Wax Time
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
Wax Time
Anyone have any strong opinions on wax brands, any better results as far as lasting the season.Saw someone using a 3M wax in a blk/purple bottle and it came out real good but hard to work with had to be applied with a wheel.Been using Nu-Finish only complaint it seems to hold dirt and streaks but a good shine. TXS..................................Bill G.
Last season I did the port side with Rejex and the starboard with Meguires. Boat look pretty good, but when I pull the boat for it's spring cleaning and waxing I will post.
I have to say Rejex is a PITA compared to Meguires. Meguires easy on easy off in the sun or not. Rejex is easy on PITA on the "wax off" part.
I have to say Rejex is a PITA compared to Meguires. Meguires easy on easy off in the sun or not. Rejex is easy on PITA on the "wax off" part.
Does it apply like wax? Can you apply over wax? I like to buff Alchemy out with the cleaner wax first, to bring out the great shine, and then I use the ultra performance wax. It looks great, but is a full weekend project. I have rarely heard a bad thing about rejex, and am tempted, but don't really want to mess with what is a winning formula for me.
I know the direct sunlight issue with rejex can be a PITA, but I've found it no more diffucult to wipe off than the meguires. I can do the entire hull (on/off) in just under 2 hours. Its about 50-55 minutes per side. I always put 2 coats on the top sides and 3 on the transom and corners.
The directions say you can apply over wax, but it will reduce its effectiveness. The first time I used it I polished the hull with a machine and 3M's finesse it II. Then, per Capt Pat's suggestion, I applied a meguires machine glaze. Finally followed with 2 coats of rejex.
Now, I just wash the hull and apply the rejex. Couldn't be easier. If I could figure out how to post a pic I would, but you check out the boat here:
http://www.bertram33.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1596
The directions say you can apply over wax, but it will reduce its effectiveness. The first time I used it I polished the hull with a machine and 3M's finesse it II. Then, per Capt Pat's suggestion, I applied a meguires machine glaze. Finally followed with 2 coats of rejex.
Now, I just wash the hull and apply the rejex. Couldn't be easier. If I could figure out how to post a pic I would, but you check out the boat here:
http://www.bertram33.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1596
Regards,
Doug L.
Doug L.
Bill G,
I've visited this site for quite some time now but never posted. I recently registered and thought I would mention that we have a small company that operates in NJ. We sell inshore and offshore tackle as well as boat cleaning products. We have bottled our own boat wash's and wax that we think work great. I have a painted 31 and when I use the wax, I find it unbelievably easy to work. It also stands up nicely to the salt water elements and it leaves our boat looking good all summer. If you want me to send you a bottle to try, I would be more than happy to do it. Send me an email with your address and I will get a bottle out to you to try this week. If your boat is gel, our product will clean through mild oxidation and leave the boat looking great. (and your arms wont feel like falling off after you're done) Let me know if you want to try some.
I've visited this site for quite some time now but never posted. I recently registered and thought I would mention that we have a small company that operates in NJ. We sell inshore and offshore tackle as well as boat cleaning products. We have bottled our own boat wash's and wax that we think work great. I have a painted 31 and when I use the wax, I find it unbelievably easy to work. It also stands up nicely to the salt water elements and it leaves our boat looking good all summer. If you want me to send you a bottle to try, I would be more than happy to do it. Send me an email with your address and I will get a bottle out to you to try this week. If your boat is gel, our product will clean through mild oxidation and leave the boat looking great. (and your arms wont feel like falling off after you're done) Let me know if you want to try some.
"Ashley Danielle"
1971 FBC - Pt Pleasant, NJ
1971 FBC - Pt Pleasant, NJ
- CaptPatrick
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I used Rejex on my flybridge - it seems to hold up better than the starbrite PTEF
1977 B31 (315 Cummins) Build thread --->https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-ho ... model.html
2010 Key West Bay Reef | 150 Yamaha
1986 Bertram 28 260 Mercruisers [SOLD]
2010 Key West Bay Reef | 150 Yamaha
1986 Bertram 28 260 Mercruisers [SOLD]
Our boat is painted, but a couple of years ago when the wife was doing the spring clean and wax a detailer guy gave her some YachtBright to use and the proper sequence.
1 -coat cleanerwax (what ever's on sale) maybe two in stuborn spots.
1st -coat YachtBright polish on by hand and off with the buffer
2nd -coat YachBright poish on by hand and off by hand.
The only problem I've got now is the top side paint is wearing thin, its a 15+ year old paint job which wasn't a good one to start.
I think what makes the difference is the polish top coat, like YachtBright or Rejex, it's harder than wax. But it won't clean at all which is why the first coat is cleanerwax.
br,
JohnD
1 -coat cleanerwax (what ever's on sale) maybe two in stuborn spots.
1st -coat YachtBright polish on by hand and off with the buffer
2nd -coat YachBright poish on by hand and off by hand.
The only problem I've got now is the top side paint is wearing thin, its a 15+ year old paint job which wasn't a good one to start.
I think what makes the difference is the polish top coat, like YachtBright or Rejex, it's harder than wax. But it won't clean at all which is why the first coat is cleanerwax.
br,
JohnD
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