bertram31.com

CamB25

Looks great! Good luck in the water!

CamB25

Cam, I rechecked NCDOT and found info below, but as Chris stated the annual fee is only $100 and that allows you to go up to 12', so really not a problem towing the B-25 or B-26. I also agree that a clean, original B-26 outboard version would be a fantastic choice. OVERSIZE/OVERWEIGHT PERMIT HANDBO...

CamB25

I believe the law is 10 foot width limit for boat trailers in NC. I have towed mine many times here without issue.

Outboards are the way to go in this area.

CamB25

Lesson imn learning with all my hatches is to leave plenty of gap around the edge. After glass, fairing, primer, and paint they don't fit! Too tight!

CamB25

Sure, Frank, but first we'll ride a slightly modified B25!!

CamB25

Anyone seen my winning lottery ticket?

https://www.ah360views.com/blog/bertram-yachts-new-61

CamB25

Been there, done that!

CamB25

Looks great, Ian! What did you use on the mold? What is the brown material? thanks

CamB25

Assuming you are using a 30" shaft outboard, cut the transom at 30 inches(or little less) up from a line perpendicular to the bottom of the hull. I made a large square to find the mark. You will cut into the bump out.

CamB25

Sounds like the motor might be too high in the water. The 300 should have plenty of guts to plane off well below 20.

CamB25

Wow! That's going to be fun! The stringers are 100% fiberglass, so you shouldn't need to cut anything out to fix any de-bonding issues. What year is the boat? Do you have the center stringer in the grid? The bump out part of the transom is made with 2, 3/4 inch plywood pieces. Cut the inner glass aw...

CamB25

I think I understand. On my boat, the OEM battery area is designated as "future fish box area". We installed the two bulkheads, but nothing else. No plans to use it right now, but I know where to cut. On your boat, you extended the tank aft into the old battery area, so you are left with only the ol...

CamB25

I was thinking about year 2...when you build the dog house/leaning post. You have a big project this year with the stringer/deck/cap/tank/engine plans. Might want to hold off on hatch work. Make a couple of plywood boxes for the batteries and strap them down somewhere aft.

CamB25

I went back and forth on battery placement and settled on putting the batteries under the helm seat, on deck. I didn't like the idea of batteries in the low point of the boat, or having to remove a deck hatch to access the switch. My third battery is up forward. It is used for the bow thruster only....

CamB25

Are you relocating all of the electrical systems to the center console?

CamB25

You were wise to save the perimeter of the old deck. Here' s a picture of my foam outboard of the stringers
https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/Dil ... 1cxXubrvFq

CamB25

That's bizarre. I would go forward and find the start/end of that separation. Break out the 4.5" grinder and the 36 grit disks! Here's a picture of mine after grinding. We used one layer of 1808 glass overlappping all the way down the outside and inside of the main stringers to reinforce everything....

CamB25

Thanks, Scot. That seems to be the spot. I sprayed the cap with 3 coats of Awlcraft 2000 - Oyster White today. It took every bit of a quart +mixers to do it. Lays out nice and shines pretty well. Highlights all the imperfections in my fabrication work, too!

CamB25

Thanks!

CamB25

I'm sure they are all about the same. If you do not have access to 110v, use a torch. Just have some sort of shield to keep the heat/flame from ruining something nearby.

CamB25

That's the spot...just need to find that spot on my modified cap. Any chance you could measure? thanks

CamB25

for some reason my original reply did not post...probably operator error. I use a heat gun with a tip that wraps around the wire. Directs heat right where you need it. I never had good luck with butane torches. Yes, you need 110v for a good heat gun. Ancor strippers and ratcheting crimper are must h...

CamB25

I may have asked this question in the past, but I can't find the thread... I need to decide on the location of the midship cleats before I paint the cap Friday. Based on my old pictures, these are located somewhere aft of the max beam and forward of the fuel fills. Can someone give me a rough measur...

CamB25

August 2009...

https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/oNw ... yJfg9kbMyj

The only item in this picture that remains after this redesign and overhaul is the shop vac. I still use it every day!

CamB25

Yes, Headliner replacement is one of the applications he highlights in the videos.

CamB25

I was searching the great wide web for a good method to attach coaming bolsters and I ran across this panel mount system. I'm going to give them a test drive. Check it out:

https://beauclip.com/

CamB25

Rocket wrote:Cam, are you sure the center console layout is the right choice? You still have time to change it!

Now that you mention it....I do need an alternate form of propulsion, Maybe a sailing rig and a centerboard set-up?

To quote my wife, "GET IT DONE!"

CamB25

Thanks, guys! Lots more to do, but it's getting there! The big progress factor for me was having a reasonable place to work on the boat. I don't know how folks can do this work in their driveways or under a tarp. I tried it and struggled.

CamB25

Hard to believe...after almost 9 years, Saturday was the last all-day sanding party (of one). Cap is now at 400 and ready for paint, rest of boat is at Worton creek for paint. My hands hurt!
https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/Oue ... oOS1tOROIN

CamB25

Welcome aboard!

I'm not familiar with those boats, but I think you can assume that they are not "runners". Will require deep pockets if you cannot do the work yourself. $20k seems like a lot of money until you start buying boat parts. Then it seems like a down payment! Ha!

Find a good runner!

CamB25

20 Baron + 380hp = very snappy?

This might be a tad bit understated, don't you think? We want video!!!

CamB25

Definitely sounds electrical. My lawn mower was doing this last night...turned out to be a loose spark plug wire. Caveat: the lawn mover does not have a big block chevy engine! Run at idle, wiggle everything to check for a loose/degraded connection. Be careful around high voltage (spark plug wires)....

CamB25

John, Sounds like you have a combination of bad grounds and high resistance connections, along with mysterious battery wiring, questionable gauges, and who knows what type of wire. Fun! Try to simplify as much as possible for the season. If you need a hand, you can borrow my brain and body for a day...

CamB25

Sounds like you found your time to plane problem!

CamB25

Amazing! In the thread he says they added 14" of sheer and flair to the boat.

CamB25

Very creative with the duck bill scupper fix! Your experience is convincing me to go ahead with trim tabs now. I was think I would wait, but I'm likely to have similar issues. My outboard is on a 10" jackplate, so I'm 20" or so closer to the hull than you, and I have much more weight aft. But...I ha...

CamB25

That's a great non-skid technique! And, it's All Natural!

It's a deep v...need to load the weigh aft, not forward. Scot has a good quote from the Hunt folks on this.

Separate the scupper issue from the planning issue...the two are unrelated.

CamB25

This is great! Thanks for sharing the photos! Weight - she is too light in the stern, at least in the empty pictures. You want those chines in the water. I would not add weight to the bow just yet... Trim tabs? - I don't see any in the photos. Wayne Willard from Hunt Yachts (worked with the "man" ba...

CamB25

slow down...you are making me dizzy.

CamB25

Tony, Don't forget, West Marine will price match. Just show them the same item on a webpage and they will lower their price. Must be patient with West Marine. I ordered $600 worth of standard Ancor wire during their recent sale. Their pricing was the best, but delivery is taking weeks and weeks. Sp...

CamB25

16 oz of dirty, smelly old water after one week of drip, drip, drip from a small hole drilled in the aft end of the 1st strake (closest to shine). This is not the strake with the long crack. https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/2xybqMaFVRwwXDsrZq0orR1YdXXJhBdlExpXwabgd50 I proceeded to kick it over w...

CamB25

Lars - the hull closes off all of these strakes. No need to breach the hull to repair this. I have a magic potion of 2 part foam, epoxy, and fiberglass planned for these areas! Yes, I am glad I found them now rather than later! Tony - good advice. I have the sections open now. It will be months befo...

CamB25

Spent some time on my back with a small grinding wheel. These pictures are taken from the ground looking up at the strakes. The dark spots are water droplets. You can make out a crack running through the repair area. Looks like an old repair that has let go. The pink stuff seems to be bondo. It's pa...

CamB25

Thanks, Scot. I have screwed up the terminology...these cracks are in the lifting strakes, not the chines. I read your write-up on the chine issue many years ago, and mine are good. They are now somewhat reinforced with the new deck. When I get back the boat shed I will drill holes in the aft-most s...

CamB25

Very interesting. Thanks for posting, Lars. If I remember correctly, you have a RIVA 25? What year? Where were these produced?

Thanks
Cam

CamB25

Wow! That is a pretty boat! Congratulations and good luck with her!

Welcome aboard!
Cam

CamB25

Good reading for my strake crack issues! Don't know why I referred to the strakes as chines...maybe my respirator has a whole in it!

thanks Yannis!

CamB25

The chines are hollow cavities, but I don't believe they are open to the interior of the boat. In cross section they look like a triangle of fiberglass - not open to the interior of the boat. At least this is what I see from my old pictures of the boat with deck removed, and from working on the bow ...

CamB25

Thanks, Tommy. She will be Blue! The bottom was stripped, ground, repaired, and prep up through a first coat of paint (just to hold the work). This is new damage since 2010. I'll need to grind out those areas to attempt to find a root cause. Might be remnants of an old, old repair that has let go.

CamB25

Deck has been replaced. We reinforced the stringers with 1808/epoxy all the way/both sides. 100% re-done from the keel up.

I think you might be on to something.... long term shrinkage from all the reinforcements?

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