Pulling the shaft

[Amberjack]

The compression collar on my starboard shaft needs to be replaced when I haul the boat in a couple weeks. It will take about 12" clearance to remove the old collar and slide on the new one. This will be a first time for me.

Is there enough clearance between the shaft and the rudder to do this without removing the rudder and are there any tricks to getting the shaft out of the coupling?

Thanks for any advice from those who have gone before.

[Carl]

Normally the shaft will slide past the rudder with wheel off.

To pull coupling is fun…first start spraying bolts and set screw with penetrating oil a few days in advance. I’m a fan of liquid wrench.

Hopefully you have a split coupling, if you do, loosen set screw and clamp bolts, loosen coupling bolts, drive flat screwdrivers or thin wedges, into slots.


Now you use a socket and longer bolts to make flanges into a makeshift puller.

Pull back coupling from gear and insert a socket between the two flanges. Socket needs to be smaller than shaft dia and centered. You’ll need longer bolts to span between gear and shaft couplings Start snugging the bolts together squeezing the shaft out of the coupling. Use a criss cross pattern.

This has worked for me in most cases. Other times with a solid coupling the set screw twists off and I would up using a grinding wheel to cut off the coupling. Some are able to get a gear puller in the space to remove, others a porta-power.

Another way that works extremely well, but I do not recommend is a shaft puller. Loosen set screw, clamp bolts and insert wedges if spilt coupling. The puller is just a big slap hammer (10–15 lb)that gets threaded onto the end of the shaft and you bang away pulling the shaft out of the coupling. It works great on getting shaft out, but can damage the trans. I Mae them for marine mechanics n yards…it gets the job done…but again, not recommended

[Tony Meola]

I will add one other thing to what Carl said, before sliding the shaft back, if you paint the shaft with antifouling paint, make sure you take the paint off the section of the shaft that will slide through the cutlass bearing. A smooth shaft helps it slide back easier.

[pschauss]

When I pulled my coupling, I used a flange puller from Buck Algonquin to apply pulling pressure on the coupler. That allowed me to hit the coupler with a hammer without risking damage to the transmission.

I was able to drill out the two frozen set screws with a left-handed cobalt steel drill.

[Marshall Mahoney]

I used a harmonic balance puller. There is some risk of deforming the coupling flange, but I never had a problem. I found that putting the coupling back on was actually harder. I ended up having to put a block of wood against the flange face inside the boat, lube up a cutlass bearing, and repeatablly slide the shaft into the coupling/block of wood...

Also, I assume you are pulling the boat. If not, the shaft anodes will likely prevent you from moving he shaft back far enough to pull the coupling.

[Carl]

If you lube the cutless, avoid petroleum products as they can react with the neoprene rubber. Often the rubber will swell n harden locking the shaft in place is what I’ve experienced.

Lube with liquid soap.

If you fit the couplings( have them fit) you can easily assembly in the boat, no banging required. Removal is just as easy.

[Amberjack]

Thanks for the good advice, especially for the warning about shaft pullers damaging the transmission. I applied Blaster then heat today and plan to do 2-3 more cycles of that for best chance of a smooth extraction.

It looks pretty clean for having been living under the cockpit for 20 years.



Carl, what do you mean by “fit the couplings (or have them fit)”?

[Carl]

Ugh...a long solid coupling.

Almost too long to be standard unless you have a double-tapered shaft...although the set screws would be the oddball. But maybe used to secure the nut. In either case, those screws need to be backed off.

Sorry off track-

Before trying to press the shaft coupling off, I'd suggest separating the two couplings for a peak at the back of the shaft coupling. See if you have a nut inside the coupling at the end of the shaft. The tranny coupling does have a nut, don't touch it, we are looking at the prop shaft and its coupling for a nut recessed inside the back flange.
If you do have that nut inside the "Shaft Coupling", you have a double-tapered shaft. You will need to secure the shaft from turning and get a large socket to remove that nut. Sometimes it needs to be a thin-walled socket to fit in the space. Once nut is off, the coupling is removed like a propellor, that is you need to pop that taper with a puller... possibly aided with a good robust tap on the hub...maybe a bit of heat. All in all, they are the best to run, install and remove. Just pricey and has little room for length error.

Fit the coupling means less of a press fit between coupling and shaft allowing it to install and remove easier. Solid coupling will still need force as that is what holds them on...along with set screw. Split coupling, can pretty much be adjusted size to size, with no play, but little interference as the coupling gets clamping onto the shaft securing.

[Amberjack]

Ugh...a long solid coupling.

Almost too long to be standard unless you have a double-tapered shaft...although the set screws would be the oddball. But maybe used to secure the nut. In either case, those screws need to be backed off.

Good eye Carl, it is a double tapered shaft. The flange separated easily although the nut inside the coupling was really tight and took a portapower to break it loose. Nothing damaged and the shaft came right out as I had put it though a couple cycles of heat/penetrating oil. Now waiting for the second coat of bottom paint to go on before launch.