hey giff.....and any other surfers.
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hey giff.....and any other surfers.
this is my equivalent of your shot with kelly. the board is my 8'2" billy hamilton (laird's dad) gun. i got by far my most memorable wave in montauk while riding it.
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JohnCranston
- Senior Member
- Posts: 737
- Joined: Jul 8th, '06, 17:50
- Location: Spring, TX; Freeport TX
Randall,
Man, you really kill me with the pics! What the hell's going on? Throw me a bone and give me a little verbage now on then, pal...just kidding with you. I haven't paddled out in 20 years or so, but, I think that I'm ready. We used to surf up and down the Tx coast and all over Mx, and I'm getting a little bored in life and want to revisit some of my old hobbies. I've got a neighbor that surfs all of the Tx competitions and wants to be my coach. It's time to wax up the Dewey Weber long board and give it a whirl. Thanks Randall, this old goofy foot is finally motivated.
John.
Man, you really kill me with the pics! What the hell's going on? Throw me a bone and give me a little verbage now on then, pal...just kidding with you. I haven't paddled out in 20 years or so, but, I think that I'm ready. We used to surf up and down the Tx coast and all over Mx, and I'm getting a little bored in life and want to revisit some of my old hobbies. I've got a neighbor that surfs all of the Tx competitions and wants to be my coach. It's time to wax up the Dewey Weber long board and give it a whirl. Thanks Randall, this old goofy foot is finally motivated.
John.
I'll never ruin a $50 buzz with a $4 sandwich
ok john ...i'll tell you the story of this board and one wave. no pictures except in your mind. it was about 15 years ago when i would still paddle out on a day like today (montauk buoy 16 +). it was a hurricane swell and my friend gerry and i wanted to surf the rock reef way outside right off the point. we wanted to surf the rights but paddling out on the east side looked impossible....at least for me. paddling all the way outside and then east didnt look to good either so we paddled out from the west side of the point in the first cove. we tried to cut across the point about two thirds of the way out in an area where the wave backs off for a spell before reforming into a slightly smaller but far more powerful shore break before slamming into the revetment of the lighthouse.
and we almost made it. we got all the way to the east side when a double overhead plus stepladder 3 wave set bore down on us. we JUST managed to scratch over the first wave only to be annihilated by the second. i was driven to the bottom so fast i actually came back up in time to spin around take a stroke or two and drop into the third wave. it was an act of self preservation. gerry popped up a few seconds after me and ate the third wave as well.
this wave turned into "the wave" in 50 years of surfing long island. starting from at least 200 yards south of the point. it wound its way around the point and through 3 separate pods of surfers on the inside. i know the first bunch were surprised to see me and i had to yell to keep guys from dropping in. after well over a quarter mile the wave finally backed off. i was further out in the ocean then when i caught it. i paddled in and walked back to the point on the rocky beach........a one wave go out.
i found gerry on the point. he had let the white water carry him in. he had a no wave go out. but he was smiling.....
i think of that wave every time i look at that board. and i still ride it now and then. hope thats better than a photo and motivates you to get wet.
and we almost made it. we got all the way to the east side when a double overhead plus stepladder 3 wave set bore down on us. we JUST managed to scratch over the first wave only to be annihilated by the second. i was driven to the bottom so fast i actually came back up in time to spin around take a stroke or two and drop into the third wave. it was an act of self preservation. gerry popped up a few seconds after me and ate the third wave as well.
this wave turned into "the wave" in 50 years of surfing long island. starting from at least 200 yards south of the point. it wound its way around the point and through 3 separate pods of surfers on the inside. i know the first bunch were surprised to see me and i had to yell to keep guys from dropping in. after well over a quarter mile the wave finally backed off. i was further out in the ocean then when i caught it. i paddled in and walked back to the point on the rocky beach........a one wave go out.
i found gerry on the point. he had let the white water carry him in. he had a no wave go out. but he was smiling.....
i think of that wave every time i look at that board. and i still ride it now and then. hope thats better than a photo and motivates you to get wet.
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JohnCranston
- Senior Member
- Posts: 737
- Joined: Jul 8th, '06, 17:50
- Location: Spring, TX; Freeport TX
Randall,
Far out! A 1/4 mile wave! Sounds like that 3rd wave in the line up kept you guys off the rocks. I always think back to that wave on the beginning of Hawaii Five O. Where was that? Pipe Line, or maybe Sunset?
Thanks for the dictation, Randall.
John.
Far out! A 1/4 mile wave! Sounds like that 3rd wave in the line up kept you guys off the rocks. I always think back to that wave on the beginning of Hawaii Five O. Where was that? Pipe Line, or maybe Sunset?
Thanks for the dictation, Randall.
John.
I'll never ruin a $50 buzz with a $4 sandwich
Randall-----that was a good story. kind of like listening to the game on radio vs watching it. I think I got a better visual that any pix.
16 foot on the buoy today...I should have bunked work.
John-- TSJ has a good article on Texas surfing. I thinks its from January...just read it again because it was th only thing kicking around my car that I could read while killing time in the doc's office. You guys got a pretty good thing going on donw there.....enjoy!
16 foot on the buoy today...I should have bunked work.
John-- TSJ has a good article on Texas surfing. I thinks its from January...just read it again because it was th only thing kicking around my car that I could read while killing time in the doc's office. You guys got a pretty good thing going on donw there.....enjoy!
Giff
its huge again today...double overhead plus. yesterday was rare as it was onshore on both the north, east, and south sides of montauk. variable out of the east wind blowing to 30. i did a recon of the north side looking for the head high slightly over head gem you some times find. ixnay.
i think the original wave for hawaii 5-0 was inside sunset...not sure though.
BTW the spots in the story are outside alamo rights (200 yds SE of the lighthouse), ...to north bar (NE of the lighthouse)to well past concession stands, half way to shagwong (the next point). google map the point and you will get the idea.
i think the original wave for hawaii 5-0 was inside sunset...not sure though.
BTW the spots in the story are outside alamo rights (200 yds SE of the lighthouse), ...to north bar (NE of the lighthouse)to well past concession stands, half way to shagwong (the next point). google map the point and you will get the idea.
opunui, thanks...i had heard ala moana and sunset but was never sure. the take off spot in my story is named after the spot on the south shore of oahu. everyone just calls it alamo now. its a big deep water A frame that breaks on a rock reef way outside. thats big by local standards.
the first time i paddled out to a south shore spot i couldn't stop looking at the mosaic on the side of hilton hawaiian village. i had seen it so many times in the surf mags growing up it blew me away to be in a line up and looking at the real thing. you would think "diamond head", but not for me. funny how that works.
the first time i paddled out to a south shore spot i couldn't stop looking at the mosaic on the side of hilton hawaiian village. i had seen it so many times in the surf mags growing up it blew me away to be in a line up and looking at the real thing. you would think "diamond head", but not for me. funny how that works.
bobby..its been 25 years and i still see it plain as day. my girlfriend and i spent two weeks in a flop hotel in china town and i surfed the town breaks every day. i even surfed the west side a bunch. dark as a raisin, crew cut and i knew enough to keep my mouth shut. even got some waves at makaha.
went to kauai for awhile then came back and did some north shore.....some low end north shore. no illusions of charging big pipe or wiamea.
went to kauai for awhile then came back and did some north shore.....some low end north shore. no illusions of charging big pipe or wiamea.
Randall,
Every Thanksgiving we have dinner at Mark Foo's sisters house,i think you remember Mark from the break at Mavericks where he lost his life.Billy and his wife fly in from Kauai and thats my only time i get to see him these days.
I will show him the pic's of your gun and see if he remembers.
p.s Sunset breaks right so when you see Hawaii5-0 you will see a left breaking wave.
Every Thanksgiving we have dinner at Mark Foo's sisters house,i think you remember Mark from the break at Mavericks where he lost his life.Billy and his wife fly in from Kauai and thats my only time i get to see him these days.
I will show him the pic's of your gun and see if he remembers.
p.s Sunset breaks right so when you see Hawaii5-0 you will see a left breaking wave.
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1977 Bertram FBC 1688 M77L
1977 Bertram FBC 1688 M77L
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