Best place to get IPE decking in Western Suffolk?

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captbone
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Best place to get IPE decking in Western Suffolk?

Post by captbone »

Best place to get IPE decking in Western Suffolk?
Whaler1777
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Post by Whaler1777 »

I've bought ipe at allers in I think Copaigue or lindenhurst right on montauk highway... Cash gets you a better price
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Ed Curry
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Post by Ed Curry »

I second Allers. Good guys and fair prices. They talked me out of using the plastic years ago and turned me onto the Ipe. Been replacing all the decking with Ipe for the past 10 years.
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Post by captbone »

Thanks! Thats perfect. I knew you guys would have the best answer.

I just googled them and realized that I must drive past them 5 time a day.
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Pete Fallon
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Post by Pete Fallon »

CaptBone,
Be carefull with epie if you have any type of allergies, I have a friend thats in the wood supply business, he can not cut epie without breaking out into hives and a nasty rash. Also make sure that you have plenty of sharp blades around when you start cutting, I've never seen a blade get so dull so fast as when cutting epie. Just a word of caution when working with iron wood and it will sink if you drop it overboard.
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Post by RAWicklund »

These guys have a NY location and publish their prices for comparison.

http://www.advantagelumber.com/decking2.htm

I've only bought ipe plugs from them (cheaper then cutting my own)

What kind of fastening system are you going to use? Tiger claw is the best hidden fastener system IMO.... make sure to end seal the boards (anchorseal or equivilent)

I just did 3 rooms at my camp with some ipe T&G... love the stuff.

good luck

Ray
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Post by captbone »

Pete/Raw

Thank you for the insight.

My dock is only 40ft wide so it should not be a lot of wood.
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Post by CamB25 »

'Bone...a couple of suggestions when working with Ipe.

1. pre-drill is absolutely required for any screw-type attachments
2. Wear a respirator when cutting. The grain is so tight that cutting creates a dust cloud.
3. Use Anchor Seal (or low viscosity epoxy) to seal all board ends to prevent splitting.
4. If you use the hidden clip type attachement systems, apply a bead of construction adhesive to the joists. The adhesive will prevent rocking/popping of boards as things weather and move around. The clip systems use very small trim screws.
5. pre-oil the boards with Penofin if you want the dark brown color to last. Be ware that Ipe does not absorp oils well (or anything else for that matter). In a full sun application, I would let the wood go grey.

I've built decks and outdoor furniture using Ipe. Let me know if you have
any questions.

Good Luck!
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PeterPalmieri
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Post by PeterPalmieri »

Cam, is IPE suitable for a table? I'm going to build a picnic table for the yard this summer?
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CamB25
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Post by CamB25 »

I've made benches, end tables, even mailboxes out of Ipe. One thing to remember about ipe is that it is VERY heavy. A picnic table would require a couple of guys to move around. Ipe has become ridiculously expensive lately. Also, if you do get a piece that wants to splinter, the splinters are like a high grade hyperdermic needle...absolutely painful!

You might consider Ash for the table. Easy to work with, light, cheap, strong, and finishes well. I made this garden cart out of ash for my wife for Valentines day this year. It's finished with a solid color stain (Behr).

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Post by captbone »

Great insight thanks. Even the 1x4 are very heavy. Allers in Lindenhurst was great and even cut them for me.
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Ed Curry
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Post by Ed Curry »

I oiled my deck and it's a twice yearly maintenance item now. If had had to do it again I would opt for the gray. A carbide blade in the chop saw will last as long as you don't force the cut, same with drill bits. The Ipe tends to clog the flutes of the drill so if it's not cutting pull out and clear the flutes. I would also go with the hidden fastener system, makes for a neater appearance. I have half a can of end grain sealer left it's yours if you want it.

The splinters are killer!
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Post by captbone »

Thanks Ed. I got some Epoxy to seal the ends but I will surely take your advice for drilling. I will let it go grey gracefully.
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PeterPalmieri
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Post by PeterPalmieri »

You plan on mounting the old fighting chair on the dock?

I'd love to check out the 25 when she's in!
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Post by captbone »

Thats the long term goal. I am thinking of mounting the chair on the end of a floating dock now for Snappers. We will have to get together over the summer. I bumped into ED in Hemlock Cove last season.

I love Joe's California FBC to pilothouse conversion because it makes me less of a heretic.

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Post by mike ohlstein »

And don't burn the scrap Ipe in your fireplace. Black tar will ooozzzeeee out of the ends and stain anything it touches.

Guess how I know that......
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bob lico
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Post by bob lico »

peter here is a pie table in my boat. the floorboards,doors, and draws all have a pie border . the pie is miter so there are no end grain to deal with.
we have a living legend on the method to prepare pie for stain,varnish. i listen to every thing he said and never had a problem. this pie table has seen the children doing arts and craft with crayons,markers and cutting out paper designed . buju come forward!!!
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bob lico
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Post by bob lico »

the floorboards with Ipe border.thats funny the mac misspelled Ipe because it is not in the computer!
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Post by PeterPalmieri »

JR love the boat. The seacraft got a new to him rebuilt motor. I think the whole boat is coming apart and likely won't see the water this year.

Bob looks great, while that may be a simple project for some around here that's beyond my capabilities. Gutted half of my second floor, new bathroom, closets and hallway, not done yet. Hopefully will build a decent outdoor table over the summer. Would love to build a new dinette and galley but it's well beyond my current capabilities. I am determined to learn more and get to that level and teach the kids along the way.
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bob lico
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Post by bob lico »

peter the table is just regular Ipe deck planking . i miter a border around table and use a round over bit on the router . i prep. with alcohol and acotone and then varnished. maybe a days work including the multiple 10minute per coat varnish jobs.
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TailhookTom
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Post by TailhookTom »

CaptBone is that a notched transom and an outboard?????? Oh, dear Lord, what have you done, you heretic!!!!

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Post by Tony Meola »

bob lico wrote:peter the table is just regular Ipe deck planking . i miter a border around table and use a round over bit on the router . i prep. with alcohol and acotone and then varnished. maybe a days work including the multiple 10minute per coat varnish jobs.
Bob

Giving a table like that a go would be interesting. Did you use biscuits to join the boards? Also sorry I am a novice, I am not sure I follow you when you say you miter the edges. Please explain.
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Joe E
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Post by Joe E »

Miter, means to cut a 45 on each end where the perimeter board comes together to form a 90, 8 cuts total. Then it looks like Bob used a 1/4 bit to router the top bottom to make a beautiful table

You can do anything you put your mind too. Practice, patience, and good tool's make a huge difference in the quality of your work, Measure twice cut once!
captbone, beautiful boat!
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bob lico
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Post by bob lico »

Like joe E said I took left. Over cuts from decking and biscuit. The. Planks together , very easy operation the biscuit cutter does all the work. Glue together after wiping down with alcohol /acetone . I purchase a 11/2" round over bit and ran it around the 11/2 "45 degree perimeter t hat was glue on before hand.very sturdy table that drops down to form bed for the children.
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Post by bob lico »

Peter interesting to note. See that contour or reveal as a carpenter would call it at the bottom of the inside of windshield .one half of that semicircle were the windshield meets the deck took four times the amount of time then that hold table!!
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Post by Tony Meola »

Ok sorry now I see it. Mitered the corners. Thought Bob did some thing special all the way around the edge. Just put an edge on it. Got it.
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Marlin
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Ipe

Post by Marlin »

Bob did u use epoxy to glue the table together ,would u use epoxy to secure the bungs,where can the end sealer be purchased ,about to do a large deck and want to glue the treads together to get the width/look I want, if I vacumn clamp the tread pieces together is it still necessary to biscuit them
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bob lico
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Post by bob lico »

Marlin making a table is far different than a deck. I wanted the seams perfect so I used a biscuit cuter like every 4" and epoxy together ,no bungs I used to boards under ,per drilled and. Used stainless screws (deck screws with square drive.) the border is a 2X2"Ipe biscuit into end grain miter in corners glue with marine glue and bar clamps . When dry I ran router one way then the other with round over bit.i did not try to go around corners with router. Ipe no big deal just clean with acetone then alcohol. The floorboards are so damn strong compare to the crap aluminum you can just drop boards into place and movement has no effect what so ever on edges of floorboards,cabinets,and draws like the two big ones under the saloon benches.
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Ed Curry
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Post by Ed Curry »

I had problems with epoxy over the Ipe. The Ipe has a very weird grain to it, almost like lizard scales. After a few years the epoxy would start to lift and peel. I've been using oil ever since
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