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carl as i indicated ,if you put the tower thru the hull and go aground the rudder acting as a huge lever will rip that tower forward and put a 3" hole thru the bottom of the boat and number two the bearing you indicate (in dark green ) is delrin composite and definitely will not offer much protection against shear force . -----------throw away the instructions and use your head !!!!!

Yeah...I'm lost.

I prefer to read the instructions before I toss them. In any case, I still think we are mostly saying the same thing.
The top of Rudder Post (tower) is supported by a well-built rudder shelf. The Top of rudder shaft is additionally supported by a heavy-duty bearing (pillar/pillow/flange bearing) tying the upper rudder shaft to the rudder shelf.

All good, as I have my old stock bronze rudder ports with flax packing with no plans on changing.

Carl,

I don't know what flax is, I assume it is this string/cord like material that you pack inside the nut and stops the water intrusion.

If it is this one, I have the same material and when I launch the boat there is water coming into the bilge, in the beginning quite significant and progressively lesser and lesser, until after a couple of weeks it stops or becomes insignificant. I tried to tighten the nut by 1/4 turn and it helps but it doesn't stop the water completely.

Does this story sound familiar to you?

Yes, Yannis Flax Packing is the natural waxy rope inserted into the packing gland. Yes, it may leak a little heavy when boat first goes in the water. Yes if leaking heavy, snugging up the nut 1/4 turn should slow it down. The Prop shaft "should" drip a couple of drops every minute or so, rudders can be tightened right at the no-drip stage, as the drip is a sign the gland is being lubricated with the water...which is needed for a fast turning prop shaft, not so much for rudder shaft.

If the drip is excessive and tightening does not last long, there is a good chance the packing needs attention. The fix could be as simple as adding a ring of packing as it does wear away, or pull all the old worn stuff out, cleaning the gland, inspecting shaft, and replacing if good. A pitted or grooved shaft will not seal properly nor will a bent shaft wobbling around.

Some say there is better materials that can be used that will not leak, and some do work very well, some also scar the shaft, others tighten too much causing premature shaft wear as just tighten enough to stop the drip can mean different things to people. Me I never did mind the occasional drip...some cannot relax with a little water in the bilge. Me...a little doesn't bother me. Boy lots to say about nothing...I hope it warms up soon, I'd like to get back to helm window project.

....and I got to purchase two new turbos and solve the solar panel placement without an arch this time, plus install all gauges and steering wheel on new frame...
I’d rather work on a window frame !!

...two new turbos. Ok, no more complaints from me.

Yanmar charges €1950 + 24% tax each....

+24% tax...

I love it when people throw out the term Free regarding government benefits and assistance. Whatever it is that has been claimed to be free is always paid for somewhere, somehow, someway, and in my experience usually by those who work (have worked) very hard for "their" money.

Sorry, a side rant on a sore point.

That’s the VAT , Carl.

There are two or three different percentages, depending on the product/service type.

Varies from a low of around 6% (food, other necessities), a median 10-15% and a high of 18-24% (luxury items, alcohol, etc), all over Europe, in every country.
And as you very well explain, out of it you can benefit in other sectors, like health care, where you may have an open heart surgery for almost free, or other social benefits.

So probably the turbo is a luxury item!

Yes, I am familiar with the Value Added Tax, we used to ship a good amount of merchandise overseas.
Let me ask you, are you getting 24% Added Value with those Turbo's? Sorry, don't answer...I do get the idea behind it all and don't want to turn this into a political, governmental thing.

I was looking at Bertram Society on Facebook, saw an Express (Pal O Mine) with upgraded rudders that looked a bit far back. It had a comment about fixed trim tabs n I started to wonder if tabs or cavitation plate. Well Wonder no more as I moved down and saw the following:


Facebook February 29th

Marshall RitchieAuthor
Top Contributor
Kenny Kieding we put those in after moving the Cummins 6BTAs back a few inches, the larger rudders and 4 blade props "sucked" air down around the rudders above 2000 RPM. Simple fix for cavitation. Did it 15 years ago...

Carl

I wonder if they shortened the shaft to keep the props positioned as when original or if they moved the props back. I have a feeling they moved the props back, and that's why they sucked in air.