bertram31.com

Brian Y

I must agree with all of the concerns mentioned, regarding plastic, check valves, and potential failure, due to wear & tear or neglect. With that said, I can speak with a little experience, regarding the use of these check-valves. I have installed many of them, and have used them for as much as five...

Brian Y

Good call John, I forgot to respond to that one... I only have three bilge pumps, so I don't know where the forth positive connection would come from. They are currently all connected to the 1/4" terminals, leaving the larger terminals for the ACR, starter, and selector switch connections. I guess I...

Brian Y

Here is a picture of one of the bilge pump check valves. I have made the hose-run a little shorter since this picture, but this is the general idea, and It has worked well for me in the past.

Brian Y

Thanks guys! Where to start? All thru-hulls are stainless. The engine bed-area is water tight, so no problem with spillage. I can retain an oil-spill and pump it out, or drain it, if necessary. Both of the forward bilge pumps go to the PVC pipe, and both have a short piece of hose, and a check-valve...

Brian Y

Thank John! This sounds a lot more simple that I had figured. I am goint to install two ACR's, one between each bank of batteries, and just connect the postitves from each battery to it... I will connect the alternator wires to the outboard battery on each side, as this is likely the one that will m...

Brian Y

Here are some more pictures

Brian Y

Gentlemen, I was hoping to get some advise on battery connections... I am trying to finish-up the engine room wiring an prepare to bolt the new 6BTA 270's down, for the last time. (I hope) I currently have 4 optima gel batteries, and have wired bilge pumps to the outboard Port battery, and the house...

Brian Y

The boat is looking great! I am very jealous of the teak deck. To me: that is the difference between a real fishing boat and a toy... Great job! Can't wait to see it after the top coat.

Brian

Brian Y

Thanks for the thoughts and input, Guys. I have a new design in mind, now. I am going to move the bilge-pump panel under the dash and flush-mount to the out-board port-side, so that it can be seen and accessed, when the door is open. I think that I am goning to leave the dummy lights as they are, fo...

Brian Y

Thanks Guys! This gives me a lot to think about. I haven't drilled any holes, or cut for the templates, yet. I did make some nice looking routered mounting plates out of black 1/4" PCB board, and I cut the dummy light panels out of the stock Cummins panel so I would still have the little pictures. T...

Brian Y

I never got to know Vic, but I miss him already. I can't tell you how helpful all of his knowledge and experience has been to me as I read these older posts. I am here in Texas, and if I ever get out of the boat-yard, I would love to join you guys in celebrating Vic's memory in Por Eads. I love fish...

Brian Y

Brian Y

To the Faithful, Ok, So I have managed to find some older threads that discuss problems people have had with the Cummins circut boards, and the concerns of keeping them dry. I am about to begin the process of installing these guages and wiring harnesses and I was hoping to get some advise, before I ...

Brian Y

I found this picture on the website for the Texas International Fishing Tournament (TIFT). I think it was taken, sometime in the 60's or 70's... Anyway, I thought you guys might enjoy.

Brian Y

Thanks Bob,

That is a good reason. I am not planning on a gererator, so I am leaning toward getting rid of the bolts. So far, I haven't seen any draw-backs...

Thanks,

Brian

Brian Y

Brian Y

Bob, I think I understand your plan for the hatch, with glassing the 2" cutt-off piece to the deck and raising the hinges up. Will you also be glassing the perimeter piece (outboard of the hatch, to the deck. If so, will you also be removing the carriage bolts on the top of this piece and glassing t...

Brian Y

Great plan! I am going to try and copy your hatch design... My deck is Nida-core, but I am patching-in some 3/4 Penski board, and will be making the hatches out of it.

Thanks for the advise,

Brian

Brian Y

That's a great idea! I wish I would have asked you, before I glassed-in the barriers. I am planning to go with something like this:

Brian Y

One more question: I see that you have routered an edge for the aft hatch. Will you be attempting to make this water-tight, with drains and gutters? I am going to be cutting some hatches, this week, and I am still contemplating installing drains and hoses. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks, B...

Brian Y

Looking good Bob! Especially to cold beer! I was wondering what your plans are, for building a partition to keep water from flowing into the engine beds. This is one of the projects that I am currently working on, and I would love to see what others have done. My main concern is keeping wash-down wa...

Brian Y

John,

I just bought 40' of this material and multiple fittings from John Bowen, at Elite Diesel, in Clear Lake. Joe, in the parts department gave me wholesale prices. You may want to check them-out, if you are nearby.

Brian Y

I believe the best solution is to use gel-coat as your primer. They are making gel-coat that is more user-friendly, these days, and you don't need to apply a spray wax for curing. I generally use Awlgrip 545 as a primer, but recognize that there are several problems with it, especially when painting...

Brian Y

I just had to jump in, here, and add a story that I recently herd from a landowner, here in Texas. I work in the Oil and Gas business, and heard this story from a landowner in Cotulla, Texas. His name is Ralph Guttman, and he owned a B33 for several years. He used to take his boat to Venice and Port...

Brian Y

Thanks Bob, I actually have material to build the deck myself. I have a couple of sheets of Nida core, and a sheet of Penske Board, both 3/4". I have a few yards of biaxle and plenty of West Systems. I'm using the Penske and biaxle on the bridge, right now. Unfortunatly, with the limited time that I...

Brian Y

Most of these would fit in the box...

Brian Y

Wow Bob! That's a beautiful boat and a nice tuna! I can see your point about the fishbox room, and I love the gin-pole. I haven't seen one in years. Incedentally, the fish box I have now, is inside of the salon, and is about 8 feet-long and well insulated. I could feasably fit about 9 tuna that size...

Brian Y

Thanks guys. I will definitely give some more thought to pulling the deck and going up and over with the exhaust. So far, everything is fitting pretty well, with no changes to the engine boxes, other than making them smaller. We have replaced a long list of items on this boat, and we haven't cut cor...

Brian Y

Here is a recent picture of the boat...

Brian Y

Thanks Mikey, Much appreciated. I have had this boat for three years, now, and I have chosen various projects to complete each Winter. This is a project boat for myself and my father, and as much as we would love to pull the trigger and make everything better than new, the fishing is where we find m...

Brian Y

Brian Y

[quote]The starboard mixing elbow will need to be cutt to fit

Apologies,

I must have gotten my ports and starboards confused[/quote]

Brian Y

Thanks Guys! Harry, Capt. Patrick told me you had done this with the turbo, and I was curious how you made it work. I could see that there were a lot of modifications that would come with it. Thanks for sharing! It looks like I'm am going to be able to achieve the original plan that I had intended. ...

Brian Y

The deck is screwed and glued to the supporting I-beams. It appears to be an epoxy-glue mix. Unfortunately most of the installations by the previous owner either us epoxy or 5200. I can get the 5200 loose with a heat gun, but the epoxy is a different story. I would like to replace the deck an build ...

Brian Y

Thanks Bruce, The deck, on this boat was built with Nida Core, and has a couple layers of glass (biaxle) on the top and bottom. Unfortunately the deck is supported by a series of fiberglass I-beams, which have been attached to the original stringers. The deck is screwed and epoxied to the I-beams an...

Brian Y

Thanks guys! The boat had Detroit 6V53 naturals, before, and alot of work was done to make room for these motors. A portion of the deck has been removed, and this gives me some room to work. The exhaust system is already 5", and this was one of the determining factors in choosing these new engines. ...

Brian Y

Hello all, I am new to the board and thought I would try an solicite some advice. I am currently trying to fit a couple of 270 Cummins in my B31, and am having difficulty squeezing the port engine in place. The mixing elbow is for 5" exhaust, and the factory configuration protrudes into the companio...

bertram31.com

Search found 37 matches

Bilge pump

Help With Blue Seas ACR Switch

Bridge Lay-out Picture

Cummins Guages/Circut Board Installation Help

Classic 31' Bertram Picture

Port Eads Goats

Some Texas fish

Fandango

Pictures

Help with 6BTA 270 Install