Cummins repower

scenarioL113 · Post by **scenarioL113** » Jun 27th, '21, 21:13

Looking good Jason, I think this is gonna give "Shooter" a run for her money. (I may have said that already but I am saying it again...lol). I think this is how Tony Athens wanted to do Shooter but the customer wanted pockets for the props...(and when the customer is paying the bill...)

I dont think anyone will pass this boat if you head out to the blue water...or any where for that matter. The only thing may be the 5mph zones or trolling as she may have trouble going slow enough when you need to.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Jun 28th, '21, 12:17

Don't forget to enlarge your rudders!

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Jun 28th, '21, 12:26

Rick I plan on making a bigger set some day when I get around to it. I just have to have some shafts machined up and grab some plate and I will weld a set up.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Aug 16th, '21, 16:49

So I haven’t posted in a while my family and I had COVID so I haven’t worked on the boat. This weekend I went out and faired the struts and ran all the fuel lines. It felt good to get some work done.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Aug 16th, '21, 20:01

Jason

Really looking good.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Aug 17th, '21, 06:15

She's coming right along and looking GREAT!, won't be long now.

Sorry to hear about the family and COVID, everyone came out of it alright ??

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Aug 17th, '21, 06:22

Thanks Tony!
Thanks Carl Everybody is doing good it was different for everyone but we all got through.
I am hoping to finish fitting engine boxes this weekend then move onto the helm.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Aug 17th, '21, 06:51

I'm really looking forward to the engine boxes. Please take plenty of before and after pics.

I just ordered my engines week before last. I'll be pulling the boat in a couple of weeks

John Nardi · Post by **John Nardi** » Aug 17th, '21, 07:47

Outstanding Refit...I am only thinking that maybe you should have beefed up the engine beds??

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Aug 17th, '21, 08:10

John I went back-and-forth with myself on this as well but I have seen guys just lag bolt into the original mahagony sisters that are only bolted to the stringers and have no issues. My mounts sit low on the stringers I lowered the motors way down. So I was thinking I would be fine. If you look at SeaBoard marine all their repower projects are done with the 1/2” structural aluminum angle that I used. If I have any issues I will just remedy them and make it work. Only time and some sea trials will tell.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Aug 17th, '21, 08:18

Rick I am using the original boxes I just have to trim them to fit the new bulked and make some new gutter supports as the wood ones are rotten I will be using black starboard for these so they don’t rot again.

scenarioL113 · Post by **scenarioL113** » Aug 17th, '21, 09:00

Snipe wrote: ↑Aug 17th, '21, 08:10 John I went back-and-forth with myself on this as well but I have seen guys just lag bolt into the original mahagony sisters that are only bolted to the stringers and have no issues. My mounts sit low on the stringers I lowered the motors way down. So I was thinking I would be fine. If you look at SeaBoard marine all their repower projects are done with the 1/2” structural aluminum angle that I used. If I have any issues I will just remedy them and make it work. Only time and some sea trials will tell.

I agree with you (Jason) on this. My "first" look was similar in thinking as John stated. But if you need to you could just run same thickness structural aluminum backing along the "entire length of the insides and then do something similar along the "outside" and tie them together...(thrubolts, glass etc...)
Its been working for seabaord marine tho, like you said...

gpl916 · Post by **gpl916** » Aug 17th, '21, 13:06

Wow, what an inspirational thread! Beautiful work. I hope to restore mine in this manner in a few years!

Currently I am just cleaning "Reel Obsession" up to get a year or two's use before tearing into it.

Of course I have no fiberglass experience so have a lot to learn.

G

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Aug 17th, '21, 20:04

Snipe wrote: ↑Aug 17th, '21, 08:18 Rick I am using the original boxes I just have to trim them to fit the new bulked and make some new gutter supports as the wood ones are rotten I will be using black starboard for these so they don’t rot again.

Jason,

I've got the old square boxes myself. I want to modify them with a gutter at the deck and figure out how to get a tighter fit. Send pics please.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 2nd, '21, 07:37

Rick I didn’t get to the engine boxes yet but I will post pictures when I do. Here is a post from
Capt Pat on the gutter for the engine boxes

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I started building out the helm here are a few pictures!!

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Sep 2nd, '21, 10:14

I have a question about where your fuel lines ran through the bulkheads. Did you put some type of chaffing protection there?

the reason I ask is that I have 2 spots where I need to pass my fuel lines 1st through an under deck bulkhead and 2nd through my deck running up towards fuel filter. I was contemplating using 1" PVC pipe as the chase.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Sep 2nd, '21, 10:17

nevermind - I looked at your pics again and see the 2nd layer of hose over the primary hose at all bulkhead locations.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 2nd, '21, 10:44

PVC would work I have seen it done I drilled mine on a slight angle in the bulked so I used hose it was easier and I had it lying around.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Sep 2nd, '21, 15:47

That pod looks great

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Sep 2nd, '21, 16:37

Did you figure out how to make that gutter that you have pics from Captain Pat?

It looks a lot like a combination of fiberglass angle iron -- https://www.lbifiberglass.com/product/fiberglass-angle/ and a custom molding. to get some radius parts on my boat I took a 12" diameter sonotube and wrapped it with shrink wrap then wrapped it with 3 layers of 1708. Once it cured I was able to cut it into 1/4 sections and use it to fabricate other parts.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6kExAD5Ja1j1YTqf9

Maybe you could figure out something similar that could get you the shape that you need?

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 2nd, '21, 19:16

That is Capt Pats post that I shared just the pictures. I get all the fiberglass angles and such from McMaster Carr I used some when doing my rebuild.
Pete thanks a lot I epoxied it together last night with west system six ten then I did the radius sanding today now I just have to glass and fair and do the final install. Best of luck in you quest for a diesel powered boat.
Sanded the radius into the pod today!

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Sep 3rd, '21, 09:22

great job. How did you get the radius on the corners of the coosa?

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 3rd, '21, 11:10

Rick I cut a piece of pipe to the radius that I wanted and used it for a sanding block! I will post a picture later.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 7th, '21, 06:43

Here is my curved sanding block I made and the helm glassed with some fairing on it.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Sep 7th, '21, 17:30

Dedication…that’s a lot of sanding with a small block. I’d have thought a router to knock down, then maybe sand.

I guess when all esle fails it’s back to basics

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Sep 7th, '21, 18:46

I have to agree. Man you're dedicated. You're going to have a showboat for sure.

Many thanks for posting the pics. Please post as much as your time allows. I'm pulling my boat on Friday to start the repower process.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 7th, '21, 19:26

Haha! It was a decent amount of sanding but coosa really sands fast! I am going to try to fit controls drill start and stop buttons and horn then install this week.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Sep 7th, '21, 20:20

Jason

I give you credit. She should be amazing when you are done.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 13th, '21, 06:41

I got to work a little this weekend drilled the ignition switches and horn into the helm finished mounting the Rollins controls and glassed it into the boat. Then Templated and cut some electronics panels for the sides of the helm so I can put some bigger screens in. I will hopefully get it all glassed in this week and start the fairing.

scenarioL113 · Post by **scenarioL113** » Sep 13th, '21, 06:50

Jason it is coming along awesome. Great that you are taking the time to take pics and document the progress. There are many things that you have shown in detail that will help others with their own upgrades and restorations.

I know how hard all this work is and I honestly appreciate you sharing your quite obvious vast knowledge

Stephan · Post by **Stephan** » Sep 13th, '21, 10:00

Jason-
Thanks for sharing this with such detail. I believe working on your own and outside, results like you are achieving do not come wioth out a tremendous commitment of time and effort. Great job!
What's the boat's name?
Best,
Stephan

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 13th, '21, 11:03

Thanks guys! Yea working outside does present its challenges but I try to push ahead everyday I have projects for the garage or inside the cabin for rain days and when the weather permits I work outside. I hope in the spring I can make a splash!! The boats name is SNIPE

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Sep 13th, '21, 12:02

Jason,

I just pulled my boat Friday at noon and its sitting in my driveway. We disconnected the old engines on Saturday and pulled them Sunday morning! I'm way behind you but I hope to splash the first quarter in 2022. Now if I can just figure out how to post photos!

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 13th, '21, 12:12

Rick I use my iPad and I have Imgur it’s pretty simple once you get the hang of it I can walk you right through it.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Sep 13th, '21, 12:32

Snipe wrote: ↑Sep 13th, '21, 12:12 Rick I use my iPad and I have Imgur it’s pretty simple once you get the hang of it I can walk you right through it.

Hmm, I'd hadn't thought about the ipad, that would be a lot quicker that what I've been doing. I'll give it a shot.

BTW, are you using the single button underneath the pod to kill both engines?

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 13th, '21, 12:50

The single button is the horn. The two keys are ignition switches.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Sep 13th, '21, 19:48

Jason

I realize we do not use the horn that much in an emergency situation, so in normal operation having it down low is probably fine, but would it not be better up top would be the better way to go? That would eliminate the need for someone to find it quickly if needed.

Last year I needed it quickly when some clown tried passing everyone while going under a bridge, and since the bridge is large enough for two way traffic, I had him coming at me head on. That called for the old what the heck you doing blast from the horn and quickly.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 16th, '21, 19:12

I was thinking that to for someone else I might put it in the dash I can always use the other button for a battery parallel. Not set in stone yet I am lookin at the blue seas stainless button switches I might put them up on the dash. The are nice back lit and have nice labels you can put on.

Craig Mac · Post by **Craig Mac** » Sep 17th, '21, 07:28

Not sure why you went with keys-----most of the 31's that I have seen have on/off switches and starter buttons.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 17th, '21, 07:33

Craig I bought the SMX digital displays and harness from Seaboard marine and this is how they came. This set up doesn’t bother me it will work just fine and having keys to take out keeps people from stealing your boat.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Sep 17th, '21, 08:23

As someone who’s boat was taken for a joy ride last year. I like the idea of having keys.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Sep 17th, '21, 08:48

Keys on a boat work just as good as the door locks...

For years I had the original pull up ignition switches and starter buttons. As Snipe said Cummins panel...or in his case SMX panels come with keys, so keys it is. So now I too have Keys to start motors on my boat.

Boy, do I feel so much more secure. Funny thing on the Express the Dashboard is held down by gravity...so a little lift to connect the wires and wa-la! Ignition is on. Or walk in the door, I usually don't have it locked. But when I do, it's a tough task to unlock (aside from just pushing it open, the crappy boat lock would give before the crappy bulkhead I think) Anyway, the sliding window on the bulkhead next to the locked door...just reach in and unlock.

My buddy locked his cabin door, he had a great lock put into that boat. Too bad the frame and door gave way as they forced their way in. It cost him a lot with that burglary...they didn't take much other than cheap flatscreen, a couple of poles and reels, some alcohol...but the cost of having that door and frame fixed was ridiculous.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 17th, '21, 09:11

I agree Carl locks only keep the honest people honest. But at least with keys the average thief would just move on to the next boat that didn’t need a key unless they wanted a Bertram

Craig Mac · Post by **Craig Mac** » Sep 17th, '21, 09:32

I do have the luxury of having a private dock behind my house----if I was in a public marina I would probably rethink it.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Sep 17th, '21, 09:36

I do not disagree Jason...I did leave the Key setup for a reason.

However, I'm not sure if it makes a difference or just makes me feel better.

True...no reason to make the boat an easier mark not needing keys.
Then again I am the 60-year-old boat that kinda looks...well let say Not New in the midst of new Carolinas, Albamarles and Henriques. More than one way to skin a cat.

Amberjack · Post by **Amberjack** » Sep 17th, '21, 13:20

Good arguments for and against keys but if you do have ignition keys be sure they are where you need them when you need them.

Several years ago we were at anchor in Reid Harbor, a really snug anchorage, when a micro-burst squall came through. It went from 5-10 K to 35 K in about 15 seconds but we were snugged down and well anchored. Then a 70 footer blew past dragging his anchor through the anchorage which must have tripped ours because all of a sudden we were under way and dragging our anchor. Snug equals tight and we were heading for a rock wall about 50' away. I managed to get up onto the bridge, flip the bridge canvas up, fire up the engines and back out when we were about 10' from the rocks. If I didn't have the habit of leaving the keys in the ignition when at anchor we would have been on the rocks for sure.

I don't know if the key ignition ever prevented the boat from being stolen but it would have resulted in a hard grounding for sure if they had been in a drawer instead of in the ignition.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Sep 17th, '21, 13:49

Whats better than key's....hidden kill switches.

I have it on the electronic engine controls on my B31. You can start the boat but its not going to leave the dock unless the thief is paddling. I have hidden kill switches on my other vehicles, some of which are highly sought after targets. Nothing like an airplane sitting on an unsecured ramp on a southern island in the Bahamas to temp a thief.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Sep 18th, '21, 06:31

When my boat was stolen they didn’t go into the locked cabin and they didn’t know to open or where to find my seacocks to open them. I think either keys or a kill switch would have been enough of a deterrent.

pschauss · Post by **pschauss** » Sep 18th, '21, 09:58

My battery switches are in the cabin. Having ignition switches at the lower helm and flying bridge has confused every mechanic and yard guy who has worked on my boat. I can pretty much count on it that the first time anyone works on my boat I'll get a phone call telling me that he can't start the engines. I have to explain to him that the ignition switches at both stations have to be on and, usually, tell him where to find the ones at the upper station.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Sep 18th, '21, 22:58

Keys sand battery switches in a locked cabin are probably the best way to slow as thief down. First they jump the ignition because that is the most logical place to start. Then when they get nothing, they have to break into the cabin and find the battery switch.

Takes too long they will not hang around that long.