and how tos for building a substructure that will be at the right hight/have some crown to the deck
Lots of things to think about before I start ripping up the old deck. I would love to just fire up the sawzall and have the deck out but I am sure there is a more thorough way to go about it.
I know alot of you have done this or had it done so would love to hear peoples thoughts
Cockpit sole build
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Re: Cockpit sole build
http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.ph ... ck#p107409
http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.ph ... eck#p99326
http://bertram31.com/proj/tips/index.htm
Hopefully it helps, I attached a couple of threads on building a deck. If you do a search you will probably find more. Bob Lilco has posted numerous times about his build.
YOu will probably save a few dollars building your own. If you build your own you control the design and quality.
I believe that Jimmy G had some issues with the deck he put in. I am not sure but I think he might have gotten it from Cabrerra, but don't quote me on that.
The easiest way, buy a pre-made deck. If it is too expensive or does not meet your needs build one. In a pinch and if on a budget, go back to 3/4 inch exterior plywood. Give a couple of coats of glass on both sides and it will probably outlast you.
http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.ph ... eck#p99326
http://bertram31.com/proj/tips/index.htm
Hopefully it helps, I attached a couple of threads on building a deck. If you do a search you will probably find more. Bob Lilco has posted numerous times about his build.
YOu will probably save a few dollars building your own. If you build your own you control the design and quality.
I believe that Jimmy G had some issues with the deck he put in. I am not sure but I think he might have gotten it from Cabrerra, but don't quote me on that.
The easiest way, buy a pre-made deck. If it is too expensive or does not meet your needs build one. In a pinch and if on a budget, go back to 3/4 inch exterior plywood. Give a couple of coats of glass on both sides and it will probably outlast you.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
Re: Cockpit sole build
DJ,
I built my own deck with the help of some knowledgeable friends. Give me a ring and I can tell you what we did. Only as a reference.
Hope that top is looking good!
D
I built my own deck with the help of some knowledgeable friends. Give me a ring and I can tell you what we did. Only as a reference.
Hope that top is looking good!
D
- Pete Fallon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1318
- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 23:10
- Location: Stuart Fl. and Salem, Ma.
Re: Cockpit sole build
Dan Case,
I built my decks out of 80 pound density PVC Foam board 1" thick, 3 layers of 1808 on the bottom and 3 layers on the top. I used white oak boards for the deck supports, but I would used FRP channel from Mc Master Carr inside. The trim piece at the transom was teak but I would go solid core all the way to the transom to keep deck from making noise. It took 4-4'x 8' sections to do the entire cockpit and the hatch between the engine boxes, had a small section left over for other uses. The PVC board was from Michigan Composites via supplier when I was building boats back in early 2000. I rolled gel coat and when it was almost tacky sprinkled on medium grit non skid with a baby powder container( small holes in the top of plastic container). If your going to put in a fighting chair or rocket launcher I would insert a piece of backing board(marine plywood or something real solid so the screws do not crush the backing material). When I did it was around $500.00 per panel and supplies. I had access to spray guns and chopper guns and a 5x10 glass top flat table and vacuum bagging materials. Make sure you gutter the hatches into a PVC pipe system and put rubber pads for noise under the hatches. Another thing to think about is to make some type of upright to attach your side and transom panels to. I used FRP cut offs from the hull deck flanges, they were about 3" x3" L shaped that ran along the bottoms of the panels. Call me at 561-310-7179 if you want to talk.
Pete Fallon
I built my decks out of 80 pound density PVC Foam board 1" thick, 3 layers of 1808 on the bottom and 3 layers on the top. I used white oak boards for the deck supports, but I would used FRP channel from Mc Master Carr inside. The trim piece at the transom was teak but I would go solid core all the way to the transom to keep deck from making noise. It took 4-4'x 8' sections to do the entire cockpit and the hatch between the engine boxes, had a small section left over for other uses. The PVC board was from Michigan Composites via supplier when I was building boats back in early 2000. I rolled gel coat and when it was almost tacky sprinkled on medium grit non skid with a baby powder container( small holes in the top of plastic container). If your going to put in a fighting chair or rocket launcher I would insert a piece of backing board(marine plywood or something real solid so the screws do not crush the backing material). When I did it was around $500.00 per panel and supplies. I had access to spray guns and chopper guns and a 5x10 glass top flat table and vacuum bagging materials. Make sure you gutter the hatches into a PVC pipe system and put rubber pads for noise under the hatches. Another thing to think about is to make some type of upright to attach your side and transom panels to. I used FRP cut offs from the hull deck flanges, they were about 3" x3" L shaped that ran along the bottoms of the panels. Call me at 561-310-7179 if you want to talk.
Pete Fallon
1961 Express Vizcaya Hull 186 12-13-61
Re: Cockpit sole build
Dan-
My 2 cents. I've replaced the underdeck structure twice--once on the Anna E. (1969 B31 FBC) and on Crows Nest (1977 FBC). Both boats had glasstech aftermarket f'glass decks. I took the decks out, and copied the heights of the underdeck structure. I used mahogany like Bertram had. Its readily available to me, easy to work with, and will last and last, especially when epoxied up.
If I didn't start with an aftermarket deck, and were making my own, I'd do a couple of things. One would be to run the deck all the way to the outside of the hull on the port, starboard, and stern. I'd also make my deck, like everything else I make, so that I could take it out if need be. The f'glass decks are great because I can take it out in an hour or so and have access to everything. I may or may not use mahogany for the deck supports if I were starting from scratch, but I'd definitely make the deck itself out of coosa or whatever composite Capt. Patrick recommends.
John
My 2 cents. I've replaced the underdeck structure twice--once on the Anna E. (1969 B31 FBC) and on Crows Nest (1977 FBC). Both boats had glasstech aftermarket f'glass decks. I took the decks out, and copied the heights of the underdeck structure. I used mahogany like Bertram had. Its readily available to me, easy to work with, and will last and last, especially when epoxied up.
If I didn't start with an aftermarket deck, and were making my own, I'd do a couple of things. One would be to run the deck all the way to the outside of the hull on the port, starboard, and stern. I'd also make my deck, like everything else I make, so that I could take it out if need be. The f'glass decks are great because I can take it out in an hour or so and have access to everything. I may or may not use mahogany for the deck supports if I were starting from scratch, but I'd definitely make the deck itself out of coosa or whatever composite Capt. Patrick recommends.
John
1968 B20 Moppie - Hull # 201-937
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
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